Reusing old cordless drills

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brihol

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I have come across a method of continuing to use old cordless 9.6v, 12v or 14.4v drills where the batteries/chargers have failed but the actual drill is still okay. I have a number of these from my earlier days in diy.

The conversion involves using a sealed 12v lead acid/gel lead acid battery housed in its own container made of softwood and ply (for which you also need a charger), a flexible power lead, and a connection to the terminals of the drill itself. Admittedly this is a lot more cumbersome than the original and does come at a price, but if you have a number of these drills as I do it can be useful because you can set each one up to do one part of a job with the correct tool in.

I think only the voltages mentioned will work (the 9.6 may not last too long and the 14.4 may be slightly slower) but the idea of resurrecting these tools slowly doing nothing in their boxes appeals to me.

If you'd like more details then send me a personal message.
Brian
 
Sounds like a lot of faff to tun a cordless into a corded drill, although I do see the ecological merit. On the whole I think I'd either just buy a corded drill, or buy some new batteries (assuming they're still available for the particular model.

I've also read somewhere about opening up the dead battery packs and replacing the cells, which would seem preferable if you really want to renovate old cordless tools.
 
A slight change of subject, but I recently had the 2nd of my two Dewalt Ni-Cad batteries go bad according to the Dewalt charger which refused to recharge it (the first battery died similarly some months ago) and displayed the bad battery signal.

I opened them up to look at how they were made but the welded connections to the plug would have been tricky to replicate.

I looked at the cost of replacements and was about to buy a new drill (not Dewalt) when I thought that I'd try out my model aircraft flight battery charger on them. It has a number of different charge modes and a cycle option.

Anyway, a single charge with the model aircraft charger has them both working fine again and whilst I haven't cycled them yet to measure their capacity, they seem as good as they ever were. The DeWalt charger likes them now too but I have resolved to use the model one in future.

Now I'm not suggesting that buying a £150 charger is a good way to charge drill Ni-Cads but the lesson that I have learned from this is that the charger can make a difference.

If anyone has 'dead' batteries that might check if their friends (or kids) are in to electric model cars or planes before throwing them.

regards

Colin
 
WellsWood":2f3hg9ge said:
Sounds like a lot of faff to tun a cordless into a corded drill, although I do see the ecological merit. On the whole I think I'd either just buy a corded drill, or buy some new batteries (assuming they're still available for the particular model.
I've also read somewhere about opening up the dead battery packs and replacing the cells, which would seem preferable if you really want to renovate old cordless tools.

That's the point. Very often these kits have be sitting for years doing nothing and are completely superceded, but the drill itself is still sound.
 
Now that's a good idea Colin. I'd never even considered trying my RC charger to sort out dodgy batteries - it makes sense though as for some reason I doubt the 'normal' quick charge drill charges are full balanced chargers.
 
Hi,

Your trickle charger won't work they are fussy about what they are connected to, I have a simple charger that works on car batterys that an intelegent charger won't touch.


Pete
 
MickCheese":3414lmrz said:
You've made me think.

I have a 12v intelligent trickle charger that I use for my motorbikes.
I wonder if that would do the same?

Sadly, if it works at all, it will most probably cause a loud bang and a mess.

The different chemistries need different charging techniques:

- Lead-acid cells are 'constant voltage'. They are charged at about 15V for a nominally 12V battery (a battery is several cells wired together, in the case of a car battery 6 x 2V gives the nominal 12V of the battery).

Trickle charging involves maintaining the voltage (at, say, 14.7V) and limiting the current so that only a trickle flows through the battery. "Intelligent" chargers detect both voltage and current flow during the charge, and switch to trickle mode at the end. It's also the method of charging standby lead-acid systems for emergency lights, etc.

Lead-acid cells like to be kept fully charged, and are damaged if deeply discharged (even the ones specifically designed for that - it shortens their life!).

You can get LA batteries packaged as 'torch' batteries (in 'C' and 'D' sizes: they used to be branded 'Cyclon' and have slightly different characteristics to the normal 'wet' cells, and are found in specialist industrial applications.

- Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) cells need constant current charging. The design of the charger system is (or should be) quite different to lead-acid. Weight-for-weight, they usually have smaller capacity than LA but can deliver higher currents at a given size) - this is useful for motor applications, which is why they're used in power tools (where current delivery is more important than voltage).

NiCd cells dislike being left charged. Persistent topping-up is the most common cause of cell failure. Tool batteries should be run till virtually flat (the point when the drill struggles to turn a No. 10 screw into softwood is a good indicator), and only recharged at that point. Don't let them go totally dead (I won't bore you with why).

Resuscitation techniques:

Lead-acid: those tablets from Halfords - they suffer from sulphonation ('sulfation' across the pond), after being deeply discharged, and if the sulphates are chemically removed the battery may function again. If it's a liquid battery, you can detect the failing cell (one always goes first) with a hydrometer. Just do the bad one first and see if it improves. Sometimes draining that cell and refilling with sulphuric acid works, but it's not for the faint hearted (and you need acid!).

