Re: Lathe problem

[Garmin]

Can anyone advise me where to get a 25mm straight shank drillchuck with a 12mm drawbar and 120mm length.
Cant find one anywhere its for a Scheppach DMS 900

Thanks Garry.

 

[Duncan A]

I'm a little confused about your description.
- Do you want a chuck to hold a 25mm straight shank drill?
Usually such large drills are either reduced diameter straight shank or morse taper, or Forstner bits with a straight shank of 10 to 15mm, either round or hex.

- Or a chuck with a 25mm straight shank for mounting onto your lathe?
Your lathe takes a No.2 Morse Taper in both the headstock and tailstock, so loads of options around.
You could always look at https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/DRILL_CHUCKS.html for a decent selection of drill chucks at reasonable prices.

Duncan

 

[Garmin]

I know its hard to explain, I removed the live centre from the tailstock of the lathe.
This left a 25mm aperture, the live centre is a 120mm long straight shank with 12mm drawbar for winding in and out.
No attachments can be added to this live centre, so I was wondering if there is a drillchuck with a 25mm straight shaft
that will fit the tailstock in the same way as the livecentre.

 

[Garmin]

If I could add images it would help you see the problem, but I cant find how to do this, do you know how?.

 

[Garmin]

Are all lathes the same, as in taking a no2 morse taper
and is a morse taper not different to a straight shaft.
I think it has to be a straight shaft to connect to the 12mm drawbar to allow winding.
I tried Rdg but cant find a 25mm straight shaft with 12mm drawbar.

 

[NazNomad]

http://www.powertoolspares.com/pdfs/par ... ms-900.pdf

You've removed the live centre (part 45). This sits in a No.2 Morse tapered sleeve (part 46) which is wound in and out to advance the live centre by the handle and threaded rod (parts 47 & 49)

You're after a 25mm drill bit with a 2MT (No. 2 Morse taper) shaft, if I understand correctly.

Better to follow Duncan's advice and get a 2MT chuck and use a 25mm forstner bit to drill your hole. That way, you can use any sized drill in that chuck - cheaply.

 

[flh801978]

I think what you have done is removed the quill.. so place the part back in the tailstock and wind it back in carry on winding...it may be stiff ...then the live centre on its morse taper will be ejected
Then you can put a drill chuck in or any other morse taper accesories

Ian

 

[pickledegg]

For what it's worth: the proops 2MT drill chuck on Amazon is astonishing value... £8 I think I paid. Made in China obviously but genuinely surprised by the quality of it, probably not the best chuck around but for my purposes and I suspect most turners... can't argue with the price.

edit: £9 apparently: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Proops-Drill-W ... cobs+chuck

 

[Cordy]

Can be bought here too

 

[Garmin]

Thanks Cordy, but that not what I need, that one has a tang end and I require a straight shank with a 12mm drawbar thread.
This is proving very difficult, the live centre I removed from the tailstock is 25mm straight shank with a 12mm drawbar end. Ihave even removed the rotating head to see what was underneath, just the bearing and a small through hole that is not big enough to put anything else into.
Ther is surely somewher a 25mm drillchuck with a straight shank and 12mm drawbar which is also 120mm long
The lathe came with this livecentre and nothing else, no morse tapers or collets or anything else everyone else seems to have, I just want a 25mm straight shaft drillchuck with 12mm drawbar, maybe it doesnt exist.

 

[flh801978]

Garmin

slow down check what I wrote a few posts up
if thats not the case learn how to post pics of what you have

Ian

 

[NazNomad]

If you look at the link I posted above, you'll see what Ian is talking about. You may have removed 'Part 46' completely.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Garmin - please pay attention to the above posts. Yes, you can get threaded morse tapers - they are necessary for mounting in headstocks, though not so often in tailstocks. I have not yet seen a lathe that anything with a parallel shanks fit directly. You need something like

https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/cgi-bin/sh00 ... html#a2J6T scroll to (Ref: 2J6T)

You need to be sure of the taper in the chuck as well as the taper in the lathe.

 

[hawkeyefxr]

I am thoroughly confused here, pictures are a must i think. If you pictures are taken on a phone or camera they may well need to be resized for them to be accepted but that is easily done.
I an looking at my screen while typing this and at the on the blue hatched bar is upload attachment, click on choose file, find the file on your computer and click on it, when it has checked your file click add file and it will upload it. You can click on preview and you should see your post along with the picture.
The picture should be 256k or less, don't fiddle and try and get an exact size 192k is good enough. it is a very small picture, however when it comes up on the board it will be plenty big enough for details.

 

[CHJ]

Are we sure this lathe does not have a FIXED Revolving centre in the Quill, some cheaper lathes only come with a fixed tailstock centre.

If that's the case I'm afraid it will not be possible to fit a drill chuck in a conventional manner.

 

[NazNomad]

Are we sure this lathe does not have a FIXED Revolving centre in the Quill, some cheaper lathes only come with a fixed tailstock centre.

From the parts diagram - linked above...

 

[Garmin]

I thought I had posted an update, but I dont see it.
Anyway I have been an silly person.
As one person advised, there was a quill I think he called it inside the straight shank, it was so tight I thought it was all one milled peice, only after the examination I gave it second time around that I should have done first, did I decide to find something to knock out anything inside.
To my surprise it worked and out popped the quill allowing me to insert the drillchuck that I had.
Thank you to all that offered me help, good to know there is help out there.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Thanks for having the courtesy to thank people - there are people who don't.

 

[flh801978]

The quill is the bit that’s straight shanked with the taper hole that advances the drill or tool
Usually on a pillar drill but in a tailstock it does a similar job so i think we can call it the same

 

[Duncan A]

Progress without cost (or damage) is always a good result!
I hope everything else goes Ok for you
Duncan