I definitely lost a few pounds ripping through that iroko , but i'm just about finished my first workbench , its frame is made of red deal and worktop and backboard from iroko with a plywood tool well, what wood be the best oil or finish for these materials for maximum protection ? Cheers, paulc
oils
- Thread starter paulc
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
I gave some thought to that after finishine my tail vice project... decised on organoil... it doesn't offer too much scratch protection, but given that the wood's going to move over time, it'd be easy to plane it flush again....
a varnish or similar would need stripping first..
a varnish or similar would need stripping first..
Philly
Established Member
Paul
I used a product called "Patina", which is a wipe on varnish. Search the forum for more info on this. It is pretty easy to apply and is water and heat resistant. Also it is easy to touch up if damaged.
Cheers,
Philly
I used a product called "Patina", which is a wipe on varnish. Search the forum for more info on this. It is pretty easy to apply and is water and heat resistant. Also it is easy to touch up if damaged.
Cheers,
Philly
A
Anonymous
Guest
Sadly couldnt get my hands on any 'organoil' or 'patina' , impatience got the better of me and i have used 'Rustins' Danish oil , it says apply three times , its pretty sticky after the first coat so Im apprehensive as to whether it would be wise to stick on another , any suggestions? on the upside its gone some way to covering up the scarified interlocked grain on my iroko worktop
DaveL
Established Member
Mike,
I have not used Rustins Danish oil but Liberon finishing oil. I understand that they are both based on Tung oil and are quite similar.
This is how I use the finnish oil, apply a coat I use a brush but you can use a rag if you like.
Wait 10 minutes, then with a clean rag, wipe off the excess oil. For big jobs you need a supply of rags and be careful with the used ones. They can self ignite, spread them to dry before chucking them in the bin. :shock:
Leave the oil to dry, Liberon recommend 5 hours and repeat the process.
Cut back before the final coat, which depending on what your doing could be anything from 3 to 7 or 8. Stand back and admire finnish.
I have not used Rustins Danish oil but Liberon finishing oil. I understand that they are both based on Tung oil and are quite similar.
This is how I use the finnish oil, apply a coat I use a brush but you can use a rag if you like.
Wait 10 minutes, then with a clean rag, wipe off the excess oil. For big jobs you need a supply of rags and be careful with the used ones. They can self ignite, spread them to dry before chucking them in the bin. :shock:
Leave the oil to dry, Liberon recommend 5 hours and repeat the process.
Cut back before the final coat, which depending on what your doing could be anything from 3 to 7 or 8. Stand back and admire finnish.
trevtheturner
Established Member
Hi Paulc,
The only supplier I know of for 'Patina' is Screwfix.
Re: Danish oil - don't have any to hand at the mo. but it probably has a much longer drying time than Liberon Finishing Oil (all to do with the drying agents added to the oils).
Other than that I go along exactly with what DaveL says and have found it works well.
Trev.
The only supplier I know of for 'Patina' is Screwfix.
Re: Danish oil - don't have any to hand at the mo. but it probably has a much longer drying time than Liberon Finishing Oil (all to do with the drying agents added to the oils).
Other than that I go along exactly with what DaveL says and have found it works well.
Trev.
Similar threads
