Record tote bar

[digitalbot]

Hi all.

Can anyone tell me what the tote bar thread size is in a record No4. I guess that it isn't that old, probably late 60's early 70's but that's a guess as i'm no expert. On the cutter it has "Record. Tungsten vanadium steel. Made in england". And on the cap iron it has "Correct angle for grinding 25deg".
It came to me in a state and i've since got it to working condition but whoever had it before has cross threaded the tote bar and the tote itself won't attach beyond a loose wobble.
So I need to get a tap and clean out the hole the bar goes into and some new bar for its attachment.
Any suggestions?

 

[paul saunders]

Send it to me, if I can't fix it for you I'll dispose of it for you and save you the trouble of a trip to the tip. :grin:

Sent from my AN10BG3 using Tapatalk 2

 

[baldpate]

Have a look at this site (scroll down the first page for thread sizes):
http://www.recordhandplanes.com/parts-and-sizes.html

Unfortunately, this part uses the infamous non-standard 7/32" Whitworth thread with 20 threads per inch (rather than the standard 24 tpi specified for BSW on 7/32"). Older Stanleys use the same thread.

If it's just the threaded rod that's damaged, your best bet is to try and find a replacement. Have you tried using the other end of the rod - if that works OK (or better) it's probably just the rod. If the internal thread in the base casting is irreparably damaged, I'm not quite sure what your options are.

 

[Racers]

It might be the tote has shrunk so even with the nut tight it is still to loose, you can either put washers in the top of the tote or cut 3mm off one end of the threaded rod to sort it.

If the thread is knackered in the sole you can tap it to M6 and you will have to do the nut as well and use a length of threaded rod, you might have to drill the tote.

I have a tap and die for the plane thread a could have a go at cleaning up the threads.

Pete

 

[baldpate]

I have a tap and die for the plane thread a could have a go at cleaning up the threads.

Pete, do you mean a tap & die for the 7/32" 20tpi thread?? They must be as rare as hens' teeth! I'm always on the look out, but without success. However did you come by them?

 

[Racers]

St James Bay tool company did a group buy a while ago so I signed up and got one.

Pete

 

[digitalbot]

Thanks for the responses.
I'm pretty sure that the hole in the plane bed is knackered ( technical term ). Both ends of the threaded bar are chewed where somebody has tried to get it in and presumably why it was just hanging on and wobbling when I got it. I may have to go the re-tapping route as it looks like I won't be able to get hold of the 7/32 wit tap or die that suits. I do have a Stanley Acorn ( :lol: ) and i've tried the bolt from that but it's too big.
I'll suppose i'll just keep it until I find another one for a few quid.
Pete, thanks for the offer but it wouldn't be worth the postage.
I'll have to have a good check on things in the future before I decide to spend time restoring a basket case

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Could you stick the worst end of the bar in the hole with JB Weld or similar? The stuff's quite strong.

 

[Vann]

Or you could tap the hole slightly larger with a 1/4" BSW tap. As the existing hole is 7/32" 20tpi and 1/4" BSW is also 20tpi, that should be straight forward.

Then acquire a 1/4" BSW bolt. Cut off the head and weld/braze it to the top portion of the original plane bolt - so that you can use the existing nut at the top end. Make sure it's going to be the correct length before you join the two pieces #-o

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Mike Wingate]

I have re tapped with a 1/4" BSW before. Fine repair in both the cast iron plane body and brass cap head.

 

[digitalbot]

I can get a 1/4 tap so maybe that would be an option
The glue route wouldn't work. There is barely any contact between the thread and the plane body.
To think I passed up the opportunity of a pre-war Stanley No4 last week at a local show because it has a broken rear tote.