Ooops: Methylated spirits and japanning = yuk!

[Fromey]

I've been reconditioning my WWII to post-WWII (not sure of the exact date) No 5 Stanley jack plane this weekend. After disassembling it all I gave it a scrub in white spirits as it was looking pretty grubby. The white spirits came out looking like muddy water. So I thought I'd give it a rinse in clean spirits and, for some reason, decided to use methylated spirits instead of white spirits. Wrong move! I noticed the blue japanning starting to come off but by the time I had the plane out, it was too late. Granted, there was only about 60% of the original japanning left on the plane, but now the shiny dark blue has turned to a blotchy matt pale blue. Doh!

Of course this will not affect the use of the plane, but I am now considering stripping all the japanning off with paint striper and then painting it a fresh. I know there are various recipes for doing authentic and near-enough-to japanning, but they look rather involved/tedious. I'm therefore considering giving it an undercoat with antirust primer and then some Hammerite smooth metal paint (either straight black or as close to the original blue as I can get).

Does anyone have any experience with this type of paint on planes or advice on a better paint to use?

 

[Vann]

I'm therefore considering giving it an undercoat with antirust primer and then some Hammerite smooth metal paint (either straight black or as close to the original blue as I can get).

Does anyone have any experience with this type of paint on planes or advice on a better paint to use?

I tried Hammerite, but have been unhappy with the results. When I brushed it on (black), it went off so fast the brush marks remained. When I used the aerosol cans (black and red) the pigment seemed too thin, allowing the primer to show through on corners and raised lettering - even after two coats.

Possibly my technique is lacking, as others claim success.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[mtt.tr]

try yacht paint dries much slower so the brush marks shouldn't be noticeable

 

[jimi43]

Japanning is virtually indestructible and meths should have had no effect on it at all (other than cleaning the crud off).

I suspect that it is not real Japanning and therefore you can start again anyway.

I have seen some lovely matt black paint effect on metal lately and really love it.

I used Halfords Matt Black enamel on my Suva guard on the Inca saw I restored and was well impressed....

Use grey primer first.

Jim

 

[Paul Chapman]

I've found Japlac paint very good for use on tools http://www.international-paints.co.uk/p ... enamel.jsp

Unfortunately they have reduced the range of colours. For example, they used to do a dark blue that was very close to Record blue. However, they do black which should be OK for a Stanley plane.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[studders]

blue japanning

Blue on a Stanley? I thought they were all Black. Is it the original Japanning?

 

[Lons]

You can buy aerosol cans of high temperature paint in various colour inc matt black. Used on car engines, exausts etc.

I haven't used it on planes but did on a lathe a number of years ago and found it to be very durable and covers well so might be worth a go.

halfords is a start

Bob

 

[Fromey]

Thanks all. Yes, at the back of my mind I wondered why japanning would be comming off with just methylated spirits. Knowing that it's not the original japanning makes stripping it easier on my conscience.

As an aside, the handles came up will after stripping off the varnish, sanding and then Sandolin wood oil. The blade's comming up a treat as well.

 

[Alf]

Just for completeness of info, the late USA Stanleys (1960s) had blue paint rather than black japanning.

If the paint finish bothers you, you could always try japanning it - here and here for some information. Or you could just paint it pink and know you'll never have it nicked... :lol:

 

[Ironballs]

I repainted an old Record in blue hammerite smooth, no primer. Seems to have doen the trick

 

[jimi43]

I repainted an old Record in blue hammerite smooth, no primer. Seems to have doen the trick

This was a Record No.7 done with Hammerite Smooth Blue..again no primer ....

It's not Japanning but it's decorative, stops rust and tarts the thing up well enough for me.

I think we have to differentiate between "collecting" and "using" here...

I am a user bordering on collector and had this been a rare example of a never-to-be-repeated tool, then I would have considered re-Japanning it...or just leaving it. But it ain't.

It's a workhorse...used virtually every week to carry on what it did before...

I think your conscience is clear....just go for it..Halfords Matt Black (yummy cool modern colour)...or equivalent satin High Heat Engine Paint...ala Veritas....or Hammerite Smooth (Black or Blue)...

You can't go wrong with any of them.

Jim

 

[Pekka Huhta]

I have used shellac as a replacement for japanning. Mixed together with soot it gives a very good likeness of the original japanning. I usually put two or three coats of black shellac followed by one or two clear coats. It may be possible that someone else has used a similar system on the plane and that's why the surface came off.

Shellac dries very fast and the coating looks almost identical to original japanning. If the surface is dulled a bit with extra fine steel wool to bring some patina to it, I think that seven out of ten regular plane collectors won't know the difference.

The best part of it is that you can just wash the coat off with a generous amount of alcohol, if you want to go back to the original.

Pekka

 

[studders]

You can't go wrong with any of them.

Jim

I managed to.

Painted an old 080 Record scraper with smooth Hammerite, two coats. For some reason it wouldn't dry properly and so several days later when I tried to reassemble it I ended up with a very sticky mess and Blue fingers.

:?

 

[jimi43]

You can't go wrong with any of them.

Jim

I managed to.

Painted an old 080 Record scraper with smooth Hammerite, two coats. For some reason it wouldn't dry properly and so several days later when I tried to reassemble it I ended up with a very sticky mess and Blue fingers.

:?

Might have been out of date paint...don't know why it wouldn't dry otherwise.

Jim

 

[studders]

Might have been out of date paint...don't know why it wouldn't dry otherwise.

Jim

You're probably right Jimi. I remember buying it to repaint my Vice and that was quite some years ago.

 

[Vann]

I repainted an old Record in blue hammerite smooth, no primer. Seems to have doen the trick

This was a Record No.7 done with Hammerite Smooth Blue..again no primer ....

Hi jimi, ironballs.

Brushed or sprayed? Aerosol or proper spraygun?

I'm doing something wrong, but I don't know what..

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Here is a recipe for cold curing Japanning: half asphaltum and half marine varnish.

Asphaltum is obtainable from art supply shops.

Paint on and leave until dry. It will take several coats. You can speed up the drying by leaving the plane out in the sun. It takes about 2 weeks overall to cure.

Keep the drying surfaces horizontal as the mix is self-levelling.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[jimi43]

Nice to hear from you again Derek...you have not been around lately.

Once again...an excellent tip...I was not aware of cold Japanning and this is most interesting.

I can see that Asphaltum is Mineral Asphalt and is available for about £8 from TN LAWRENCE ART SUPPLIES in the UK.

I have ordered some and will report back on this...very very intriguing.

One question. If you have say, a standard Stanley sole to do..and you have one horizontal base and two sides....how do you apply the finish and keep it from flowing out? Do you do each surface one at a time and if so how long before the self-leveling action stops?

Jim

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi Jim

There is more detail at the end of this article on restoring a #51/52:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestor ... 05152.html

Just be patient and you will be rewarded with a true japanned finish.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[jimi43]

Hi Jim

There is more detail at the end of this article on restoring a #51/52:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestor ... 05152.html

Just be patient and you will be rewarded with a true japanned finish.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I have read a lot of your blog content Derek and must have missed that bit!

Asphaltum is on order...500g...a bit steep on postage but what the heck!

Looking forward to this...I have a lovely old Stanley that suffers only from lack of Japanning and this will be a great project...will post when I do it.

Cheers again mate...superb as usual!

Jim