Recommendations for external doors joiners/supplier DIY pls

[Togalosh]

Evening Gents,

Although I am very interested in making doors I am not confident enough in my skills to make flat external doors & draught proof frames for my house.. so.. I need recommendations for a good joiner or quality door supplier/installer please. I would prefer someone local to Brum but that is flexible.

I tried a few yrs ago to find doors for my sister's house & it took many hours of tedious internet searching as 'solid door' searches brought up veneered solid core doors (which was not immediately evident until I got into the specs of each door !).. these were eventually fitted & the veneer didn't last a 3 yrs. I don't want solid core doors.

Or do I do it myself?

I have a Victorian terrace house with a stone step & draughty doorway on the front which has those stick-on strips around it but they are not working well enough & look $h1t besides - the gap is not even all around. The door is 4 panel & has real stained glass upper panels which are cold, unsafe & not secure. I do have a fair standard of woodworking skills; would you think it'd be achievable to install better draught proofing to the exiting frame (& buy a better door & fit it properly) ? Doors & frames seem to come together for the obvious reasons. I could get a set & use the strips out of the frames in the existing frames, no ??

There's main problem is that there's a pointed window & window frame above the doorway which shares the same framework.. it would be expensive if I was to replace the whole lot hence my questions above.

Can you recommend some draught proofing systems/websites with various systems - DPM strips in rebates ? I know SDS London & IMD.

(If you are still reading)

Any help, advice or recommendations would be most welcome.

Togs

 

[Mike.S]

I can't help with joiner recommendations I'm afraid but I would suggest you check out your existing frame first. Is it in good condition e.g. no rotted joints? Is it straight and square e.g. are the top rail, sill and two sides (jambs?) all co-planar? If so, then it might be that either the door has warped - hence the uneven gap all round.

If the door is straight, perhaps the door stops (if separate and not part of the original jambs) were not fixed straight or if built in have been 'modified' afterward, perhaps due to a sticky door. Stops can be removed and replaced - existing or new timber - perhaps with slots to accomodate better weatherseals e.g. Aquamac 63.

How about some pictures?
If your frame is basically OK then to minimise expense and aggro just look at a replacement door - whether you build yourself, buy 2nd hand (there's lots of excellent doors available from antique/salvage places) or get a joiner in.

 

[blackrodd]

What Mike says makes sense, can you post some pics?
Regards Rodders

 

[Togalosh]

I can't help with joiner recommendations I'm afraid but I would suggest you check out your existing frame first. Is it in good condition e.g. no rotted joints? Is it straight and square e.g. are the top rail, sill and two sides (jambs?) all co-planar? If so, then it might be that either the door has warped - hence the uneven gap all round.

If the door is straight, perhaps the door stops (if separate and not part of the original jambs) were not fixed straight or if built in have been 'modified' afterward, perhaps due to a sticky door. Stops can be removed and replaced - existing or new timber - perhaps with slots to accomodate better weatherseals e.g. Aquamac 63.

How about some pictures?
If your frame is basically OK then to minimise expense and aggro just look at a replacement door - whether you build yourself, buy 2nd hand (there's lots of excellent doors available from antique/salvage places) or get a joiner in.

Hiya Mike,

I will take some pics when it's light.

The frame seems in good condition, even after 105 yrs. I didn't think to measure the door frame for square or being co-planar as nothing is square in an old house is it ? ..the back of the house is at least 20mm wider than the front ..& it's not a big house. There's newer stops on top of shallower originals which aren't great but they follow the original lines/edges.. Again I did think to insert strips in new stops - That's a good tip.

Reclaimed door ? There's a good antiques dealer on one of my usual routes with loads of doors - what's the chances of getting a nice one that could fit - slim at best ?

Thanks for your help
Togs

 

[blackrodd]

I can't help with joiner recommendations I'm afraid but I would suggest you check out your existing frame first. Is it in good condition e.g. no rotted joints? Is it straight and square e.g. are the top rail, sill and two sides (jambs?) all co-planar? If so, then it might be that either the door has warped - hence the uneven gap all round.

If the door is straight, perhaps the door stops (if separate and not part of the original jambs) were not fixed straight or if built in have been 'modified' afterward, perhaps due to a sticky door. Stops can be removed and replaced - existing or new timber - perhaps with slots to accomodate better weatherseals e.g. Aquamac 63.

How about some pictures?
If your frame is basically OK then to minimise expense and aggro just look at a replacement door - whether you build yourself, buy 2nd hand (there's lots of excellent doors available from antique/salvage places) or get a joiner in.

Hiya Mike,

I will take some pics when it's light.

The frame seems in good condition, even after 105 yrs. I didn't think to measure the door frame for square or being co-planar as nothing is square in an old house is it ? ..the back of the house is at least 20mm wider than the front ..& it's not a big house. There's newer stops on top of shallower originals which aren't great but they follow the original lines/edges.. Again I did think to insert strips in new stops - That's a good tip.

Reclaimed door ? There's a good antiques dealer on one of my usual routes with loads of doors - what's the chances of getting a nice one that could fit - slim at best ?

Thanks for your help
Togs

As long as the door isn't a "silly" size, reclaimed door could be you're best bet, as you've said above, look at how long the original stuff has lasted!
Regards Rodders

 

[AJB Temple]

You don't need a reclaimed door to fit Togs: you need it a little bit bigger, so that you have some adjustment room.

In my area near Tunbridge Wells, there are plenty of reclaimed doors about. Unfortunately the reclamation yards know how to price for them as well! Common or garden stuff is OK, but good quality solid oak was running at over a £1000 for a door - and they all needed a fair bit of work.

Another option for you, as I fully get that you are not confident to ask your own door, is the solid door kits. These can be had with or without frames. You can specify a size and style (obviously) and then do the assembly at home. This is not difficult. Google it and you will find there are several suppliers. I have only ever looked for oak doors. Prices vary a lot between suppliers, but if you keep it simple this may well work out cheaper than a reclaimed door.

Adrian