New to turning. Wood Splitting

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timbermick

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Hi folks. I am new to turning after purchasing a Tyme Cub lathe of ebay 2 weeks ago and I am thoroughly enjoying it. I have been following some of the beginners guides on YouTube and found them a great resource.

I have quite a bit of timber around the house as we have a wood burning stove so have been practicing with some of that. Not the prettiest bits of wood but good practice in rouging a log down and making a few bits.

I started off making a little rounders bat for my 4 year old son, he loves it. Then what I thought I would turn into a beer mug. I then tried some eccentric or off centre lathing to create a rather nice candle stick. Excuse the poor finish as I said I am just starting out.

Notice the huge split in the beer mug and in the base of the candle stick. What causes this as the wood is at least 18months seasoned?
bat.jpg

candlestick.jpg

beer mug.jpg

Anyway, look forward to being part of this forum, speak soon.
 

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Splits are due to the wood not being dry enough, in plank form suitably stacked and reasonably fresh harvesting, wood needs at least a year for every 25 mm thickness, in log form it will need even longer.

The splits are caused because the exposed surface is loosing moisture quicker (and shrinking in the process) than it can migrate from the inner wood.
 
CHJ":x9kmti25 said:
Splits are due to the wood not being dry enough, in plank form suitably stacked and reasonably fresh harvesting, wood needs at least a year for every 25 mm thickness, in log form it will need even longer.

The splits are caused because the exposed surface is loosing moisture quicker (and shrinking in the process) than it can migrate from the inner wood.

Thanks CHJ, so the shrinkage at the surface is greater than the centre then.. So what do you guys do, season your own or purchase pre-seasoned wood?
 
As I am sure many here will confirm. When doing spindle turning (grain running between head and tailstock) it is best to remove any pith (the centre of the log) from the wood before you start to turn it. The wood will shrink more in the centre around the pith and this creates stresses in the surrounding wood that will split to relieve it. Chas very kindly posted a diagram of the cross section of a log some time ago which explained well the way to cut blanks from a log.

May I suggest you browse this forum as it is a mine of information.
 
Hi

Rather than start with logs in the round, do you have any that have been split? If so, these will be better seasoned and less prone to splitting though may require a bit of trimming towards round before mounting on the lathe.

Regards Mick
 
In addition to all of the above. For the beer mug, which is basically a hollow form, you need to get all the thickness the same to reduce the chance of distortion/splitting. So the wall thickness needs to equal mug bottom thickness and the stem and base thickness.

You can still have your deep base and the correct thickness by undercutting the base, although you may need a chuck.

Brian
 
Good beginning. I have to admit I have yet to turn or cut a blank from cherry that has not split to pieces.. even little fruit blanks :(
 
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