ByronBlack
Established Member
Is that the 'cool' size of threads?OPJ":1g9019i9 said:
Routing Aluminum - DIY T-Slot Track
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Benchwayze
Established Member
CNC Paul":l86r6p9p said:
I was comparing the principles of how each machine functions. Not how they are fed. And I wasn't envisaging making a 'T' slot with an end-mill.
Having been put in my place, I will now shut up.
:lol:
John
OPJ
Established Member
ByronBlack":2wece45c said:Is that the 'cool' size of threads?OPJ":2wece45c said:
In case you haven't figured it out, that should have read M8 (damn brackets!). :wink:
CNC Paul
Established Member
RussianRouter":1hvv26m7 said:
George,
It is ali, I have some on a few jigs, I use Steve Maskery's nuts with it.
CNC Paul
Established Member
Benchwayze":1o3li441 said:CNC Paul":1o3li441 said:
I was comparing the principles of how each machine functions. Not how they are fed. And I wasn't envisaging making a 'T' slot with an end-mill.
Having been put in my place, I will now shut up.
:lol:
John
John,
My intention was not to put anyone in their place, I just wanted to highlight the danger of hand fed maching of ali.
ByronBlack
Established Member
I know Steve is a friendly guy, but that is really going the extra mile ;-)CNC Paul":19o3xz7m said:
RussianRouter
Established Member
CNC Paul":3unbacro said:
Yeah,you can't trust those foreigners.
There are in my experience two very major differences between a router and a decent machine tool - precision, and the strength/stiffness/ability to resist cutting forces.
I wouldn't mind having €100 for every time a piece of aluminium that i didn't fixture strongly/firmly enough on a Bridgeport milling machine moved because of cutting forces and was ruined.
It may be just about possible to rout aluminium using normal set ups, but i can't help thinking it'd necesarily involve only the lightest of skimming and even then that getting a straight set up that wouldn't deflect too much would present some real problems.
Here comes the old sliding table saw again. It's possible with care to very effectively cut aluminium sheet on one, especially using a metal cutting blade. It'd even probably be possible to more or less screw a router to the saw table, or to a magnetic drill stand. But bear in mind that a T track requires a T section cutter which swings a decent diameter.
Not to be rude. There might be reason to do it this way e.g. you need some very odd dimension, but why do it when you can buy the stuff so cheaply? Even if you wanted odd dimensions it'd probably make sense to start with some extruded section and go from there.
The other issue to watch out for is that the stuff is normally anodised, and for good reason - untreated alloy will wear like mad. It'd probably cost you more to drive to the anodisers than to buy a strip.
It might be worth thinking of something like cast acrylic (perspex) or maybe better still polycarbonate sheet if the aim to make something like a home made guide rail - it's easy enough to glue the stuff together.
UHMW is used for friction pads/guide rails quite a lot in assembly machines too, it might even be possible to buy the section you wanted although it wouldn't be all that rigid....
I wouldn't mind having €100 for every time a piece of aluminium that i didn't fixture strongly/firmly enough on a Bridgeport milling machine moved because of cutting forces and was ruined.
It may be just about possible to rout aluminium using normal set ups, but i can't help thinking it'd necesarily involve only the lightest of skimming and even then that getting a straight set up that wouldn't deflect too much would present some real problems.
Here comes the old sliding table saw again. It's possible with care to very effectively cut aluminium sheet on one, especially using a metal cutting blade. It'd even probably be possible to more or less screw a router to the saw table, or to a magnetic drill stand. But bear in mind that a T track requires a T section cutter which swings a decent diameter.
Not to be rude. There might be reason to do it this way e.g. you need some very odd dimension, but why do it when you can buy the stuff so cheaply? Even if you wanted odd dimensions it'd probably make sense to start with some extruded section and go from there.
The other issue to watch out for is that the stuff is normally anodised, and for good reason - untreated alloy will wear like mad. It'd probably cost you more to drive to the anodisers than to buy a strip.
It might be worth thinking of something like cast acrylic (perspex) or maybe better still polycarbonate sheet if the aim to make something like a home made guide rail - it's easy enough to glue the stuff together.
UHMW is used for friction pads/guide rails quite a lot in assembly machines too, it might even be possible to buy the section you wanted although it wouldn't be all that rigid....
