Question about shooting board

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GLFaria

Established Member
Joined
21 Mar 2014
Messages
380
Reaction score
3
Location
Portugal
Hi

I have always been a bit puzzled by the way my planes depth adjustment must be tweaked when I use my shooting board.

When cutting end grain with the board, I set the iron depth as usually recommended - I back the iron until it no longer touches the wood, then advance it by steps until I feel it catching, then adjust depth for the thickness I want.

Now, what puzzles me - if immediatly afterwards I use the same plane for edge planing the same board, I must back the iron some - maybe close to a quarter of a turn or so - otherwise the having will be too thick.

When I adjust my plane for edge planing, and then go on using the shooting board with the same plane, the reverse happens - I must increase slightly the depth of cut, otherwise the iron will not touch the wood.

I work almost exclusively soft woods (nordic white pine). My self-made shooting board seems to be sound, and it surely is square.
The procedure I use when shooting is: press the workpiece against both the fence and the sole of the plane with one hand, press the plane (hard) against both the edge and the "platform" of the S.B. (no pun intended...). Plane lubrication is candlewax.

Now, am I doing something wrong, or may there be something wrong with my gear, or is this a usual occurrence?
Not that it worries me a lot, I learned to live with it since a couple years ago or so when I built that board, but it does puzzle me.
Can anyone help me understand what may be happening?

Thanks
 
Yes that is right. The side of the shooting board is not planar but a shallow rebate. The sole of the plane runs on the narrow step formed at the bottom of the side of the board, which is cut on first use of the board. The end of the fence is also trimmed at this time, and is not contacted by the sole. The width of the step is the amount that the blade protrudes. So when you go back to normal planing, it is sticking out too far.

Since the sole is only supported on this narrow strip, it is important that the main pressure on the plane is downwards rather than sideways, or there is a danger of tilting the plane.

Keith
 
Thanks. The rebate may be the cause.
I still feel there is quite a difference between shooting board and no shooting board. Well, I will have to count on it.

G.
 
The size of the step will be the maximum size you have ever extended your blade when you have used the shooting board. Anyway, you can inspect your shooting board and see how large it is. The difference should be significant.

Keith
 
Every now and then, you can 'reset" your shooting board by planing away the step with a shoulder plane.
 
Hello,

The rebate in the shooting board will have nothing to do with the issue, the wood contacts the sole of the plane just the same!

End grain is different to long grain, so a little depth adjustment will be expected, especially if the plane iron is not truly sharp. Gravity also helps, the shooting board does not take advantage of working with gravity, but long grain planing in the vice does.

Mike.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top