polishing and buffing machine(s)

[marcros]

I am looking for something to use for buffing furniture after applying wax. It needs to be hand held- what do people use? I have a ROS, one option would be to get a suitable pad for it and use that.

I would also like something for polishing and wet sanding- I presume that this will be a different machine? I can see a use for wet sanding with oil for grain filling, possibly polishing acrylics etc.

Any suggestions- I dont have hundreds to spend, nor need something that is in use all day long. The buffing requirement is more pressing- if it is 2 machines, i will go for the buffer for now.

 

[RogerBoyle]

Go to Halfords and get one their buffers :twisted: :twisted:

Mine has lasted 7 years now LOL

 

[Terry Smart]

You might want to have a look at our Polishing Brushes made for buffing wax. Some of them go into a standard drill and do the job perfectly.
http://www.chestnutproducts.co.uk/results.php?cat=Polishing Brushes

I know some of the folk here have them so hopefully one or more of them will be able to give you a more 'independent' (lol) opinion

 

[marcros]

Hi Terry,

I have a Liberon one similar to your Hand Polishing brush, which i use, and do like. I would like something powered though. I might try one of the drill brushes though, although it is primarily for flat surfaces, so it might be a bit slow.

 

[marcros]

Go to Halfords and get one their buffers :twisted: :twisted:

Mine has lasted 7 years now LOL

Similar to this one?

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 65640#tab1

 

[Spindle]

Similar to this one?

Hi

Fine for flat surfaces but for detail you'll need a brush or two.

Regards Mick

 

[Terry Smart]

Hi Terry,

I have a Liberon one similar to your Hand Polishing brush, which i use, and do like. I would like something powered though. I might try one of the drill brushes though, although it is primarily for flat surfaces, so it might be a bit slow.

The Drum Brush is ideal for flat surfaces, the Drill Polishing Brush better for spindles as the bristles 'mushroom' out when spinning. The Dome Brush is a good all-rounder, one of the beauties of these is that the bristles will remove any surplus wax to give a very bright finish but a thin coat that is less prone to damage.

Wash occasionally with warm soapy water to remove any wax stuck to the bristles.

Incidentally, the Hand Polishing Brush and the Drill Polishing Brush are both made in the UK, the others will follow suit when we re-order them.

 

[RogerBoyle]

Go to Halfords and get one their buffers :twisted: :twisted:

Mine has lasted 7 years now LOL

Similar to this one?

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 65640#tab1

Yes
I've found that it will get into all but the intricate detail and internal corners and in this case as already said you really will need to get some kind of brush type

 

[mailee]

I use one of the domed brushes Terry mentioned in a drill to polish wax and it is great and saves a lot of time. For paint, lacquer etc i use a machine polisher designed for polishing car bodywork. HTH. :wink:

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

Hi Marcos, can I ask what sort of furniture you are producing, what finish you have applied what wax are you using and what are you using to buff the wax?
I ask because in 33 years of polishing I have rarely needed to resort to a buffer. I have tried them but find they never give a satisfactory finish and a final buff by hand is required anyway. It could be that with a different wax and rags you might find you don't need a machine. I do have two of the drill brushes, the drum brush I find too harsh and I can't remember the last time I used it, the drill polishing brush gets more use but I only find it really useful when polishing spindles or fretwork.

 

[marcros]

I am making everything and nothing in particular! At the moment I am making a TV stand for home. I typically do a few jewellery boxes per year as presents etc and a few other bits and pieces for the house. I have a small collection of waxes- a couple of tins of black bison, a microcrystalline (Renaissance) and another- fiddes I think. I have not had a problem with the finish using the furniture brush- inexperience just suggested that a machine buff would have been easier, particularly if it had been left a bit long before buffing.

I like a wax over shellac, wax over tru-oil (varnish) or wax over oil/hard wax oil as a default.

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

There is nothing wrong with the waxes you are using, they are all good waxes especially the micrcrystalline ( chestnut's is pretty good too ). Using the right type of rag can make a lot of difference. When I did my apprenticeship and up to the early 90's the rags all polishers used was mutton cloth but it got banned, must have been because of all those thousands of people that died because their lamb came wrapped in a cloth!! It is a shame because mutton cloth was great for applying stains as well as applying and buffing wax. Jenkins sell what they call industrial stockinet as a substitute which is actually pretty good. One of the best ways to buff wax though is to use a chamois leather. The ones you can buy from Halfords that come stitched around a little sponge are ideal. When you first use them they tend to stick a bit, but once they get a bit clogged up with old wax they get better and better. One usually lasts me about two or three years. The trick is never clean them and keep them in an airtight container.
Getting wax to shine is the same as any finish, the flatter it is the more it will reflect the light. It is all about the amount of friction a rag or brush generates, too much and it will melt the wax and remove it, too little and it won't melt the wax enough to get a shine. The best time to wax is when the temperature is cool but not cold, the worst is when it is too warm. Soldiers spit on their boot polish or dip their buffing rag in water to keep it cool therefor keeping the polish on the boot, and working it round to get it flat.

 

[marcros]

thank you. i will try some of those tricks. I had always used either old work shirts or old t-shirts for applying and buffing, although latterly bought the brush for buffing with.

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

Old t-shirts are ok but only if they are really old and well washed. When they get to the threadbare stage is when they are good for buffing.

 

[nev]

maybe..
http://cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/Polishers.html