Possible to float T&G glued Solid hardwood flooring?

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evo

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Hi guys,

I was recommended this forum by a friend in the trade.
I've searched on-line for advice but each of the advice that I have had seems to contradict itself.

I was wondering what your opinions are on floating solid hardwood flooring with only gluing the T&G together?
The flooring I'm planning on using is: B&Q Oak Stained Parawood Flooring (L)1200 x (W)195 x (T)15mm

The floor would be installed on the 1st floor (so no chance of damp), the original floorboards have been replaced with WBP 18mm plywood so should hopefully be completely level.

Would laying the floor in this manner be successful? Does anyone have any experience installing in this way? possible issues? e.g. bouching etc?

And would I still require some sort of underlay as the base of the floor is free from damp and completely dry?

Thanks in advance
 
Why do you want to float it , I wouldn't recommend it. Why not portanail it or glue down with sika bond.
 
Because I'm layman, and trying to find an easier method as this will be a DIY job, altho I have had some experience of floating engineered flooring, not the same I know. I am aware of the adhesive underlay but that is an additional cost which I am trying to consider weither its worth it or not.

Any ideas what the possible issues could be for doing it in that way?
 
evo":169w22mu said:
Would laying the floor in this manner be successful? Does anyone have any experience installing in this way? possible issues? e.g. bouching etc?
Why complicate things, just hire a Portanailer and nail it, and what is "bouching" a typo maybe?
mack
 
typo (damn iphone).

With nailing down the boards; do you only nail down the boards at the edges or every single board?
Btw how easy is it to nail?
 
Hi Evo.

I`ve recently laid a T&G Oak floor using this self adhesive underlay :-
http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod5568/s ... derlay-10m².html

It`s the easiest & cleanest way i`ve come across of laying a T&G floor & at £5 a meter for decent quality underlay & adhesive it`s not a bad price, particularly when you add in the speed the floor goes down when using it.

I`d always recommend an underlay on a wooden first floor installation.


Cheers.

Edit, more info :-

http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/s_moreinfo/ ... ctions.pdf
 
The Portanailer/Primatech/Powernailer nail guns are designed to nail through the tongue/feather of the board, every board is nailed, usually every 300mm. If as, in your case the board thickness is 14mm ask advice in the hire shop as the nail will need to be shorter.You could use Elastilon, a sticky underlay or the Screwfix version of it (cheaper) but I believe nailing may be the least expensive option.
mack
 
I've laid 100s of metres using self adhesive underlay, (btw - the offcuts are great for base of carvings, ornaments etc and lining drawers / toolboxes though it scuffs).
As Doug B said, it's easyto lay but you have to be methodical and very careful to keep the release film in place until boards are pulled up tight (I use laminate floor strap clamps), as once stuck, it definately won't come off again.

The benefits as I see them is :

1). A little better sound proofing.
2). Quick and clean installation.
3). Allows floor to move slightly without splitting.
4). Little chance of squeaks and "cracking" noises sometimes apparent with nailed floors.

The first floor I installed by this method was 215 metres of 170mm x 18mm oiled oak in 3 rooms in a stable conversion we built more than 6 years ago. it's as good as the day it was installed.

I have no connection with the stuff btw and have used various brands.

Bob
 
+1 for the adhesive backing. I used this on solid oak T&G in my office. It was only around 18sq meters. The first row was a nightmare as I didnt read the instructions properly, but after that it was very very easy and the results superb.

Layed it in 2008, still looks, feels, and sounds perfect,

Thanks
MP
 
Another +1 for adhesive backing - I've done 80m upstairs and it made the job really straightforward. I used board strap clamps (for flooring) topull the boards tight together during installation. If I was doing it all again I'd go down the same route.

Misterfish
 

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