Restoring old 'oak' name plaque

[Paul200]

Hi all. My first post on here. Thanks for having me!

I'm restoring the name plaque for our new house. We think it's been hanging on our stone garden wall for about 20 years with no evidence of any care being lavished on it!

I'm no expert but I think it's oak. There's a lot of splitting and a patch of rot on the back. My intention is to sand back, rework the carving, treat the rot (and fill the hole?) and then treat with multiple coats of Danish Oil. Fixing battens to the back to stand it off the wall seems a good idea too.

Has anyone else done this sort of thing before? Does anyone have any thoughts on this please? All help gratefully received.

Cheers

Paul

 

[marcros]

That sounds like a lot if effort and I would question whether it is time well spent, given the splitting, rot and the need to sand and recarve the letters.

 

[Paul200]

Haha! Hear what you're saying but we like it and have a (possibly misplaced) appreciation of 'history'. The rot isn't too bad - just in one place and easily dealt with. It's a big old chunk of wood - about 550x300x40mm - and is part of the history of the place (the original part of the house is about 160 years old).

It also seems to attract attention. Since I took it down I've had a lot of 'what have you done with your sign?' from neighbours and passers by. And I have time on my hands now I'm retired.

Paul

 

[AndyT]

Danish oil is not really durable outside. So what should you use instead? I suggest you have a look at this really useful thread, in which RogerM is doing a real life trial of some of the best external finishes - his samples have been outside for almost three years now:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums...oil-or-sikkens-cetolfilter-7-plus-t59500.html

 

[marcros]

Whilst not the ultimate winners in the test, I used a couple of osmo products for a bench- one was a clear uv oil, the other was a oak coloured stain but I can't recall which. What won for me was that you could buy a small sample pot in these but not the others. 125mm IIRC. Much cheaper than a litre.

 

[Paul200]

Danish oil is not really durable outside. So what should you use instead? I suggest you have a look at this really useful thread, in which RogerM is doing a real life trial of some of the best external finishes - his samples have been outside for almost three years now:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums...oil-or-sikkens-cetolfilter-7-plus-t59500.html

Really helpful stuff AndyT. Thank you. I've used the Sikkens product on Iroko windows in coastal Somerset, so can vouch for its durability. My concern with the name plaque is that it is splitting and I thought a good drenching with oil would be good for it. Not sure if you can use Sikkens over oil - but I'm off to research now.

Thanks again.

Paul

 

[Paul200]

Whilst not the ultimate winners in the test, I used a couple of osmo products for a bench- one was a clear uv oil, the other was a oak coloured stain but I can't recall which. What won for me was that you could buy a small sample pot in these but not the others. 125mm IIRC. Much cheaper than a litre.

Hi again Marcros.

I've not used Osmo before but I know what you mean about being able to buy smaller quantities. To be honest I had considered Sikkens (see my reply to AndyT above) but the thought of having to buy a whole litre for such a small job put me off. On the other hand I have plenty of Danish Oil already ;-)

Paul

 

[Paul200]

Back again.

Just found this

http://www.woodworkersuk.co.uk/blog/new ... den-gates/

Helpful stuff in the comments at the bottom - definitely don't use Danish Oil! As our goal is to try to preserve the sign as it is, splits, cupping etc all part of the history, then Sikkens seems the way to go.

Paul

 

[Woodfinish Man]

I did my sister's front door plaque in 2001 and then again in 2010 using our Clear Woodshield a microporous exterior finish that dries to a satin finish and brings out the original colour of the wood. 2 coats should suffice recoatable after about 24 hours.

 

[Paul200]

I did my sister's front door plaque in 2001 and then again in 2010 using our Clear Woodshield a microporous exterior finish that dries to a satin finish and brings out the original colour of the wood. 2 coats should suffice recoatable after about 24 hours.

Thanks for that Woodfinish Man. A good recommendation. Are Smith & Rodger products only available direct though?

Paul

 

[JanetsBears]

I've got a front door which is about 7 years old and faces directly south so gets the full sun. It's oak, about 44" x 82" from memory, with two coats of Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus dark oak basecoat followed by 3 coats of Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 plus dark oak.

I think it still looks like it did when it was first fitted, but I'll check tomorrow in the daylight if I remember on my way to work. Not quite the same test as Roger's as I don't have anything to compare it with but I'm pleased with the lack of maintenance so far.

Chris

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I emailed a few manufacturers of oils etc. and had an interesting reply from a lady at Liberon. She said that Finishing Oil was not recommended for exterior use, Danish was good for exterior use on softwoods and hardwoods EXCLUDING oak.
I emailed back to try to find out why, but didn't get a reply.

 

[JanetsBears]

Managed to forget yesterday morning, but remembered today, so here's the oak door which 7 years ago was treated to two coats of Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus dark oak basecoat followed by 3 coats of Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 plus dark oak:

 

[johnwc812]

Hi Paul
Sanding the surface may turn out very patchy, especially where the weather has got in the cracks.
Why not try a wire brush (try on the back first) to enhace the grain texture and its age.
Then apply a not too shiny finish, perhaps a clear Cuprinol?
Cheers John

 

[Paul200]

Thanks for the helpful posts guys - been busy with other things and only noticed today.

Now I've started cleaning the sign I don't think it's Oak. But I haven't a Scooby what it could be - not very good at identification.

By chance the former owner of our house stopped for a chat t'other day and asked where our sign had gone. Apparently he commissioned it about 20 years ago from a local artist, Charlie Easterfield, who also created the wooden fishermans memorial that stands on Kirkcudbright Harbour. So I'm glad I decided to keep it!

The wire brush suggestion is a good one, John. Having sanded the back I was wondering if there was another way of doing it. My main difficulty is removing the grime from the carving. I guess I just persevere very carefully - especially now I know we have an 'artwork'

Sikkens seems to be the way to go - especially as I've had experience of it before. Thanks Chris.

I read somewhere that Danish Oil was OK for outside Phil, but wasn't so keen on having to redo it every 3 or 4 months.