Rob C's demo

[newt]

I enjoyed Robs demo at Westernbert but there were a few issues that surprised me:

Rob spent a long time explaining that local gravity enables you to cut vertical as long as you plumb the work first. He then put the tail board in the vice and plumbed it then cut the tails at angle, I would have thought that the marked line for the tail should have been vertical.

He held my hand to demonstrate how little the force of his grip on the saw is, it was much much lighter than the grip I have been using.

He stated that 70% of the quality of the dovetail joint was down to the saw (LN of course) that did surprise me, what do you think?

 

[Alf]

Rob spent a long time explaining that local gravity enables you to cut vertical as long as you plumb the work first. He then put the tail board in the vice and plumbed it then cut the tails at angle, I would have thought that the marked line for the tail should have been vertical.

Can't remember what the explanation was for that; possibly just getting into the habit of doing it for the benefit of the pins, the angle of the tail not being critical.

He held my hand to demonstrate how little the force of his grip on the saw is, it was much much lighter than the grip I have been using.

Someone described it as like holding a fledgeling bird. Tight enough so it won't fly away, but lose enough not to smother it. I fear I tend to stray into crushing territory the more important the dovetail becomes.

He stated that 70% of the quality of the dovetail joint was down to the saw (LN of course) that did surprise me, what do you think?

I think it helps to eliminate the 100% that's the user first, and then the saw becomes more important. :lol: Although there's no denying a well set up saw will knock back the steepness of the learning curve considerably. Doesn't have to be a L-N though, honest it doesn't. The fact I felt the need to buy one is purely coincidental...

Cheers, Alf

 

[dedee]

I only realised how little effort was required to saw a piece of wood when I acquired a Jap pull saw. What I now realise, after having a couple of backsaws sharpened courtesy of the Cornish Saw Saw Doctor, is that the key to "letting the saw do the work" is having a sharp well tuned saw to start with.

I have yet to cut DT's with the sharpened saws but I do expect an improvement.

Andy

 

[engineer one]

must say that i agree, somehow you are forced to use less force
with the japanese and other pull saws (sorry for the alliteration )

whereas the push saw seems to demand more force, i
wonder whether this is phsycological?


but alf since when did you not give in??? :lol: :lol:

paul :wink:

 

[Alf]

but alf since when did you not give in??? :lol: :lol:

Er... Ahhh... Um... Can I get back to you on that one? :-k Oooo, hang on though, there's the TiteMark. Heck, I even had one to use for a while for that review and I still managed to resist the urge to buy one. See? See? But usually, yeah, 'tis true; I can resist anything but temptation.

Andy, now I'm wondering who's feeling most under pressure when you come to cut your next set of dovetails! 8-[

Cheers, Alf

 

[newt]

Alf I assume you are refering to the Titemark marking gauge, I looked at one and decided I could make one, I could bring it along on Saturday.

 

[Alf]

Newt, ooo yeah, that'd be great.

Tool Junkie

 

[Colin C]

Hi newt
Can you post an how to as well please ( from him who has not done one on his carving tools #-o )