Nope, Sheppach are lower than the top of the blade (just), which means you can (cough) take a tranching cut with the guard off and the riving knife in place (cough).Philly":2zpeqi98 said:DW
That is the "way" with riving knives, I'm afraid!
They all come like that now.
On my previous Nu-tool i had it removed all toghether, which was the only way this machine would work properly (also had those horrible kick-back springs on it). on my new EB PKF255 i slightly modefied the sitting so its just about 3mm below the blade, which is nice, as it still can hold the blad guard wenn in normal operation, but wenn i need to do trenching I do not have to take the knive off, which works for me.Philly":3ba77j7r said:Adam
Yeah, agree with you some can be modified to be slightly lower. You could even (though I don't recommend this, and yes I know i'm a hypocrite :twisted: ) remove it altogether, Although I DONT recommend this. Useful for certain types of cuts or if using certain jigs. :wink:
Are you sure that shouldn't be CHINESE HALF-BAKED ENGINEERING SAW?devonwoody":pe3rcl6f said:I DO NOT THINK THEY SHOULD BE ALLOWED TO CALL THESE MACHINES TABLESAWS ANYMORE. TABLESAWS TODAY DO NOT DO THE THINGS THAT WOODWORKING BOOKS STATE CAN BE DONE.
I THINK THEY SHOULD BE CALLED SOMETHING LIKE
"EUROPEAN C.I. TABLE CUTTING SAW."
I found a washer for each screw under the plate was about right for mine. I've never quite got round to making a one with a closer slot but tend to use a cross cut sled or a panel cutting sled I've made and there tight to the blade so not really needed to.devonwoody":1kldvo6x said:What about your cover plate, mine is about 1mm below the surface of the c.i. table
Did you have to pack yours up, and have you made closer slot for blade (when needed) on a substitute. ? I appreciate you could not have a tighter plate if tilting the blade.
Mine was tight and still is I would ring record and ask them they may change it for you.devonwoody":1kldvo6x said:Mite gauge very sloppy at the moment, so will have to tidy up that workmanship.
Depends upon the alignment of the knife, if flush with blade kerf on fence side then no. To much oversize though and it will jamb in the slot with hardwoods etc. that do not yield. ideally you need a knife to match each different blade kerf.devonwoody":1gwf96ui said:...snip...
Secondly, if the riving knife is thicker than the saw kerf, won't this cause the knife to jam the timber against the fence after passing blade and knife?
Yes.devonwoody":1wpoglov said:if the riving knife is thicker than the saw kerf, won't this cause the knife to jam the timber against the fence after passing blade and knife?