Oak Desk and Side Unit

[Chems]

Been working on this one for the last few days, its veneered MDF for the carcase, drawer sides and solid face frame and top. As always its been hard to match the types of oak from my supplier, its always a mix of quater sawn and rift sawn, no one but us nerds will notice thou

I got fed up of buying the small pots of glue so got a huge one which should last for a while and worked out in the long run a lot cheaper.


All MDF parts cut:

Lipping a shelf for the smaller side unit:

Then use the BradNaylor lipping techinic, stick a bit to the fence, then align the fence to that the extra bit is inline with the bearing and cut away. Very quick and easy for smaller parts.

Heres one unit been domino'ed together, this is for the tower unit of the PC with a small top drawer.


Drawers fitted:



Fully Extension runners from the supplier that 9fingers posted about a few weeks back. Paid for the 5 sets what one set of blum costs! But a lot harder to install than blum.



Face frame for tower unit:


I've double depth cut the hinges in so the barrel lines up with the bead:


Door for tower unit dry fit:


I'll get some better pics of the top when its in place, some nice 1 inch stock used. One board was a little darker for the main top so I embraced that and layed it central with the two lighter flanking, a bit devon woody and people who have seen it seem to really like that so been lucky there.

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

That is beautiful Chems, lovely crisp lines and solid details. The hinge barrel being in line with the beading really fits in with the character of the piece, glad you did it that way. Quick question for you though: Why are the rails set into the stiles like that? (what's the name of this joint?) And what method did you use to cut all the pieces in such a precise and repeatable manner?

Cheers _Dan.

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

Masons Mitre I believe is the name of the joint. Don't quote me though.

Some really nice work there. I too buy the larger tubs and just keep filling up the smaller ones with the nossle. After a while you will need to by a new smaller bottle as the nossles wear out. Once every year is about right for me.

 

[Chems]

Thanks both.

I set it up one the router table with these 2 bits from Wealdon which were recommened to me in another thread a few months back by Karl:

Bead: http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... ad_67.html Then just find a 6mm barrel hinge to match.

Motar Groove: http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... ve_80.html (the 45 degree one)

And here is the jig in the mitre slot. Just sort of run it through empty the first time and it will show you the outline in mdf base, then you just line up your marks and keep cutting. Getting the depth right is the key and making sure you don't exert less or more pressure down on the cutter otherwise you get poor joints. Also key to avoid breakout as that will show when you make the bead. Then I just use the domino to do a 20mm domino on the upright and a normal 15mm domino on the horizontal and that makes up for the gap and pulls up nicely.

 

[woodbloke]

Why are the rails set into the stiles like that? (what's the name of this joint?)

Cheers _Dan.

They are 'mason's mitres' but another way of describing them is 'birds mouth tenons':

as shown here. Making the m/t joint in this way means that you can shape the tenon with less risk of 'break out' due to short grain - Rob

 

[Chems]

Sorry if some of the pictures aren't great! I'll probably get some better ones for future later.

 

[barkwindjammer]

Outstanding work James, more pictures to hide from SWMBO - K'in Ell :roll:

 

[Lardman]

Fully Extension runners from the supplier that 9fingers posted about a few weeks back. Paid for the 5 sets what one set of blum costs! But a lot harder to install than blum.

Got a link to the supplier & part number handy ? If they are 20% of the the blum ones they could solve a sticky problem I've got.

Ta.

 

[markturner]

Really nice job, well done!!

 

[Chems]

Thanks Mark!

One more picture showing the matching Cill I put in a year ago.

 

[mailee]

Stunning job Chems. Did you cut any vent holes in the section where the base unit sits?

 

[rileytoolworks]

Looking good Dude. What thickness are your drawer sides, out of interest?

Adam.

 

[Chems]

Thanks both, the unit is backless, I was going to cut some vent holes all down the side thats into the wall, but I didn't! Its a very powerful PC used for nothing more taxing than net browsing so it never really heats up from what I've seen. Going to keep an eye on it though can always retro fit some holes.

The drawer sides are 18mm, I was going to use 12mm but I didn't want to order a whole other sheet of veneered stock for the drawer sides when I had off cuts from the 18mm stuff.

 

[superunknown]

Looks fantastic. I create all my face frames and doors in the same way as you do. It gives a really neat job and together with the domino first class joints too

What finish did you use?

 

[Lark]

very nice

 

[Chems]

Thanks for the kind comments,

I thought the faceframes would be harder than they were, the precision aspect but some careful marking and it was really quite a speedy process. I finished with a single coat of danish oil. It will probably have another coat soon.