Router plane cutting depth

[Silly_Billy]

I’m looking for a router plane that will make cuts down to 32mm. Does anyone know which router planes can work at this depth?

 

[Geordie Joe]

My Record 071 goes down to 32mm (just) but it has a Veritas blade in it from Axminster. I doubt the original blade would go that far.

 

[Geordie Joe]

I’m looking for a router plane that will make cuts down to 32mm. Does anyone know which router planes can work at this depth?

These are the blades I have

https://www.axminster.co.uk/blades-for-veritas-router-plane-ax821445

 

[Orraloon]

This one will for sure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_2a_FwjAgk

Actually just how deep a router plane goes is something I have never even given a moments thought but I guess near the full extent chatter may be more likely.
Regards
John

 

[Silly_Billy]

This one will for sure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_2a_FwjAgk

Thanks John, I might actually try that. Though I suspect you're right about chatter ...

 

[Student]

I’ve just measured my Veritas Large Router Plane and, without the depth stop, the cutter will go down to 37 mm. However, it is a tad expensive and, as previously mentioned, the blade may suffer from chatter at that depth.

HTH

Martin

 

[Silly_Billy]

Thanks Martin - much appreciated!

 

[AndyT]

I can't be the only one wondering what it is that you are making...

 

[Racers]

A deep dado?

Pete

 

[Silly_Billy]

It’s ... a ...


... clock

 

[Orraloon]

If you go the Paul Sellers method then a hefty thick bladed chisel would be the go due to the depth and chatter issue. All you invest is a bit of wood and ten minutes time. Failing that there are other ways to go.If your dado is wide enough you could chisel out the waste then clean up the bottom with a shoulder plane. Another way is clean the bottom with a paring chisel. Router planes are very handy tools to have but there are always more ways to skin that cat.
Regards
John

 

[knockknock]

It’s ... a ...


... clock

Are you maybe hollowing out an area to inset the movement, a couple of thoughts. If the area is large enough, you may have to excavate it in strips (keep grain orientation in mind), so that the router plane always has a good surface to register on. If there is enough room, can you first make a larger shallower hollow/mortise, then make a second hollow/mortise to final depth inside the first, cleaning up with a small router plane (sort of a stepped hollow/mortise).

 

[StraightOffTheArk]

Old woman's tooth will go as deep as you like (but that tooth might chatter!)

Carl

 

[Oskar Sedell]

If the cavity is for a clock, and the bottom will not be seen, you could drill/chop it out with a chisel? If the clock have to fit perfectly to the bottom you can always chop slightly oversize and then shim it to fit. Might be faster than a router plane.

 

[Silly_Billy]

Yes, I'm hollowing out an area to inset the clock's movement. I've drilled and chopped it out with a chisel, but was wondering how to get the movement to fit perfectly.

If the cavity is for a clock, and the bottom will not be seen, you could drill/chop it out with a chisel? If the clock have to fit perfectly to the bottom you can always chop slightly oversize and then shim it to fit. Might be faster than a router plane.

It's almost perfect, so a small shim should do the trick - thanks Oskar!

Better still, this saves me from spending money (for now) on a router plane.

 

[Oskar Sedell]

You´re welcome. I usually find the router plane slow, and use it only for final trimming of e.g housing bottoms and the like.

If you don´t want to buy a fancy one, it´s a nice project to build one similar to the ones Derek Cohen built and documented on his homepage.

 

[beechman]

I reckon your best bet could be to make a poor man's router plane a la Paul Sellers. It's ridiculously simple to make and brilliantly effective. The depth would be infinitely variable (within reason) and it would be a great way of using up an old chisel that's tucked away somewhere!