Recommendation for joints in wide and rel. thin stock

[DuncanvdH]

I have been reading a lot on this forum, especially the hand tools section, and decided to join today. Most of my woodworking is boat related, but I have taken two classes in furniture making. My question is the following:

I would like to make a frame out of 8 cm x 2.2 cm thick mahogany. The frame will hold a 10 mm plywood panel covered with 5 mm teak strips, to become a floorboard for my little boat.
This means the frame is fully supported around the circumference, and it is not possible to see the underside....

Does anyone have recommendations for the corner joints of the frame?

I was thinking mortise and tenon, but maybe 2.2 cm is to thin? Mitered lap?
I would like to use my router if possible to make the joints, as there are more floor boards to make, each requiring 4 corner joints....

Could anyone of you experienced woodworkers advise me?

 

[Scrit]

Hello and welcome!

Does anyone have recommendations for the corner joints of the frame?

I was thinking mortise and tenon, but maybe 2.2 cm is to thin? Mitered lap?

22mm is the same thickness as many kitchen doors which are done frame and panel, so I think that mortise and tenon would be OK for this sort of joint - the tenon would need to be about 6 or 7mm so mortising out for them is going to be fun if you go for hand cut through mortices and it would certainly be too deep to rout out to full depth with a 6 or 8mm cutter, although you could start the job with a router and finish it by hand. Whatever you do make sure that you leave a horn past the end of the stiles when you chop out the mortises and saw off the excess after gluing up. I'd say there's probably little advantage in going for a through mortise when a stopped one, say 50mm deep would be almost as strong for less work. A couple of alternatives might be a loose tenon into two mortises or dowels as you'd get three 8mm dowels at 24mm centres in there very easily.

Scrit

 

[JFC]

Hi Duncan , welcome to the forum
I wouldn't joint the frame work as if the bilges fill with water for any reason the joint will be the first to fail . Brass screws on a butt joint would be the way i would do it on my boat .
By the way did you know you can buy the plywood with teak strips and the caulking (white or black) in sheet form . Could save you alot of work .
What boat do you have ? Any pics ?