NVR switch supplier

[E-wan]

I'm looking for a single phase nvr switch the large red push button type where you have to lift the cover to turn the machine on.

It can sometimes be hard to tell over the internet whether you are ordering from A reputable supplier so any advice on where to order from would be appreciated

Photograph of motor plate but the switch will be used to operate attached

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[MikeJhn]

https://www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technol ... tch-101607

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I've one of these, it's fine -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KJD12-Working- ... K7WFYMVRHQ

 

[transatlantic]

Edit : Ah - Doesn't have the cover. Thought I would leave it here in case anyone is looking for something similar as it's good for the price

https://www.axminster.co.uk/kedu-kjd17b ... 1ph-102532

 

[E-wan]

Edit : Ah - Doesn't have the cover. Thought I would leave it here in case anyone is looking for something similar as it's good for the price

https://www.axminster.co.uk/kedu-kjd17b ... 1ph-102532

Thanks

If you have this one did it come with a backing box or just the front of the switch

Ewan

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[transatlantic]

If you have this one did it come with a backing box or just the front of the switch

No backing box. It came as pictured (see the second image on the Axminster site to see the back of it)

I have the wires attached using insulated spade female connectors, and then have wrapped the whole lot in insulation tape.

 

[sunnybob]

Lots of insulation tape is not good. It can become a capacitor that can store a very nasty shock.
Plastic boxes for switches are available from any electrical wholesaler for a couple of quid. just cut the hole to suit the switch.

 

[transatlantic]

Lots of insulation tape is not good. It can become a capacitor that can store a very nasty shock.
Plastic boxes for switches are available from any electrical wholesaler for a couple of quid. just cut the hole to suit the switch.

Mine is enclosed.

How much tape exactly are you talking about? ... I think you're getting a little carried away

 

[E-wan]

Lots of insulation tape is not good. It can become a capacitor that can store a very nasty shock.
Plastic boxes for switches are available from any electrical wholesaler for a couple of quid. just cut the hole to suit the switch.

I'm having some difficulty finding a junction box exactly the right size for the faceplate of the switch I've settled on.

Are you suggesting that you can simply buy a larger junction box, cut a hole big enough for the electrics at the back of the switch to fit through and secure with a couple of screws holding the switch to the faceplate of the junction box?

Thanks

Ewan

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[transatlantic]

Lots of insulation tape is not good. It can become a capacitor that can store a very nasty shock.
Plastic boxes for switches are available from any electrical wholesaler for a couple of quid. just cut the hole to suit the switch.

I'm having some difficulty finding a junction box exactly the right size for the faceplate of the switch I've settled on.

Are you suggesting that you can simply buy a larger junction box, cut a hole big enough for the electrics at the back of the switch to fit through and secure with a couple of screws holding the switch to the faceplate of the junction box?

Thanks

Ewan

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

This sort of thing

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RAPID-TRANSI ... 3469711561

 

[AES]

Yeah, agreed, "that" sort of thing. Though I hadn't heard of lots of insulation tape becoming a capacitor, a box like those shown has got to be better than tape, which personally I regard as only a temporary measure - even if the chosen box ends up a bit too big (easy enough to cut the front plate to suit the mounting lug/s and screw/s. Probably not a lot more expensive than a roll of tape either!

 

[transatlantic]

Yeah, agreed, "that" sort of thing. Though I hadn't heard of lots of insulation tape becoming a capacitor, a box like those shown has got to be better than tape, which personally I regard as only a temporary measure - even if the chosen box ends up a bit too big (easy enough to cut the front plate to suit the mounting lug/s and screw/s. Probably not a lot more expensive than a roll of tape either!

No need for the snarky comments. I did say that mine is enclosed. No different to my tablesaw.

 

[AES]

Sorry, I REALLY didn't think (or intend) that to be a snarky comment.

 

[DTR]

Lots of insulation tape is not good. It can become a capacitor that can store a very nasty shock.

Really?? :roll: Definitely sounds fishy to me. As the supposed capacitor is between the live terminals and/or earth it would simply discharge into the surrounding load (i.e. the grid if it's on the incoming side, or the motor on the outgoing side. And bear in mind that the motor may be discharging its own capacitance too). The scenario you describe is no different to cable insulation, or fresh air, or any other insulator between conductors; i.e. what exists in quite literally every electric circuit. I appreciate that inter-core capacitance is an issue on transmission lines and comms stuff, but I find it had to believe that insulating tape is an issue here.

 

[DTR]

Forgot to mention, the NVR doesn't have to be mounted on a plastic back box.......

Just make sure that if a metallic box is used it is securely earthed.

 

[E-wan]

Thank you for your the suggestions suggestions

Switch ordered and delivered

It seems sizeable and solidly built

I've taken a few photos for scale and close-ups of the wiring diagram and info in case it's useful to anyone else.

Wiring looks relatively straightforward. Only thing I can work out so far is I can't quite remember what the "U" and the "<" symbols refer to so will check with an electrician friend to see whether it matters which terminals the live and neutral are connected to.

Ewan

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[DTR]

The orientation of live and neutral will not make a difference in this instance. If the motor tails are coloured for live and neutral then I line up the incoming to match, just to satisfy my OCD. Al that matters is that the motor connects to 14 & 24, and the incoming feed connects to 13 & 23.

 

[Droogs]

As a follow up to this thread, i have just started a new router table build using a Triton MOF001, I intend to have an NVR switch but would also like to have some form of variable speed control on the front of the table as well. The router comes with variable speed control built in using a dial on the top but this wont be easily readable once installed in the table. so I thought that if I set the router to full speed ahead kind of thing, i could then fit some sort of variable control next to the NVR. Anyone any ideas as to what I need or should get for it, ie should I get stepped or stepless, would one of the fan speed controllers be OK to use?

 

[transatlantic]

As a follow up to this thread, i have just started a new router table build using a Triton MOF001, I intend to have an NVR switch but would also like to have some form of variable speed control on the front of the table as well. The router comes with variable speed control built in using a dial on the top but this wont be easily readable once installed in the table. so I thought that if I set the router to full speed ahead kind of thing, i could then fit some sort of variable control next to the NVR. Anyone any ideas as to what I need or should get for it, ie should I get stepped or stepless, would one of the fan speed controllers be OK to use?

I didn't look into it too deeply, but came away with the conclusion that a proper speed controller that will provide enough torque at lower speeds wasn't really worth it as they're very expensive. It's easy enough to go under the table and set it for the rare time I would personally do it.