NiCd: They are often over-charged by cheap consumer chargers. This will cause one cell to fail first, rendering the battery useless (flattening completely also causes this). The endpoint (fully charged) is marked by a detectable heating-up of the cells, and a duff one will heat earlier than the others. So, if you can get into the battery without destroying the connections, or (better) you can work out which cell is which from the outside, charge it and feel for a warm spot. Replace that cell.

You can sometimes revive cells by putting them in the freezer for a short while, letting them warm back to room temp, and recharging them. But sometimes they freeze and split!

A different aspect to cell failure is dendrite formation. Dendrites are pointy conductive crystals that grow out from the battery plates. They grow in the electrolyte, and will punch through the blotting-paper spacers used in the 'dry' cells of power tools (think Superman movies on a tiny scale). Once dendrites from opposite plates touch, that cell is short-circuited and useless. They can sometimes be literally be blown apart by a sudden short-circuit: charge the battery and carefully connect two fairly chunky wires with bared ends to the battery contacts (car wire works well), and just brush them across each other quickly a couple of times - there should be sparks! You're not aiming to flatten it, just surprise it! Charge the battery again and see if it has recovered.

Cells that have grown dendrites have a propensity to do it again, so the above is at best a temporary fix. It also will not work if the battery has an internal fuse (common in 'phone batteries and other similar appliances) - you'll just kill the battery completely and the fuse isn't easily replaceable.

Note that NiCd are nominally 1.2V per cell (not even 1.5V!) and completely incompatible with lead-acid chargers.

Don't get me started on Lithium hydride batteries. They're used in laptops, phones, etc. and they hate frequent charging. They do, however have a high power density (which is why they're used in that app.) - they work well for the first month or so then tail off markedly. In a nutshell, I don't think there is much you can do to revive them.

Sorry - the above is a bit scrappy. I'm sure Wikipedia has more info and probably more tips, but the above all come from personal experience. I used to rely on rechargeable kit, long before the laptop was popular and needed to know how to keep the batteries fettled. My dad also designed and successfully sold a battery reviver for the radio controlled model market, back in the 1970s - it worked by deep-cycling NiCds in a controlled way. Anyway, I think I've avoided most of the old wives' tales in circulation.


HTH.

PS: CAUTIONS: High-capacity NiCds in good condition can discharge almost explosively (you can weld with them, although I don't recommend it!). If you dismantle any battery you have to be very careful not to short out individual cells as they're often connected by thin metal strips that can touch each other.

The liquid contents of either type of battery is nasty too, in different ways. If you have one or more leaking cells, put the battery into a plastic bag and recycle it carefully. If you think you're opening a battery with burst cells, wear surgical gloves or similar.

PPS: A few commercial battery suppliers will re-cell the more expensive industrial NiCd batteries. They usually send them away, but it can be done for less than the cost of a new one. It's worth enquiring.
 
In pre-cordless drill days one of the very earliest portable drills was a B&D. The TV advert showed a guy in the middle of as reservoir dam drilling a hole, no not through it :) . The power supply was a car battery, with a handle, connected via a short lead to the drill, 12V I assume. Shortly after Ni-Cad cordless drills turned up.

xy
 
barkwindjammer":2sq6vh4n said:
If you have a new lap-top would it make sense to remove the battery from it if its mainly used with the mains cord attached ?

I think so, personally.

I used to make a point of flattening my laptop batteries between charges, and that worked well. Colleagues with the same model used to dock them all day with the batteries in, then find they didn't work on long trips. I haven't done this with the current laptop, as my usage model is different (the battery's prime purpose is as a UPS), but when I do use it away from the mains it's evident the capacity is a fraction of what it was when the machine was new (about four years ago).

Your mileage may well vary, mind.
 
If it's a lithium battery then no, it won't help. They'll quite happily sit there receiving a low charge (though the charging circuits are almost certainly smart enough not to charge the laptop constantly). It is worth running older laptops, with nimh or nicad batteries, with the battery disconnected if plugged into the mains for long periods.

The lithium packs have a limited shelf life, though, so after a couple of years expect to see the capacity falling off, whether it's been charged constantly, occasionally, or almost never.

WellsWood":zaaq55pu said:
Sounds like a lot of faff to tun a cordless into a corded drill, although I do see the ecological merit. On the whole I think I'd either just buy a corded drill, or buy some new batteries (assuming they're still available for the particular model.

I've also read somewhere about opening up the dead battery packs and replacing the cells, which would seem preferable if you really want to renovate old cordless tools.

With nicads or nimhs it's fairly straightforward. The cells aren't expensive, although the soldering needs to be done carefully. With lithium cells trying to make your own packs is a fast route to a fire if you're lucky, and explosion if you're not.
 

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