Oak and Iroko Utility Worktop Finish

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Jamster21

Established Member
Joined
3 Mar 2017
Messages
40
Reaction score
0
Location
Durham
Hi everyone,

I have aquired an old chemistry lab type bench top, thought to be Iroko and I'm going to skim the top off it and fit as a utility room worktop. It doesn't fill the space so I am intending to use jointed oak boards to fill the gap.

Question is, how should I finish this? I had thought about PU as I may well mount a sink on top of the iroko piece. Any other thoughts? I don't need / want a top end finish but rather something that is robust for a fairly busy room.

Cheers,
Jamie
 
I would be inclined to use good old fashioned oil based varnish, it is very waterproof and hard wearing. PU is also waterproof and hard wearing but if it starts to crack and peel...and it always does you will have little option but to strip it off and start again. With varnish you will just need to flick it down and apply another coat. Also PU is horrible stuff to work with!
 
I thought they were the same thing. Polyurethane oil based varnish- ronseal for example

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
Single pack PU is much different to two pack stuff. The counters in what used to be my local were done in two pack, they're now wearing through on the edges. Not bad for twenty years in a busy bar.
 
Cheers Phil. For some reason I'd always thought those finish's were epoxy- learn something new everyday !

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
mrpercysnodgrass":vvqjrcno said:
Yes. Is there any other?
I presume oil-based polyurethane varnishes are what most here would think of when poly is referred to generically.
 
mrpercysnodgrass":1rqz10mb said:
I would be inclined to use good old fashioned oil based varnish, it is very waterproof and hard wearing. PU is also waterproof and hard wearing but if it starts to crack and peel...and it always does you will have little option but to strip it off and start again. With varnish you will just need to flick it down and apply another coat. Also PU is horrible stuff to work with!

Thanks very much - any particular brands? I found both this thread on wiping varnish https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post992111.html?hilit=varnish#p992111 and this one on Ronseal useful... https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post847456.html?hilit=varnish#p847456
 
Jamster, couple of things to mention in case you don't know. First is that any varnish can be converted to 'wiping varnish' by thinning it down somewhat. Generally the advice is to thin by about 1/3, but you can actually thin by any amount you wish and varnish with tolerate it. The tradeoff is the more you dilute the slower the build, so best practice is probably to thin by the least amount that'll get it to act the way you want, which could be as little as 1:5 or 1:6 (it's quite surprising how much difference even modest dilution can make).

Second is just to do with varnish types. Spar varnishes are made for exterior use (marine environments in the case of proper ones that you'd get at a chandlers) and formulated with higher oil levels to deal with expected conditions. This may be key for a working surface in that the extra oil makes them softer. If you want maximum durability on an interior surface that's intended to take some abuse oil-based polyurethane varnish is the way to go.
 
Probably worth wiping down/degreasing with meths before applying the finish. It'll help it adhere.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for your responses everyone, much appreciated. Will send some images around or heaven forbid a WIP!

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Back
Top