Removing Chestnut Microcrystalline Wax

[HappyPixie]

I picked up a small veneered playing card box at auction and sanded the previous surface lightly (320 & 400 grit) because there were fine cracks in the veneer and finish. After removing all dust I put one thin coat of Osmo hard oil for a satin hard finish. It dried patchily and some areas were tacky until weeks later. It seems Osmo likes to go onto bare wood. Oops! My solution was to lightly sand the now hard surface and apply Microcrystalline Wax. Perhaps because it's so thin or because I was heavy handed with the 320 grit sanding, there are visible scratches now. I think I need to remove the MC wax and possibly the Osmo, probably chemically. The veneer is a little thin in places so I don't want to use sandpaper again. Any suggestions or have I really screwed it up?
Once I get the old stuff off I need to add a new finish. Due to the cracking of the veneer, I think it has to have a build to the finish rather than the usual Danish Oil that I use on woodturnings. I'd quite like a mid-gloss or at least satin. Recommendations?
Many thanks...

 

[Duncan A]

I think I'm correct in saying that white spirit will remove the MC wax, don't know about the Osmo I'm afraid, and don't know how to cover up the scratches without sanding.
Duncan

 

[ED65]

Depending on their severity you may be able to remove the scratches by careful scraping. If you don't own any card scrapers you could use a Stanley knife blade (knock off the corners for safety) or even the edge of a sharp kitchen knife in a pinch. Scraping will remove more wood but it's very controllable, although there's never a guarantee you won't go through veneer especially along worn edges or at corners.

If you want to remove the wax first then wiping with white spirit is the usual way.

But if you want to get right back to bare wood again you're probably best off resorting to stripper. You have to pick your stripper with care though as many modern 'green'/safer ones work more slowly and contain water, posing some risk to veneer. The fastest and most effective strippers are based on the old standby, methylene chloride, and if you go after one of these be VERY careful using it, it's not toxic per se but it is dangerous to breathe the vapours so you must work outdoors or in a very well-ventilated space for safety, and ideally wear a respirator as well.

Once I get the old stuff off I need to add a new finish. Due to the cracking of the veneer, I think it has to have a build to the finish rather than the usual Danish Oil that I use on woodturnings. I'd quite like a mid-gloss or at least satin. Recommendations?

Wiping varnish. This is just normal varnish, usually polyurethane, thinned down somewhat and with the excess wiped away to control application. Wiping varnish doesn't have to be wiped on as well although many find this convenient and you save having to clean brushes or rollers, which is nice.

Edit: any rags wet with varnish need to be dried flat or put into a glass jar or tin with some water in it, to prevent the chance of spontaneous combustion.

Because the varnish goes on so thinly a gloss varnish will tend to naturally yield a middling gloss or satin finish, as you build up further coats the gloss will increase. If you want it even glossier you can flat off and then buff/polish the surface, or wipe on one last coat of the diluted varnish.

 

[Terry Smart]

Just to confirm, practically all waxes are soluble in white spirit so that will remove the Microcrystalline Wax. It'll probably remove some of the oil too, as it hasn't be able to adhere to the surface properly, but it's unlikely to remove all of it.

 

[HappyPixie]

Thanks all. It looks like a careful application of white spirit should get back to the Osmo surface. If it looks like this is where the scratches are then I'll try meths and 0000 wire wool to try to get back to the wood. If the scratches are still evident then the scraper sounds like a good idea and - as you say - more controllable.
I shall have to look into wipe on poly. I keep seeing it being referred to in glowing terms so I think it's about time I gave it a try.
Many thanks again.
Steve