Recommended Blade?

[MichaelM]

My new 4 tpi skip tooth Axcaliber blade has been annoying me every time I used the bandsaw today. I noticed it was making a loud "tick tick" sound when I was feeding timber through so I had a look. There is an indentation where the blade was welded, and also it seems to have been welded a little "off" if you know what I mean. I do remember it making a little noise before, but today it was on another level. I need a quality blade I think!

I'm assuming this is what has been the source of irritation each time the blade touched the thrust bearings. It was also wobbling back and forth when viewed from the side while running.

I'm sure this isn't conducive at all to getting good results.

I was wondering if there was a particular blade that was well thought of. I read a few mentions of Dragon blades on the forum and might give one a go unless there is something better. Come to think of it, I could actually use a couple of blades, one for ripping and one for finer work.

As some of you will know, I'm new to the bandsaw and I'd really appreciate some advice. It has gotten a fair bit of use over the past couple of days, but I'm disappointed with the blade I bought. I'm sure it isn't doing my bearings any good, not to mention that fact that it is damn annoying.

On another note, is it the done thing to reduce the tension on the bandsaw when not in use or is it safe enough to leave it?

Thank's

Michael

 

[NeilO]

Micheal,
try searching for Dragon saw blades or Dure edge, not used them personally but they always seem to get good reviews here, I do believe one of our members work for/own Dragon saw blades

re tensioning or release of, I personally dont take off the tension of my bandsaw unless I know Im not going to be using it for some time, others may advocate this is a must, then other will tell you they dont bother at all as they are designed to be used under tension and possible damage/weakening of the blade will be caused by constantly untensioning/retensioning the blade on a daily basis..I have had no ill effects from not doing it, even to the point of leaving it for several weeks when I simply forgot to do it and didnt use the shop for a time..

HTH

 

[MichaelM]

Thank's once again, Neil, much appreciated.

I found Dragon on Ebay earlier, but Dure Edge I'll look for now.

I slackened my blade each night once I was finished. I must have went too far as I had to reset the thrust bearings once I went to use it again. Of course I suppose that could be down to not having it back at the exact same tension ...maybe...

All the best,

Michael

 

[OPJ]

I totally agree with Neil's comments and rarely slacken off the tension on my saw unless I'm going to change it immediately.

Michael, if your welds a bit messy, you could try cleaning it up (carefully!) with one of these. Just don't file the teeth, despite what the photo is showing! :wink: They're great for rounding off and removing the sharp edge from the back of the blade as well, which can dig in and run a groove in to your thrust bearing. :?

Dragon Saws are always worth a try, in my opinion. I'd recommend them to anyone!

It's also worth keeping separate blades for cutting straight lines (ripping) and for cutting curves. When you cut a lot of curves with one blade, it generally tends to wear away the 'set' on one side of the blade. If you then tried to use this same blade to cut a straight line, you'd find the timber being pulled to one side because of the uneven set.

If you were to do LOTS of curve-cutting though, I believe you can also order blades with an extra set on one side.

 

[MichaelM]

Thank's for letting me know to leave the saw tension as is, Olly. That's two votes for that, and I'll leave my saw alone in that department then.

I've been in touch with Ian from Dragon Saws, ...who happens to be a very decent chap, and I will soon be the proud owner of two new blades, a 1/2" 6tpi and a 5/8" 3 tpi for ripping. The Axcaliber blade cuts well enough, but that bloody ticking and the annoyance of knowing that soon there will be a groove in my new thrust bearings is making me real keen to see the back end of it.

I actually positioned an oilstone to the rear of the blade while running to gently try to buff down any high spots, but the fact that the blade wobbles as well makes that impossible, and probably pointless. You see, the back of the blade at the weld has a fair indentation there. I would actually need to add more weld to it to try to salvage the blade. Since it was welded out of alignment as well, it's probably more trouble than its worth.

My welder's banjaxed anway... :lol:

Thank's for all the help!

Michael