Replacement spindle

[Soylent1]

A friend of mine owns a pub in the next village (how convenient ) and asked me if I could copy a broken spindle from one of his barstools. No problem I said, thinking it'd be really easy but I actually found it quite difficult copying someone else's work!! especially following the curve gradients. Is this a problem for other people or is it because I'm still a bit rubbish a turning?? I think the wood is ash and I used a skew for all of it.

Tony

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Copy turning is not that difficult if you approach it in the correct manner.

Turn your blank to a cylinder with it's diameter equal to the largest diameter of the spindle you're copying.

Place sizing cuts, (using a thin parting tool, no more than 1/8"), at the major points on the blank. In your case I'd size the tenons and the two small waisted areas.

Place the object you're copying behind the lathe in good view and aligned with the blank spindle, the idea being you will use it as a reference whilst producing the copy.

Turn away with the tools of your choice.

Don't aim for perfection - take a look at the chair your spindle has come from, you will probably see some major differences between the spindles which, until now, you've not noticed.

Regards Mick

 

[finneyb]

The best way I have seen for the amateur is the semaphone jig http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=1vkD ... ig&f=false

 

[Bodrighy]

I find the hardest part of this sort of copying is getting the curves right. For me the easiest way is to make a quick silhouette in cardboard and use that as a template. Don't watch Richard Findley doing it mind, guaranteed way of making you feel inadequate at copying, he's too darn quick and accurate at it LOL (Just kidding Richard)

Pete

 

[dickm]

I find the hardest part of this sort of copying is getting the curves right.

+1.
The only consolation, as others have said, is that if you take the legs off any really old chairs and put them side by side, even the "old boys" didn't copy to engineering tolerances .

 

[Brianp]

FWIW I think that's quite a good copy, nicely done.

I've heard people say of some work (I've done!) "sure a galloping horse wouldn't notice it" meaning that while something doesn't look quite right, it's not so different that it looks out of place - I'd say going on the photo you've posted that even a slowly trotting and well trained woodturning horse ambling along looking for differences between spindles on bar furniture wouldn't notice that.

And the two ends are different, to my eyes, on the original anyways, so yours is an improvement.

I'd agree, I've only done it once, making 4 squat legs for a toolbox for someone and certainly found that difficult. You can certainly appreciate the advantage of CNC machinery for some jobs... (Did I say that out loud?)

 

[Richard Findley]

If you're just making one, then, as Spindle says, measure using the original and work from there. The only thing I would say is don't use a parting tool to set the sizes for hollows/coves as you will end up with a square shape to remove and end up too thin.

More than 1 to make and you need a copy template or story stick with the positions of the details marked, to help repeat the original.

Those fingers (did it call them sema... Something?) are also used by professionals to speed up production. Problem is no one makes them any more so you have to have them specially made.

Mostly it's just practice, a good eye is developed over time and many, many turning jobs/projects.

Cheers

Richard

 

[Phil Pascoe]

99% of people don't notice. Of the 1% that notice 99% don't matter.

 

[Spindle]

Hi Richard

You're right about using a parting tool to depth hollows and coves - to eliminate the tendency to undercut I depth to slightly oversize and use nothing larger than an 1/8" parting tool. What is your solution, do you use a round nosed tool?

Regards Mick

 

[Grahamshed]

99% of people don't notice. Of the 1% that notice 99% don't matter.

And the one guy who does notice, and does matter, probably doesn't care anyway.
It looks pretty good to me.

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Mick

I usually eyeball hollows. If they look right they usually are. If they really need to be right I will check them with callipers as I form them or at the end - depending on how confident I am with it and just how precise they need to be!

Cheers

Richard

 

[Bodrighy]

Biggest problem I find is that things that look right on the lathe, horizontally, can look really off when taken off and upright so I have got into a habit of taking the chuck off if I am unsure and standing it up. Don't take it out of the chuck, never goes back quite right. Like Richard I tend to go by eyeball if not using a template though I am nowhere near as practiced or experienced as him in copying.

Pete

 

[Dalboy]

No one in the bar will not notice as they are probably too drunk :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[gregmcateer]

Nice job, sir.

DO you have to colour match it, too and if so, how's that done?

 

[Soylent1]

Thank you all for the great advice and complements!

I made a cardboard cut out of the profile and after nearly giving up due to the amount of wood that was getting wasted I finally turned one that was acceptable in my eyes. I do kind of understand that it didn't need to be an exact replica but my OCD got the better of me :roll:

At least I got some much needed skew practice unfortunately I will probably be scanning every turned chair leg I see, just to make sure they are all exactly the same (perhaps I'm the 1% that will notice, and I know deep down that it doesn't matter.....but it will annoy the heck out me)

Tony

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I find a certain 'joy' in examining an old chair that's been produced by a bodger in the woods. You can see the tool marks and work out exactly how it was made, warts and all. The beauty of it is that it looks right without consisting of identical components.

Regards Mick