Removing a paper pattern from the cut piece

[DRM]

Reaganite71 has a youtube video "Finishing Scroll Saw Fretwork: Sanding, Dipping in Boiled Linseed Oil, & Sealing"

In the video he shows how to remove the paper pattern, after cutting is completed, by using 'low odour mineral spirit'. He rubbed the mineral oil on for a few seconds, left it for 30 seconds, found a loose edge on the paper and peeled it off in a single piece. I think the pattern had been stuck on using a temporary adhesive.

Is that the usual way to remove the pattern?
What is the UK temporary adhesive?
What is the UK low odour mineral spirit?

 

[redalpha3]

Removing paper patterns and residual glue can be a nuisance particularly on delicate fretwork. I try to avoid the problem in the first place. I prepare the wood and then wrap it carefully with either sellotape (clear tape) or blue masking tape (if I can get it). Then I apply the pattern using the rather old fashioned rubber adhesive (used to be called Cow Gum now Studio Gum). I cut out the pattern with my saw and then remove the tape and residual glue is removed at the same time. There are lots of other ways and materials for doing this. I've used Pritt Sticks in the past but find the patterns less secure. The hot glue gun works too.

Cleaning adhesive off delicate wood is time consuming but often depends on the adhesive used. As a last resort I've used acetone but you should test this on some waste wood beforehand. Rubber Adhesive is easily "picked off" your work which is an advantage.

Some spray adhesives are repositionable which helps if you initially place the pattern in slightly the wrong place but after a short time the pattern is set. I prefer the pattern to stay in place and use the method above. A pattern that lifts before you have completed your sawing can help ruin your work.

I'm never sure what is meant by "mineral oil". I am sure someone here will .

Regards

 

[bodge]

I use pretty much the same idea as PeteM and try to avoid the issue by using masking tape first and then clear packing tape over the top to help lubricate the blade and reduce burn marks. For glue I use ordinary "Pritt" type craft glue sticks on top of masking tape and if for some reason I put a pattern directly onto the wood I just use ordinary aerosol carpet type glue. The carpet glue can be messy and difficult to remove afterwards but as above, a quick wipe over with a rag moistened with white spirit/turps substitute cleans it up a treat and removes all traces of both pattern and glue residue.

I think most favour the aerosols of repositionable spray mount as a temporary glue, usually a good brand like 3M. I don't as I am a tight wad and can no longer justify the expense since my redundancy.
As for mineral spirits, over here it is just old fashioned white spirit, though I have never come across a "low odour" variety.

 

[Chippygeoff]

I use 50mm wide masking tape on the wood and then stick the pattern onto this using stick glue. I have found Wilkinson's own brand to be the best. After I have cut the pattern I just peel it off, simple.

 

[bodge]

Good tip Geoff, Wilko's stick glue, I'll give that a try. I usually use Pritt as I have had very disappointing results with some of the budget/own brands, especially Tesco own brand which was more like stick polish than stick glue!

 

[bodgerbaz]

I print all my patterns on to an A4 single label. Stick the label on to the paper, cut out pattern, remove excess label residue. If you find some of the bits difficult to remove just run a heat gun/hairdrier over it to warm up the backing glue. Very quick, very convenient.

Barry

 

[gilljc]

I use crafters companion repositionable spray glue (cos its much cheaper than 3m stuff) and place directly on to wood, if I have used too much and it doesn't peel off easily, I give it a wipe over with white spirit (not very low odour!), and it lifts like magic. The smell of the white spirit doesn't stay with the wood for long, once it has dried it is gone
If I use glue sticks, I would be more likely to use tape, as they can be difficult to remove

 

[Stooby]

I also use Crafters Companion repositionabe spray. It works really well.

 

[nadnerb]

I use masking tape, then the cheap glue stick ( I find that if you leave the pattern to dry for about half an hour it sticks perfect ) then I cover the piece with clear packing tape.
I found out by trial and error that if you use one of those hand held thingies for putting on the packing tape, the stretch of the tape will lift the pattern underneath when you start cutting. I pull off a piece of the tape and put it on by hand. Also if you are using packing tape I found that a good thick industrial one is much better than sellotape, I get mine from a cash and carry and its about 80% cheaper than sellotape.
Regards
Brendan

 

[scrimper]

I just use cheap and cheerful water based gum or paste, for plain work I just sand the pattern off with the stationary belt sander if delicate I just dampen the pattern with a small paint brush and peel it off. Never had a problem with this method.

 

[toesy]

I also use the same technique as Bodgerbaz

 

[bodgerbaz]

Nice to hear from you toesy. I am indebted to you for telling me about this technique which I now use all the time :wink: