replacement table saw guide.

[UTMonkey]

Hi,

I am trying not to be critical about the tablesaw I have acquired particularly as it was a gift.

Scheppach HS80.

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/scheppach-hs8 ... ion-p64143

I actually have to give the gift bearer some credit as it did match my requirements, small enough to fit in my shed and a well known name. On that score, full marks.

Two issues.....

The blade, it comes with a 20T blade which is awful. I replaced this with a Saxon 60T which has made a big difference to the cuts.

The fence, and this is the reason for the post. The fence consists of aluminium box section which is clamped at opposite ends of the table (which I also hasten to add isn't square).

So what are my fence replacement options? the off the shelf options appear to be more professional than the original tablesaw. Then theres the DIY option, what kind of design is appropriate for a table like this where the sides of the top are folded over.

Update- sorted the image upload issue.

Thanks in advance

Mark

 

[marcros]

Mark,

I hate to say it but I cannot think of much that you can do- every aftermarket or DIY fix needs some form of solid support. Is there anything on the frame that you could fix to, even if it is a longer fixing than desirable?

Does the fence clamp front and back?

Mark

 

[UTMonkey]

Thanks for replying, I have been thinking on the same lines.

I do have some aluminium which I could use to extend the front to create a clampable edge, but I suppose I then need to think about developing the actual guide. Has anyone had a crack at this?

 

[marcros]

This is what I was looking at earlier http://www.armchairdiy.com/2010/09/free ... t.html?m=1 if you could find a suitable place to fix the angle to.

But I fear that you could be throwing money away trying to make something of what you have! What are you wanting to use it for- furniture making?

 

[UTMonkey]

A little bit of furniture making. It is very much a hobby.

I like the fence, I am a little perturbed that someone saw fit to do that for what looks like a decent tablesaw.

I'll have a look....

 

[marcros]

I can only guess that the fence was missing from the saw because it looks like it should have had something pretty substantial. It seems to be done normally to add rigidity, adjustment or to enable jigs to be fitted. I have looked at it as an option because I want a small but very accurate table saw and can't find quite what I want. I have started to look at other options, ie the features that I after but where the fence lets it down.

The problem you have is that hobby or not, if making furniture, you want something that will cut accurately each time. If it doesn't, it will be frustrating, dangerous, or both. Note that most plans for these are for the American style long fence, whether that be good or bad. I think I would probably go for a short version, although if it is perfectly parallel and could hold some feather boards there may be some advantage in a full length one.

 

[marcros]

I have just seen the picture on your other thread. How close to square is the folded front edge of your saw?

 

[rdesign]

If you have a bit of birch ply or mdf and cut out a hole for your table saw to fit in snugly. this will give u two things an extended table top which is always good and a solid edge that u can connect a fence to. my preference would be mitre slots 2 going parallel with the saw blade 2 perpendicular. allowing u to make a fence that runs in the perpendicular slots use a f clamp to lock in place and a cross cut sled in the parallel slots. makes ur little saw much more versatile without loosing too much depth of cut if u use 3mm perspex for the base of your sled.

just an idea hope u sort something out 4 inches extra around all the table would make an improvement.

best of luck regards richard

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi UTM
Fences that relay on clamping both fore and aft are always poor. They never self-align and the only reason for double-clamping is that they are too flimsy to stay put with one. My first tablesaw was like that so on this point I know only too well what I'm talking about.
However, all is not lost.
If you are prepared to spend a modest amount of money, you can get a fence to rival a Beismeyer. I'm not joking. You need some angle iron and box section steel and a good toggle clamp. I have plans on one of my DVDs (WE7, IIRC, I'd have to check) and it is smooth in operation and rock solid. It clamps just at the front, on three points, so it is always self-aligning.
I don't have the saw in my possession at this moment, it's in store, but if you wanted to come over and see it on film, you are welcome.
S

 

[UTMonkey]

I have just seen the picture on your other thread. How close to square is the folded front edge of your saw?

Thanks for the interest.

Not very, in 12 inches you are looking at 1.5mm skew from the blade.

 

[UTMonkey]

If you have a bit of birch ply or mdf and cut out a hole for your table saw to fit in snugly. this will give u two things an extended table top which is always good and a solid edge that u can connect a fence to. my preference would be mitre slots 2 going parallel with the saw blade 2 perpendicular. allowing u to make a fence that runs in the perpendicular slots use a f clamp to lock in place and a cross cut sled in the parallel slots. makes ur little saw much more versatile without loosing too much depth of cut if u use 3mm perspex for the base of your sled.

just an idea hope u sort something out 4 inches extra around all the table would make an improvement.

best of luck regards richard

That sounds like an intriguing option, ill pop that one in the bank. Thanks

 

[Tim_H]

I am in the process of replacing the fence on my TS 200 with the Axminster band saw fence upgrade.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rod362802/

I have bolted on a length of angle iron which I will bolt the fence to.

Not a Beisemeyer but if you do not fancy making your own and you have somewhere to bolt a strip of metal or angle iron worth a thought.

Here is where I got the idea.

latest-purchase-kity-419-ts-t44827-15.html

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi there UT,

Don't lose sight of the fact that a table saw fence needs to be adjustable, in order to align it with the mitre-guide channel, every time you check and set-up your saw.

My first saw was perplexing me, because it wouldn't cut square, even though I checked the mitre-guide against the blade using an accurate square. That was before I discovered it was necessary to check the settings and set-up the saw blade, table and fence from time to time, to keep them all parallel with one another. Depending upon the amount of use it has of course.

HTH

 

[LSL]

If you do decide to go down the route of making your own fence then I would recommend that you have a look at Steve's version of a Biesemeyer style fence. I made a replacement fence for my Xcalibur saw based on Steve's plans. It is rock solid and has increased the accuracy of the saw. Before coming across Steve's DVDs I searched the web for Biesemeyer style fences that you could build and was put off because the few I found all required welding, something I have never done. No welding is required to build the one Steve describes.

 

[rafezetter]

..

 

[rafezetter]

I don't know if you have done anything about this yet but I saw this post a day ago and noticed while it's not a besmeyer it looks like it's got potential as it's being used by a guy I have a lot of respect for his homemade jigs n things, so if he's made it and uses it, it has to be pretty good - https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11116&highlight= if you study the photo's i'm sure you can figure out how he's done it.

far as I can tell, making it is simple by using a mitre slot track dado'd into a wood beam as the slot guide for the front to replace the bar that came with the saw (if it did) and you can see a simple screw handle he uses to lock it in place - although I would make the fence part itself more rectangular block to allow clamping of sacrifical fences and featherboards etc (he doesn't as he has other fences for such occasions) to ward off any twisting issues I'll make the slider and the bit attaching to the block fence out of 1 solid bit of UHMW (a tough low friction plastic) in an inverted T (backed with some bamboo tri-ply laminate flooring) and shape the slider part to match the mitre track slot... as long as I'm careful in assembling it parallel to the mitre slot it'll be golden.

and if it goes fubar I can buy the axminster one

 

[UTMonkey]

Thanks for the heads up, I have knocked something up sort of on the same principles.

Nice to know I am in the right track (bum tish!)

 

[rafezetter]

I'd be interested to see a pic or two if you feel inclined