Reverse blade help please.

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Plodmore

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I see on line that reverse blades should project the reverse teeth above the cutting plate....no brained there. However I cannot see how to do this on my Ferm saw. The pinless blade adaptors that came with the saw do not allow sufficient space on the top clamp to get the bottom teeth above the plate. Is it as simple as cutting a bit off the blades?
 
Thanks Bob, still so new at this that I am trying to narrow the selection down to the few that best suit me (always with a little scope for extra special shine toys when needed). From the tinterweb these should reduce (or at least clean up) tear out but unless I can get the bottom teeth to get above the plate I will never know.

My Ferm saw pinless adaptors should be getting changed to a set of Axminster clamps today so that might help as the clamp holder will no longer be required.

Regards
Andrew
 
Not sure I understand your problem fully, at least its not something I have come across

I am sure you have checked already, but you do have the reverse tooth blades the right way up don't you?

I can see no reason to shorten the blade, there must be a reason for the problem to arise, shortening the blade will put the arms out of parallel

Do other same length blades fit okay?



Plodmore":fm9wxie5 said:
Thanks Bob, still so new at this that I am trying to narrow the selection down to the few that best suit me (always with a little scope for extra special shine toys when needed). From the tinterweb these should reduce (or at least clean up) tear out but unless I can get the bottom teeth to get above the plate I will never know.

My Ferm saw pinless adaptors should be getting changed to a set of Axminster clamps today so that might help as the clamp holder will no longer be required.

Regards
Andrew
 
Blades all the right way round but I cannot use the "spare" length at the blade ends at the top mount. I will post a picture when I get back home.

Andrew
 
Sorted. Changed clamps and reverse teeth now above bed. Not seeing any great difference on plywood (suspect the damage is already done on the way down) but "proper wood" is noticeably better.
 
Glad to hear you have it sorted

I would agree with your findings re ply etc

Although I find one batch of ply better than another for splintering


Plodmore":26h3tagi said:
Sorted. Changed clamps and reverse teeth now above bed. Not seeing any great difference on plywood (suspect the damage is already done on the way down) but "proper wood" is noticeably better.
 
I'm having the same problem. My Katsu scroll saw doesn't allow the reverse teeth to reach past the surface plate. What should I do? Why don't the manufacturers of these blades point this problem out before selling these to potential customers?
 
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