Oak Table Top

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custard":a04xj1fb said:
Colin, when you say "block board" what exactly do you mean? Some people use the term to mean different things.

I've been offered a reasonable price on a board made from oak strips roughly 40mm wide with an oak veneer. It's probably made so that a furniture manufacturer can claim to use "solid wood". Have seen sample offcuts and it actually looks pretty good without voids. The tables are going to be used by my teenage kids so using oak at all is overkill. If I was making something like a dining table I would have gone for solid.

I probably trying to run before I can walk with this project. If I'm not happy with the quality of the joints I plan to route in an inlay or a strip of "ebony" or walnut around the block board centre panel so have dimensioned the "frame" so that would be the right distance in from the edge of the table to look right.

I've used Danish oil on other projects but I think I might use a hardwax oil on this. We have some oak flooring done with Osmo Hardwax oil and it seems quite robust.
 
Sorry to resurect an old thread but it's taken me since February to get this far with my table(s). Click photos for larger version in new window. Last one shows the small workshop I made it in.

Quite pleased with the results considering I haven't really tried to make anything that needed high accuraccy work on this scale. Change of plan resulted in me using veneered mdf for the centre panel with a "frame" of 40*80 around it. The centre panel was rebated carefully using a small Axminster Table Saw so the top needed no planning or even belt sanding after glue up, just a quick go over with a palm sander and hand held blocks.

The 80mm*80mm legs were made from four lengths of 40mm square and are removable as the top is heavy enough on it's own. I plan to add a removable draw unit as well when I learn how to make drawers. Not just to save weight but also so that it could be used as a small dining table in the future. Would be fine for four people.

Big question is what to finish it with? It's for my teenage kids to put their computer/homework on so Ideally I'd like it to be reasonably resistant to wear and tear and perhaps the odd accidental contact with biro (or is that asking too much?). Could use Danish oil but would that affect the glue used on the veneered mdf? It also makes oak go slightly dark? Would prefer something a bit lighter perhaps? Any suggestions?






 
Well done mate that looks very nice.

I use Danish oil its a penetrating finish and easy to use, just brush a good coat on and wipe off the excess 3 to 4 coats will do, watch out in this hot weather it will go off quickly so do a bit and wipe the excess before it goes tacky, and when it looks a but rough in a couple of years a quick rub over with a scotch brite pad and apply another coat.
You can also apply it with a scotch brite pad to help fill in the grain go with the grain and the slurry will fill the pores in.


Pete
 
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