New oak table top onto steel frame

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dedee

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My father is having a solid oak table top made to replace the existing laminated top. It is a round table with a hefty steel X shaped support for the top. He is convinced that the steel frame will take the increased weight of the new top.

Alas no pics as the table is in the UK & dad's only camera is a box Brownie.

I have made him aware that he must make allowances for wood movement when he attaches the new top and suggested that he enlarges the existing screw holes in the steel frame and use a large washer to hold the screw and therefore allow for movement. Is this sensible?

The new top will be 4 feet in diameter and 1 inch thick. How much movement do you think should be allowed for? or how larger should the holes be than the screw?

Cheers

Andy
 
That sounds alright to me. Assuming the wood is seasoned and the piece is going indoors then, I reckon 6mm in each direction has got to be plenty of leeway for movement.
 
Good idea, but don't forget... Steel doesn't get on with the tannin in oak.

Wherever the two come into contact some kind of 'buffer' between them is advisable. And use brass screws too, for the same reason.

Just a thought.

John :)
 
dedee":3p7qto4p said:
Olly, John,

Thanks I forgot about steel-oak reaction so I will pass that on.


Andy

No wish to teach egg-sucking, but I always run a steel screw into hardwood first, with some kind of lubricant (soap, or candle-wax). Then remove the steel screws and replace with brass. Avoids shearing off the brass screws.

HTH

John
 
Andy - excellent advice from John n'Olly. I'd also allow 6mm each side of the screw centres for movement - Rob
 
Did the same for my kitchen table, though it was rectangular.

You might want to watch out that the extra weight doesn't make the table a bit springy depending on the frames construction. On mine the whole table became like an upside down pendulum.

In the end I had to replace the base with a refractory type, with turned legs which almost match.

regards

Graham
 

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