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new crosscutting saw blade for kity 419

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mickthetree

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Hey all

I'm in the market for a crosscutting blade for my kity 419. I think this one still has the original blade from 2001 on it! :shock:

I've had a look on Cutting Solutions website but cannot see a 200mm diameter blade listed. Maybe Doug can provide this size though?

My current blade is a kity brand 200 x 2.7 x 30 mm 18W I presume this is the standard size blade for this machine? It is proud of the surface by about 1-2mm when completely lowered.

Also I have been given a 100 x 4.2 x 30 12W flat top blade for the saw. It is unused but a bit rusty. Should I do anything to clean this up? I planned on using it to grooove for drawer bases and box bottoms.

Cheers
 

marcros

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mickthetree":20lzu581 said:
Hey all

I'm in the market for a crosscutting blade for my kity 419. I think this one still has the original blade from 2001 on it! :shock:

I've had a look on Cutting Solutions website but cannot see a 200mm diameter blade listed. Maybe Doug can provide this size though?

My current blade is a kity brand 200 x 2.7 x 30 mm 18W I presume this is the standard size blade for this machine? It is proud of the surface by about 1-2mm when completely lowered.

Also I have been given a 100 x 4.2 x 30 12W flat top blade for the saw. It is unused but a bit rusty. Should I do anything to clean this up? I planned on using it to grooove for drawer bases and box bottoms.

Cheers
I enquired a couple of weeks ago. Doug can get this size but doesnt keep them. He orders a couple of times a month, so you shouldnt have to wait long. I have a cutting solutions 30t on at the moment, and it seems good- plenty of carbide on the teeth. It is annoying how a 200mm blade is a couple of mill proud when retracted- I have yet to look if anything can be done about it- I have my doubts. Just check the size of your riving knife- the kity one is very thick, and may be too thick for most blades on the market. I made a 2mm one which is fine for the cs blade.
 

MickCheese

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Doug supplied mine, didn't wait long. I bought two, a rip and a cross cut.

I did get my Kity one sharpened in High Wycombe for about £7 or £8 I think, I keep that as a spare, it cuts OK.

Mick
 

mickthetree

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Cheers mick

We have a saw sharpening service at work but the blade does seem rather puney and only has 18 teeth. I think I'll hang on and see if Doug can help. Dont really fancy having to make a new riving knife though.
 

jasonB

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The CMT blades are just the right thickness for the kity riving knife and Screwfix now sell them including 200mm dia, plenty of carbide so you can get a few sharpenings out of them.

J
 

marcros

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not sure on the tooth count for crosscutting, but I will give one a try for ripping at that price.
 

mickthetree

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anyone know if thiswould be suitable?

Cant see any mention of teeth angle.

Is it designed for handheld circular saw or chop saw alone? Could I use it in my tablesaw?
 

cutting solutions

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IMHO
All of the cheaper blades mentioned are possibly value at the price.

what you need to look at is how much carbide you are getting on the blade because that will determine how long the blade lasts. small tips and you need to buy a new blade again very quickly.....not necassarily economical.

most of the Bosch blades shown have small tips and look to have soft pressed saw bodies and are probably not the 2.8 mm needed by OP.

One of the posters did show a blade that had nice big chunky tips (provided thats a picture of what you will get)
might be a bit more expensive but becomes more economical.

on my 200 mm blades you will get a hard body (essential for a table saw) and tips 8 mm high and 3 mm fat. (dont confuse that with the kerf which in this case is 2.8 mm)

Hope that helps to clarify some pointers on saw blades
 

mickthetree

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Hi guys
I would certainly go for one of Doug's blades as I think they are great value and top notch quality. I'm on a really tight budget at the moment so I've ordered one of the bosch 60 tooth blades for now. I hope to get one of Doug's blades next.
I'll report back on the Bosch one when I've given it a try.
Cheers for your guidance.
 

jasonB

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Just watch the body thickness when you come down to 2.8mm kerf particularly the cheaper blades, its quite likely to below the kitys 2.5mm riving knife thickness, thats why I use the 3.2mm kerf blades.

J
 

mickthetree

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ah ha! Now maybe thats where I'm going to come unstuck. So the blade body thickness needs to be greater than that of the riving knife? I presumed the crucial thickness would be the kerf, not the blade body?
 

marcros

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the riving nife needs to be thicker than the body of the blade, but thinner than the kerf.
 

mickthetree

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ah right. I'll see what it all is when it comes through.

I should probably start a new thread for this, but I've been making a crosscut mitre sled for the saw. Just waiting on the blade now, but this will require the riving knife to be removed.

All of the videos and plans I have seen for these online seem to operate these with the knife removed. When I mentioned this idea to someone at work they were horrified.

Does anyone have experience of using one of these? Are they safe? (all advice taken in good faith, not legal comebacks) :)
 

marcros

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Mick,

Are you using it as a hobby, or as part of your business?

Riving knives are important if you are ripping, particularly deep ripping. Crosscutting using a sled, the wood shouldnt try to pinch the blade, so it is safe to remove. If it is part of your business, however, it is illegal to remove the knife (I believe).

Mark
 

mickthetree

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purely a hobby. I just had a google and I see the point about it being used for ripping and the wood closing up due to tension. I have experienced this with my bandsaw, but it has never been an issue on that.

I'm keen to learn how to do things safely but seeing as how commonly these are used, especially in America with their litigious culture I had presumed they were quite safe.

Thank you for the info Mark.
 

marcros

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The bandsaw forces the wood down throughout the cut, and into the table. The table saw also does so for half of the cut. Beyond the mid point of the blade, the teeth are rising from the table, and attempting to lift the wood. This is what causes the wood to kick back and why you need to firmly press the timber onto the table.

If used with the usual precautions of any table sawing operation- keep fingers sensibly away etc the sleds are safe. They tend to keep hands safely away from the blade, so they are probably the safest means of cross cutting. I have the sliding table on my kity, which is a not disimilar concept. I wouldnt be without it. I would be interested to see how you get on with your sled, because I wouldnt mind making one if it proves useful.
 

mickthetree

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Hi Mark

I'll gladly give some feedback when I get the blade delivered and setup. Grateful for the advice I have been given!!
 
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