Post a picture of a paring knife

Help Support

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
That's 0.9mm
This classic Victorinox parer is 1.25mm at the spine and about 0.9mm at the spine an inch back from the point.
Your blade might be great slicing soft fruit, mushrooms, peppers of all types, raw fish ...

Thanks for that measurement - at 0.9mm, it's in the same ballpark, though maybe not quite as thin at the edge.

I always liked a knife like that very slightly dull so that you can peel with it and ride the inside of the peel without coming through.

I've already set up the edge on the blank that I made well beyond 8k waterstone sharpness, so it's a bit of a novelty but your comments are accurate - it would be good for slicing/prep. I am not a "good cook" and use an 8" chef's knife for almost everything other than peeling.

(i'll also make one with a shorter top to bottom cross section like the knife you've shown). There's not much cost in making these. Maybe $5 each to make them out of AEB-L? I have so much exotic wood scrap / offcuts and knives are the first thing I've made that will use something like a 1x1 square offcut. I'm sure I've burned enough ebony and rosewood to make 50 knife handles.
check that - I can make 6 of these on each 23.5" long 2" wide strip of AEB-L. those are $9.30 per bar, add about $5 for taxes and share of shipping costs and it's more like $2.50 + belts and gas and brazing rod for the pins...

..well, I guess that's $3.50-$4...

.....that's almost the same, I guess. Everything but the handle takes no longer than turning a pen, and the handle won't take more than about half an hour.
This little knife is laying upside down under a vise held in the vise jaws with lacquer drying on the handle. I'll find some time to take pictures.

What I gather from it is that I will be better grinding a tapered blank first before heat treatment and if I want .035" steel halfway down the spine, tapering non-parallel size and then grinding the taper top to bottom and finishing the point after heat treatment will be better.

Or in short, another hundredth or two at the back and top of the knife on the rear half would be usable.

This thing is going to be blistering sharp and easy through things, though and maybe with the extremely light weight, that's a bit dangerous.20221006_141912.jpg20221006_141924.jpg
Last edited:
Good start !
I'd use a knife like that - but probably wouldn't keep it loose in the cutlery drawer (ouch).
I'm looking forward to seeing the mk2 improved versions as well. Maybe in shorter, same and deeper variants ?
It's not a parer but the knife I tend to grab first from the drawer is pretty much as thin, and tapers from 32mm deep at the handle over a 120mm long blade.
Last edited:
I have a Global knife that looks a similar shape; I don't rate it despite it costing a fortune. Form over function I feel. The handles look nice but are nothing special to hold, and I don't think they 'index' well (that term was a new one on me!)
In terms of the blades (I have the larger chef knife too) they compare to the £12 John Lewis knife I've been using and preferring for last few years. Lesson learned 😅

No I think you are right, it just popped into my head... 😜

I got what you were saying. This one is, fortunately, not suffering any steel issues.

I have a tojiro japanese knife and some other rikizai knives. I noticed when I got those, if the knife had something capable of good hardness, it gave a hardness spec. If it didn't, it was just a japanese-shaped knife with something like 12c27 or maybe even something a little better like Aus8, but the heat treatment probably isn't at the top of the range. VG10 at 61 hardness is kind of the standard for lower end knives, and it's a good performer.

Global was suggested often when I searched, but it and a few others that had flashy advertisements and paid promotions were just 2-3x higher cost for the same thing as tojiro or tanaka or whoever else as getting prelaminated.

Im japanese knives, the shape of this one is approaching a petty knife.

In another couple of weeks, work should slow down some and I plan to be in the shop. these little guys are like turning pens, so that should give me the opportunity to make half a dozen.

Handle on this one is slightly oval with taper from front to back (butt is a little wider). I've learned that the phone assumes lacquer is a glare and thus the pictures will be difficult to get unless the knife is far from the lens.