CNC Paul
Established Member
Speaking as someone who works for a milling machine tool manufacturer (that may have been mentioned earlier in this thread..) I wouldn't even attempt to do what you are suggesting - unlikely to work at best, very dangerous at worst. For the cost of buying the cutters etc. you would be better off paying a few quid to a small subby machine shop to do it.
Si.
Si.
Benchwayze
Established Member
CNC Paul":28sch2kg said:Benchwayze":28sch2kg said:CNC Paul":28sch2kg said:
I was comparing the principles of how each machine functions. Not how they are fed. And I wasn't envisaging making a 'T' slot with an end-mill.
Having been put in my place, I will now shut up.
:lol:
John
John,
My intention was not to put anyone in their place, I just wanted to highlight the danger of hand fed maching of ali.
Hi Paul,
No problems Paul.
However, I don't think I suggested using the router free-hand on aluminium. I was trying to point out that a fixed overhed router, in principle, worked in the same way as an overhead miller. (I.e it spins a cutter working on material below.)
A router can be used to cut aluminium. Speed, rate of feed of the work and depth of cut are all-inportant though, and certainly I wouldn't want to cut a 'T' slot in one cut!
John
wow, wasn't expecting so many replies. thanks guys. oh, i'll not be trying to make my own after all. :roll:
just they way i am, if i can make it myself, why buy it. in this case looks like axminster will be getting yet another order from me.
cheers,
sam
just they way i am, if i can make it myself, why buy it. in this case looks like axminster will be getting yet another order from me.
cheers,
sam
studders
Established Member
If your table thickness allows you could always rout the slot directly into it, you already have the cutter.
RussianRouter
Established Member
white_sw":2jj39s4k said:
Miine came this morning and the rail is machined well but the countersunk securing holes need a bit more depth to recess the screwheads,it is Aluminium.
I'll not be having the convential rail going along the length of the table,instead I'll be having two rails going up the width of the table reaon for this I won't be using feather boards(too dea for what they are)as I have a clamping system that will be better to guide the wood though the cutter with the use of small spring and ball bearing rail guard.
Ah, just what I was looking for and cheapest I have seen so far unless anyone can show me some cheaper. Only down side is I have to buy if from Rutlands :twisted:
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psPro ... i?promo=22
16 feet is a lot of track though. Anyone in the Bristol area need any track ? I'd buy a pack of both 1/2 and 3/4 (16 feet of each) but would not need all of it. Anyone want to split it 50/50 ?
Cheers,
Sam
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psPro ... i?promo=22
16 feet is a lot of track though. Anyone in the Bristol area need any track ? I'd buy a pack of both 1/2 and 3/4 (16 feet of each) but would not need all of it. Anyone want to split it 50/50 ?
Cheers,
Sam
wobblycogs
Established Member
I'd probably be interested in taking half of each pack off your hands Sam. I'm just up the road in Gloucester so meeting up shouldn't be a problem.
Will need to quickly measure up first and make sure it will fit the table I'm planning on making for the router. Should be able to give you a definite answer tonight if that's ok.
Will need to quickly measure up first and make sure it will fit the table I'm planning on making for the router. Should be able to give you a definite answer tonight if that's ok.
white_sw":36seg8os said:
I can't see 16 feet of t slot track on Rutlands any more, I need a couple of pieces which are about a metre long.
I also don't know what gauge size to get (1/2 or 3/4), which is more useful for a table saw?
Eric The Viking
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The first might be because retailers do tend to change their product offerings over a five year time interval.Sheepdisease":27qq6zav said:
The second, slightly more serious, answer (from me) would be that very few people have ever made a "homebrew" table saw bench that's safe, reliable and accurate. If you do have the skills to do that, you probably don't need to buy aluminium extrusion T-track!
Bigger table saws use 3/4" slots; smaller saws tend to be non-standard (not 1/2"). I can't think of a reason, nor an easy way, to add a T-track to a saw table that doesn't already have one.
Anyway, you'd be better off with a sled: Do some Googling or use the search function on the forum for "table saw sled". It's an easy-to-make option that will give most of the function of a T-slot for accurate square cuts and mitres. Apart from holding down a guard, I can't think of other uses for a slot on a table saw (than a mitre fence).
E.
