Narrow cut jig
- Thread starter Fctools
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Lots to like there Frank 
Some initial thoughts...
The "support foot" at the far end is a nice idea to help support the rail but, in practice, I'd likely not use something threaded that needs turning - too much faff. I use scraps the same thickness for this purpose (which can be a faff in its own right) so
something that was quick and easy to set and could accommodate material thicknesses 6-25mm (or more) would be great, but not essential. Keeping a rail perpendicular to the worksurface is, IMHO, the most faff-intensive bit of narrow rips with the rail having very little to register off.
I'm guessing the scales will come with individual mm markings? In the first photo it looks like they're every 5mm.
How does the adaptor block lock to the rail accessory slot... t-nuts?
Same for the 2 locking the width stop - if it's just the bolt head pressing down on the width stop I'd worry about indents forming over time. Maybe that's not an issue but I have some rails with indents from the old style Festool rail connectors doing just that.
The 4 bolts on the rail adaptor will likely foul the motor housing on most track saws when cutting at deeper depths. It's not something most folk are likely to encounter doing narrow rips... but I've been there several times in the past. If they (in particular the 2 handling the rail attachment) could be recessed as best you can, that'd reduce that risk e.g. hex bolts.
Some initial thoughts...The "support foot" at the far end is a nice idea to help support the rail but, in practice, I'd likely not use something threaded that needs turning - too much faff. I use scraps the same thickness for this purpose (which can be a faff in its own right) so
something that was quick and easy to set and could accommodate material thicknesses 6-25mm (or more) would be great, but not essential. Keeping a rail perpendicular to the worksurface is, IMHO, the most faff-intensive bit of narrow rips with the rail having very little to register off.I'm guessing the scales will come with individual mm markings? In the first photo it looks like they're every 5mm.
How does the adaptor block lock to the rail accessory slot... t-nuts?
Same for the 2 locking the width stop - if it's just the bolt head pressing down on the width stop I'd worry about indents forming over time. Maybe that's not an issue but I have some rails with indents from the old style Festool rail connectors doing just that.
The 4 bolts on the rail adaptor will likely foul the motor housing on most track saws when cutting at deeper depths. It's not something most folk are likely to encounter doing narrow rips... but I've been there several times in the past. If they (in particular the 2 handling the rail attachment) could be recessed as best you can, that'd reduce that risk e.g. hex bolts.
Hi thanks for ur feedback 1st the four screws are not going to be used ordered nylon thumb screws clear so what hit the saw batteries and no marks on the rails or the jig. The thumb screw at the back there will not be any flaffing about as u only need to turn it once to set ur thickness. And think something to cut perfect sized rips is a no brain when out on site thoughts pleaseLots to like there Frank
The "support foot" at the far end is a nice idea to help support the rail but, in practice, I'd likely not use something threaded that needs turning - too much faff. I use scraps the same thickness for this purpose (which can be a faff in its own right) so
I'm guessing the scales will come with individual mm markings? In the first photo it looks like they're every 5mm.
How does the adaptor block lock to the rail accessory slot... t-nuts?
Same for the 2 locking the width stop - if it's just the bolt head pressing down on the width stop I'd worry about indents forming over time. Maybe that's not an issue but I have some rails with indents from the old style Festool rail connectors doing just that.
The 4 bolts on the rail adaptor will likely foul the motor housing on most track saws when cutting at deeper depths. It's not something most folk are likely to encounter doing narrow rips... but I've been there several times in the past. If they (in particular the 2 handling the rail attachment) could be recessed as best you can, that'd reduce that risk e.g. hex bolts.
These look to answer a number of minor niggles I have with my Seneca ones, so my only remaining thought is "take my money".
We’ll want to get a few out there for any other minor things that people may want from it or better idea about anything all helps
