Problem with bandsaw

[NOTTNICK]

I have a Draper 315mm bandsaw (Model 76237)
I am having real problems getting it to cut through anything approaching 50mm (softwood).
It just doesn't seem to have the power.
The blade doesn't slip, it just slows and stops or takes a very long time, curves (even with my narrow blade) are impossible on anything much thicker than 25mm.
For example I was wanting to cut some tennons in some 85mm softwood.
It took about a minute to make a 25 mm cut.
Perhaps I am expecting too much.
I have got a new blade and have spent time setting it up
I used the Youtube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU to help.

Is it just that I should have spent more money on a bigger machine?
Was I falsely seduced by the 315mm depth.

The blade is just clear of the side wheels.
It is a fraction forward of the back wheel.
It is correctly seated on the rollers.
I have done my best with the adjustments under the table (no wheels here).

Can anyone suggest if I am missing something, or is that the kind of cutting speed I should be expecting?

Advice appreciated.

Nick

 

[Bod]

Daft question.
You have got the blade in the correct way?
The teeth will only cut, pointing down.

Bod

 

[NOTTNICK]

I was genuinely worried for a moment that I'd be making a red-faced reply, but alas no - the teeth are pointing downwards.

 

[marcros]

Daft question.
You have got the blade in the correct way?
The teeth will only cut, pointing down.

Bod

This is easier to do than you realise. There is only one way that the blade will fit on the saw- teeth pointing towards you, so it doesn't seem possible to get it wrong. However, I had a blade that had flipped inside out so with teeth facing towards me they pointed up rather than down.

It cut/burned though a piece very slowly.

 

[RogerP]

Ring Tuff Saws and speak to Ian.
http://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/

 

[Myfordman]

What is the tooth pitch of your blade?

Are you sure that the motor belt is not slipping?

 

[Mike.S]

An online search shows this has 740W power, so should cut softwood without difficulty.

The spec says it's two speed - do you have it running at recommended fastest speed? Only other thing i can think of - blade may not be slipping on the wheels but perhaps the belt between motor and bottom wheel is slipping?

 

[NOTTNICK]

Thanks for these suggestions.
I'll check out the speed & motor slippage tomorrow and report back.
Nick

 

[Steve Maskery]

What is the TPI count of the blade (Teeth per Inch). You need different blades for different operations, just as with hand saws. For ripping, as a general rule you need at least 3 teeth in the workpiece, but as few as possible. Few teeth mean big gullets which mean the sawdust is easily carried away.

For cross-cutting, smaller teeth (higher TPI) mean a finer finish.

In other words, everything is a compromise.

I've just ordered some SuperTuff Premium blades for our Community Workshop from Tuffsaws. 1/2" wide, with a variable pitch of 3-4 TPI. Ian says the finish is like 6TPI, but the bigger gullets should improve our ripping, as the saw gets used (and abused) for everything.

 

[worn thumbs]

Without seeing the saw I would suspect the current blade has too fine a tooth pitch.A long time ago I regularly used a bandsaw with a 1/2 hp motor from a sewing machine and with a 6 tpi blade it would cope with 40 mm hardwood easily.

 

[NOTTNICK]

1/4" 6 tpi

 

[Steve Maskery]

6 TPI is a bit too fine for ripping, especially thicker stock. The gullets are getting clogged with sawdust so the teeth cannot bite. That is your first problem. I hope it is your last!
S

 

[NOTTNICK]

Ok
I'll call Tuff Saws on Monday and get Ian to sort things out for me. (As suggested).
I'll try a different blade.
Thanks for this.
Will check out motor slippage as well in case it's contributing.
Appreciated
Nick

 

[blackrodd]

It does sound very much that you have a saw blade, or belt slipping problem, but,
Looking through this link,__ http://www.drapertools.com/products/man ... 237ins.pdf
I see on page 14 that it's easy to get the belts crossed over on the HI, AND LO pulleys, has this happened?
Regards Rodders

 

[NOTTNICK]

I'll check that tomorrow too.
I've never adjusted the speed. I'm using it as it was set up on delivery.
Nick

 

[Alexam]

Are you sure that the rear thrust bearings are set correctly and that the blade tension is correct. It almost sounds like blade slip, but if the tension is correct this should not happen. Ho od is the prcsent blade you are using?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

It does sound very much that you have a saw blade, or belt slipping problem, but,
Looking through this link,__ http://www.drapertools.com/products/man ... 237ins.pdf
I see on page 14 that it's easy to get the belts crossed over on the HI, AND LO pulleys, has this happened?
Regards Rodders

That wouldn't explain it slowing in use though, would it? It would just cause it run at the wrong speed. Unless it's running at the wrong speed and slipping?

 

[blackrodd]

It does sound very much that you have a saw blade, or belt slipping problem, but,
Looking through this link,__ http://www.drapertools.com/products/man ... 237ins.pdf
I see on page 14 that it's easy to get the belts crossed over on the HI, AND LO pulleys, has this happened?
Regards Rodders

That wouldn't explain it slowing in use though, would it? It would just cause it run at the wrong speed. Unless it's running at the wrong speed and slipping?

I really don't know Phil, my first thought is a blade problem, maybe the op has hit a stone or something and causing the blade to snake.
After a quick butchers at the manual, I just spotted that the belt crossover as a possible problem, maybe if the pulleys were crossed for some time and the belt is pretty well mangled and slipping badly.
Regards Rodders

 

[CHJ]

Does the saw start up with a snap or slowly gather speed?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

It cuts slowly, but is the cut true or does it wander?