Ply Lining Workshop

[Chunky Monkey]

Hi all,

Wickes currently have some deals on 8' x 4' sheets of ply when you buy 3 or more, making them just over £20 per sheet (12mm) so I've decided to finally ply line my workshop. The ply will be screwed to the studs at 600mm centres. I would like to then screw my wall mounted cupboards directly to the ply without having to fit suitably placed noggins behind it. My question are:

i) Will 12mm be sufficient to retain the cupboard screws or should I consider 18mm?
ii) Will there be any difference in the ability to hold a screw between their structural spruce ply and their hardwood ply.

Thanks

Jon

 

[Steve Maskery]

HI Jon
I have a couple of questions first.
1 What is your workshop made of?
2 Do the studs already exist or have you got to fit them?

S

 

[Glynne]

Exact same build as my workshop.
Rather than over engineer the whole interior, I've simply hung anything heavy by using French cleats that are screwed through the plywood into the studs. All you then need is a single screw to keep your cupboard in place.

 

[Chunky Monkey]

Steve,

My workshop is a lighter weight version of yours, constructed of 4x2 CLS, but with a 9mm ply outer skin before the 16mm shiplap.

Glynne,

I was going to use the French cleat method to hang my cabinets when cladding the interior wasn't in my plans due to cost, I forgotten about this method in the excitement of nice clean painted interior!!!!

Jon

 

[Steve Maskery]

Right.
Well I was going to suggest placing your studs at 610 rather than 600mm. You will have to trim every sheet of ply by 40mm.

I was going to suggest the French cleat system. I had it in my last workshop and will do the same in this one.

S

 

[Tom MasterCraftsman]

What's French cleats, are they the same as split battens

 

[Steve Maskery]

Take a length of 6x1 and rip it down the middle with the blade canted to 30 degrees or so.
One length is screwed to the wall with the point of the bevel pointing up and away from the wall. The other piece is screwed to the back of the cabinet or toolboard, with the the point of the bevel pointing down and away from the cabinet. So you can then just hook the cabinet onto the cleat and reposition it if you want to. It's an excellent system.
S

Edit:

 

[MMUK]

Hi all,

Wickes currently have some deals on 8' x 4' sheets of ply when you buy 3 or more, making them just over £20 per sheet (12mm)

Thanks

Jon

That is expensive, even on offer!

My local sawmills sells softwood ply at under £15 a sheet for 1/2". I buy MARINE grade structural 1/2" ply for work from Magnet for £17 a sheet inc VAT.

 

[Chunky Monkey]

Thanks MM, that's a bit of an eye opener.

Around here, the cheapest 12mm ply is approx. £23 for Elliottis ply, with WBP constructional coming in at £30 and Birch Ply at £45.

I'd be interested to know who your local sawmill is, it could be worth a quick blast up the M6, PM me if you prefer. I'll check out my local magnet in the morning, a family member has a trade account there.

Thanks again.

Jon

 

[Steve Maskery]

It does rather rely on you having structurally sound backs to your cupboards. If they just have 1/4" hardboard backs, you need something more.

Screw a couple of blocks to the inside of your cupboard, on on the top right, one on the top left. Say a couple of pieces of 6x4x2.
Then you can screw your cleat to them, thus supporting the sides and bypassing the back altogether.

S

 

[WoodMangler]

I have this, it works a treat - I have insulation between the inner ply and outer wall, so it's easy to keep warm in winter and cool in summer. All my electrics are in conduit on the inner face of the ply, so I can move/add sockets at leisure (I have an aversion to trailing extension leads) . Paint the ply white for maximum light, and remember to mark where the studs are, as you can then support heavy things by screwing through the ply into the studs. I also treated my ply with FlameTech fire retardant before painting, just in case...

 

[MMUK]

Thanks MM, that's a bit of an eye opener.

Around here, the cheapest 12mm ply is approx. £23 for Elliottis ply, with WBP constructional coming in at £30 and Birch Ply at £45.

I'd be interested to know who your local sawmill is, it could be worth a quick blast up the M6, PM me if you prefer. I'll check out my local magnet in the morning, a family member has a trade account there.

Thanks again.

Jon

Great Barr Sawmills, Aldridge Road. Just behind the big Asda on Queslett Road, B43. About 5 mins from M6 J7 8)

 

[HandyAndy]

Personally, if you're going to the bother of putting ply on your walls I'd use 18mm. That's what I've done - Wickes 18mm structural spruce ply - was about £28 a sheet but you'll get it cheaper if you qualify for a trade discount. For the extra £8 a sheet it really is worth it. I screw all sorts to my walls now with zero hassle - shelves, hooks, brackets, jigs... all sorts. I'd be nervous with 12mm but with 18mm it ain't going anywhere! Plus it's nice and flat and not inclined to bend with heavy items.

That said, some of the sheets I had delivered from Wickes were really badly warped - pick the wood yourself if possible. I mentioned this when I reviewed the product on the Wickes site and gave it 4*. The review got declined. :?

 

[HandyAndy]

Holy cow, just checked Wickes and they're wanting £37 a sheet for 18mm now! (£29.82 if you buy 3) Perhaps shop around...

Andy

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Of course quantitative easing (printing more money) won't put our imports up. :?

 

[gmgmgm]

That said, some of the sheets I had delivered from Wickes were really badly warped - pick the wood yourself if possible. I mentioned this when I reviewed the product on the Wickes site and gave it 4*. The review got declined. :?

I had some ply delivered by Wickes last month (SW London). Really poor quality, with enormous voids.

 

[morfa]

I'd second (third) wickes for being poor quality ply.

Another thing I saw suggested on Steve Maskery's workshop build was putting a line of say 8x1 around the workshop, 4' off the ground. Put 8x4 plasterboard on it's side and screw it in. Do the same at 8' high. Then you know at 4' high and 8' high you've got a 8" strip to screw stuff into. Sounded like a good idea to me. I was also thinking that a line at 5/6' would be a sensible idea.