Planning a workshop Refit

[DangerousDave]

Although I'm (still) in the middle of the built in robes project;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dangerousdave118/sets/72157605225226454/
I'm planning my long anticipated workshop refit
Its a 1 car garage 5.4x2.5m brick and block construction. I want to clad the walls with OSB to make fixing storage etc.. easier. Question is, what is the minimum thickness of OSB and supporting batons I can use? I plan to have rigid (Kingspan) insulation behind the OSB, but I really don't want to reduce the width of my working space any more than I have to. Also, is OSB the best material for the ceiling (its a high pitched roof) or would plasterboard be better?
The sockets in the garage are run off a circuit in the main consumer unit that also feeds the sockets in the kitchen (had the house rewired a couple of years ago). Should I get a spark to install a seperate small consumer unit in the garage? Will this be expensive? I'm thinking about getting a couple of 16A outlets put in anyhow (some new machines will be purchased more on that later)
Thanks for any advice

 

[OLD]

11mm osb is firm enough but its not a lot to hold a screw a good method is to use the french cleat system screwed into the supporting batterns at 400mm spacings,50mm insulation thickness min.
weight is a consideration for ceilings so plaster board 9.5mm probably easy to put up or thin ply.
separate feed and 4 way distribution box is the best way especially when 16a circuits required.Yes it will be expensive
Watch out for minimum order quantitys with kingspan some thicknesses have high min. expanded polystyrene and vapour barrier works ok.

 

[punkrockdad]

Rockwool and Glassfibre based products are better acoustic insulators. And cheaper!

 

[skipdiver]

You're supposed to use 12.5 mm p/board for ceilings,especially if the fixing points are widely spaced otherwise it can sag.More so if it gets damp,which is a possibility if it is left unfinished.I would use some kind of timber board if it were me.

If losing size is a big issue you could use 1" rocklaths and 1" jablite to line the walls.Not as good as 2" inch or more of insulation but a good compromise if every inch counts.

 

[9fingers]

I did my w/s ceiling with 6mm mdf supported on 600mm centres. Vapour barrier above and 100mm fibreglass insulation.
Mdf is dirt cheap, fibreglass was on bogof at Buy it & Queue.

All painted with two coats white emulsion same as the walls to reflect the light from the fluorescent tubes.

Bob

 

[dennis]

Bob

When you say the 6mm mdf was supported at 600mm centres was it joisted at 600mm and noggined at 600mm and is the insulation supported by the mdf if so is there any sag in the mdf.

Dennis

 

[9fingers]

Hi Dennis,

The rafters are on 600 centres and the span is about 1.3m and I have a central noggin. So support is a 600 x 650 grid.
The insulation is supported on light weight wire in three runs plus ends plus the central noggin so 6 supports across the 1.3m width.
The vapour barrier is stapled to the underside of the rafters to give a little more support to the insulation.
It has been up 18 months through two winters and no perceptible sagging
It is screwed up every 300m with self countersinking turbo gold screws which are ideal for this sort of job with a torque limiting screwdriver.

HTH

Bob

 

[DangerousDave]

Thanks for the info, chaps.

a good method is to use the french cleat system

Old, what sort of timber is best for cleats, do I have to use hardwood or would scrap softwood do?

Rockwool and Glassfibre based products are better acoustic insulators. And cheaper!

Ok, bin the rigid insulation idea

I did my w/s ceiling with 6mm mdf supported on 600mm centres. Vapour barrier above and 100mm fibreglass insulation.
Mdf is dirt cheap, fibreglass was on bogof at Buy it & Queue.

All painted with two coats white emulsion same as the walls to reflect the light from the fluorescent tubes.

This sounds like the way I'm going to go, walls and ceiling painted white, the only natural light will be from the window in the door.