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Is that an exceptionally hefty extension table to the right of the TS Custard, or the back end of a planer?
 
LancsRick":1k26p2cy said:
Is that an exceptionally hefty extension table to the right of the TS Custard, or the back end of a planer?

I guess both, it's a planer, but lift off the planer fence and it's a wide extension table for full sheets.
 
custard":196crv29 said:
You can go round and round this issue until the cows come home, and of course differences in what you make will be decisive.

This pretty much sums it. At the moment I am changing my mind with every single post on this thread. And thank you very much for the photos they really help put things in perspective. My main issue is really space, as the garage is about 2.5x4 meters or so so everytime I need to use one tool I need to pack the previous.

custard":196crv29 said:
But as a general rule for smaller workshops, where space is the critical constraint, I'm not convinced that a budget table saw is always the best use of funds. If you work solid timber a bandsaw with it's small footprint can often be the best ripping solution, for breaking down large sheet goods a track saw has a lot going for it, an MFT table is supremely versatile not only for cross cutting but also doubles as a precision assembly table, and a decent mitre saw is very compact and delivers virtually polished end grain cuts.

Regarding a separate track for the MFT, I think they are sold individually, but one call to a dealer like FXX Tools will resolve that.

Good luck!

A band saw is yet another option I had not considered. At the moment I am more tempted by the UJK MFT just need to figure a way to install an adjustable stop block and potentially find a solution for the raising and lowering of the tracks. This would save enough money compared to the Festool for me to also buy a mitre saw. With this setup, I can adjust the size of the table to my workshop and it allows me to use the workbench for assembly and so on so I only need to pack away the track and the saw underneath (If I build some shelving under it). This is still not ideal but given the massive space limitation and the limited budget I am starting to think I may not have a different choice
 
LancsRick":g481boju said:
Your other option if you do a lot of cross cuts and only the occasional rip would be a radial arm saw. You can then rip material with either your track saw or the RAS, and they are extremely accurate for cross cuts.

I really, really wouldn't suggest anyone rips with a radial arm saw. It's dangerous, inaccurate, and chucks the sawdust at you as you feed the work in. In fact, it's such a bad idea that I'm amazed that any manufacturers allow their machines to adjust into a position to allow anyone to try it. Certainly for a beginner to even attempt to use a RAS this way would be foolhardy in the extreme.
 
Bacms":2830fwt3 said:
At the moment I am more tempted by the UJK MFT. This would save enough money...for me to also buy a mitre saw.

There's quite a bit of functional overlap between an MFT style table and a mitre saw, in a small workshop it'd make more sense to choose one or the other and spend the savings on some quality timber!
 
Good to know as I certainly have plenty of tools on the future purchase list. Good quality wood is certainly one of them but until I can get accurate cuts I will stick with pine
 
Hi everyone,

I know it has been a while but just wanted to give an update on this. So I went with the UJK parf guide system and built my own table from MR MDF. Gave it a try cutting some plywood to build a cabinet for my router table and have to report I am pretty disappointed as I am not getting square cuts at all. Some holes seem to be better than others but I always get almost 5mm off in a long panel.
 

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