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Parts Diagram for Kity 367

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cerro

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Has any one got a exploded parts diagram of a kity 367 planer or any kity planer as I think they are all the same. Thank you.
 

Fergie 307

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I completely rebuilt my 636 a while ago. If you need to change the bearings on the drum make sure you carefully note the position of the spacers either side of the bearings, they look similar but are very slightly different sizes. If you mix them up you will have fun and games getting it all lined up properly. Never seen an exploded diagram for one of these.
 

cerro

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I completely rebuilt my 636 a while ago. If you need to change the bearings on the drum make sure you carefully note the position of the spacers either side of the bearings, they look similar but are very slightly different sizes. If you mix them up you will have fun and games getting it all lined up properly. Never seen an exploded diagram for one of these.
There are four acme square threaded bolts on the thicknesses table the rear two seem to have an insert nut similar to the photo which insert into the table, but the front two bolts don’t have any and are loose making the table rise and fall uneven and difficult I need to know if the front two bolts should have nuts like the photo or not as I am at a loss as how they have disappeared unless someone stripped it and lost them any help would be appreciated Thank you
acme-screws-and-nuts.jpg
 

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heronviewer

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The threaded pins don't look like the pins on the 636 - the latter have locknuts on them. I have the 635/636 manual if it would help.
 

Fergie 307

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Ok had a look and as I thought all four are the same. If you look at the exploded diagram in the bestcombi manual kindly posted earlier by Kinverkid, it shows the assembly quite clearly, and appears to be exactly the same. Why someone would remove the nuts, or imagine it would work without them is beyond me. I take it the cogs and chain etc are still there? Getting new ones might be fun. I believe that Kity were eventually taken over by Scheppach. I know they continued to build some Kity machines, just rebadged them, so maybe one of theirs may use the same parts. If not then Google acme threaded rod and you will find suppliers who can supply acme threaded nuts, and collars etc. Assuming it's a standard thread size, presumably metric, it shouldn't be too difficult to make replacements. Maybe one of our members who lives in France may be able to help. There must be people out there who have NOS parts for these. I was fortunate that mine didn't need any Kity specific parts, just bearings and belts. Good luck with it, I also have a Kity bandsaw. Nice solid machines, Once you have it fixed up you will love it.
 

cerro

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Ok had a look and as I thought all four are the same. If you look at the exploded diagram in the bestcombi manual kindly posted earlier by Kinverkid, it shows the assembly quite clearly, and appears to be exactly the same. Why someone would remove the nuts, or imagine it would work without them is beyond me. I take it the cogs and chain etc are still there? Getting new ones might be fun. I believe that Kity were eventually taken over by Scheppach. I know they continued to build some Kity machines, just rebadged them, so maybe one of theirs may use the same parts. If not then Google acme threaded rod and you will find suppliers who can supply acme threaded nuts, and collars etc. Assuming it's a standard thread size, presumably metric, it shouldn't be too difficult to make replacements. Maybe one of our members who lives in France may be able to help. There must be people out there who have NOS parts for these. I was fortunate that mine didn't need any Kity specific parts, just bearings and belts. Good luck with it, I also have a Kity bandsaw. Nice solid machines, Once you have it fixed up you will love it.
Thank you Sandy, I have managed to partly strip it down as i couldnt before as I was useing the planer to finish a project. on the first photo you can see inserts on top of the round welded part but on the second photo there is none and the acme came straint out and its smoth inside the welded bit, It would have to be a very thin insert to fit inside the hole as the acme thread is a tight fit. I replaced all the cogs with new ones from NMA Brighouse Yorkshire as I thought it was the problem at first.
Thank you for all your help and every one else too.
 

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Fergie 307

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  1. That's odd, on mine each of the threaded rods has a threaded insert, the threaded part under the table. Mine were in good shape so I didn't pay too much attention to how they are actually secured to the table. They look as though they have a collar on top that is then turned over to secure them, so the table is clamped between the turned over top and a flange underneath like a rivet. The only thing I can liken them to is rivnuts. Have they perhaps been broken off? Fail to see how it can work without them as there is nothing to lift the table at that end. The Bestcombi drawing clearly shows four identical fittings, admittedly attached to the sides of the table rather than through it. Interesting that on that drawing they are not shown as separate components, so were presumably not available as spares, unless you bought the whole table. I bet it's the same on these, so you will probably have to make them, unless your machine is quite different in design. What do the front rods look like If you take one out, are they the same?
 

cerro

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I am going to take one out today to see how it is fitted, sent a clearer drawing as the the table is fitted with side threads that all work but it is the base that is the problem just above the cogs.
 

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cerro

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Thinking about it day and night, It can't be threaded at the bottom or the cogs and chain would move up and down, am I right or not. so I am looking at the top of the bolt see how its retained.
 

cerro

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Here's a photo from my Kity - any use?
View attachment 118004
Thank you steve, The parts on your photo are all ok on mine the threads on the table all work. Its the main frame below the table the four holes where they come up with the cogs just underneath on my bach two holes they are fine but the front two holes are sloppy and loose there seems some sort of insert missing so when I wind the table up the four threads on your photo work but the two loose acme bolts are pulling out of the main frame so the table is tilting and jamming. (The three phots above)
 

Fergie 307

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Here's a photo from my Kity - any use?
View attachment 118004
The idea is that the bolts revolve between the top and bottom fixed bushes. The captive nuts on the table cause it to rise and fall as the bolts revolve. Think of it like the cross slide on a lathe. You have a thread connected to the cross slide, and the handle connected to a thread fixed between the front and back of the saddle, so when you turn the handle the thread on the cross slide is carried to and fro along the thread, carrying the cross slide with it. This is exactly the same arrangement, just oriented vertically. The chain and cogs ensure that all four rods turn together so the table rises and falls evenly.
 

cerro

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img014.jpg

The idea is that the bolts revolve between the top and bottom fixed bushes. The captive nuts on the table cause it to rise and fall as the bolts revolve. Think of it like the cross slide on a lathe. You have a thread connected to the cross slide, and the handle connected to a thread fixed between the front and back of the saddle, so when you turn the handle the thread on the cross slide is carried to and fro along the thread, carrying the cross slide with it. This is exactly the same arrangement, just oriented vertically. The chain and cogs ensure that all four rods turn together so the table rises and falls evenly.
You are right, I am trying to figure out what the insert is made of plastic brass or mild steel, so I can make one if its steel I can tack weld to keep in place. Thank you for your help and patience
 
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