My planters...

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rafezetter

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I'm flattered ppl have asked for "plans" for my planters (in another thread) so I thought instead of replying there I'd make a proper post others might see... apologies if the crudeness of the construction and materials offends any sensibilities!

For my inspiration I just googled and looked at many many examples, then decided what I thought I could cope with and roughed it out from that. The MK1 was made with a simple box frame, top and bottom stretchers on all sides, crudely buttjointed (I'd do a basic corner halving joint instead now), 2 crossbeam stretchers with a (crude) halflap joint as a bottom to support the weight of earth while allowing full drainage. The featherboard (offcuts of new fencing, not very thick) was simply nailed to the sides with 40mm pin nails using an airnailer (any extra was bent over inside), and laid so that the thick tail edge overlapped the thin leading edge by a good inch or so and the nail caught both tail and leading edges. It was then lined with porous weedstop (photo) and the top was 4 pallet slats roughly cleaned up, mitred then screwed on. It's been a good 4 years now and you can see apart from greying it's still in good nick as you see in the last photo, even though it was left untreated.

The second one was a small cheat, sort of :). I still made a frame, but made to fit around an old water expansion tank (picture 3); I made a bit more of a feature of the legs, primarily because sizing the frame was tricky to work out easily, so I made the top stretchers as a frame around the tub (one in the picture) then matched that size with the bottom frame and added the legs to the outside of them. You can also see the wheel supports in this picture so I could wheel it around as Mk1 weighs a ton now it's full! I added the wheels by screwing them to scraps, then screwing that to blocks set inside the tub, which are wrapped inside several layers of clingfilm to slow rotting and the bottom where the screws enter sat in a few cm's of old engine oil and left to penetrate - there's little chance of water contamination as the bottom of the tub also has 10mm drainage holes drilled in as well as the 2 old pipe holes; which were left open but covered with more weedstop to keep the earth in. You can sort of see the inside construction in picture 4 taken as I was cleaning up the wood with a plastic version of a wire wool cup in a drill; much less brutal on the wood, cleaned off all the old gunk nicely and removed some of the softgrain too which left the hardgrain proud and a nice tactile texture. In the pic top 3 are done, bottom 3 as it came. (Edit: I should mention the wheels in the picture didn't last long, the constant wet rusted out the axles in pretty short order and they bent, so I've replaced them with bigger sturdier wheels and painted those with several coats of cellulose automotive paint).

The wood for this one was v old Larch featherboard (possibly 30 yrs? as it's 3x as thick as new featherboard) from a fence my buildermate demolished - it's very handy to have a friend who has access to almost unlimited supplies of this sort of builders waste and who is sympathetic enough not to smash it to peices, but takes it down carefully. it was attached the same way as above.

It was treated with a very dilute poundshop poly varnish that was left to sit and soak in before excess being ragged off - poor mans danish oil if you will.

The top is again pallet slats but cleaned up more, mitered and glued together (with biscuits this time whoo!) but attached with chunky anodized coach bolts.

Apologies for the less detailed WiP pics - I never really thought anyone would be interested in a build writeup for this sort of thing. I've got more featherboard slats so maybe I'll make another and a more detailed WiP.
 

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Really like them a lot. And daughter in next village wants some new ones to replace the one made for her 15 years ago and not nearly as stylish, so looks like no excuse for me to put off any longer.
 
They look great rafezetter. I was one of those that asked for plans as i need to make four (one for each daughter and one for the wife). Is there any reason not to go for mortice and tenon joints when building the frame? And apologies if I missed this but what is the inner skin of the mk1 box made out of? I mean the substrate to the lining material.
 
memzey":1fl5hxmm said:
They look great rafezetter. I was one of those that asked for plans as i need to make four (one for each daughter and one for the wife). Is there any reason not to go for mortice and tenon joints when building the frame? And apologies if I missed this but what is the inner skin of the mk1 box made out of? I mean the substrate to the lining material.

Appreciate all the comments :)

Hi Memzy, There's absolutely no reason for you not to do M&T for the rails; just remember if the joints are centred the slats will sit inside the framework of the legs - like in Mk2, so work out a rough size, then lay out the side slats with the overlaps to get a more accurate size for the rails, because I've found too large an overlap to squeeze into a smaller width looks a bit weird.

The lining in Mk1 is weedstop, but just really cheap stuff - B&Q bargain bin for just a few quid for 10 metres - it seems a lot more porous than other brands I've seen that seem to be more like tarpaulins.

The one for your wife - I've seen ones in pairs that have bench slats in between - very nice and not much extra work.

If you're wondering why both of them have vertical slats, think about why horizontals would be tricky with the frames as they are...
 
Thanks Rafe. My question was really whether there is a 2nd skin on the inside under the weed stop but I think that's not the case. Your rails are I think thinner than I thought they were which is good because they obviously still hold ok but make the construction lighter and cheaper.
 
memzey":2gqb5pwr said:
Thanks Rafe. My question was really whether there is a 2nd skin on the inside under the weed stop but I think that's not the case. Your rails are I think thinner than I thought they were which is good because they obviously still hold ok but make the construction lighter and cheaper.

No, there's no second skin of wood on the inside of the frame, mainly because it would be in constant contact with the wet weedstop and would rot in pretty short order. The slats as they are can fully dry out and thus resist rot better.

The rails are v cheap rough pressure treated roofing battens - admittedly I got them for free (along with everything else) but as I said are cheap to buy and you can find ones that are mostly straight to buy.

Don't be tempted to buy PAR battens from a DIY shed, because the cost of them plus preserver would cost more and a brush applied preserver isn't anywhere near as effective as pressure treated stuff.
 
Thanks again rafezetter. Your inspiration worked and I bashed a prototype out this weekend. Don't call it a prototype in front of the wife though as I told her I made hers' first as she's spesh (bless).

Anyway I started by cutting the legs from a couple of old fence posts from a fence I replaced in our garden last year and cut the mortises in the appropriate corners:


I then cut the tenons in the rails on my bandsaw:


As the tenons were spaced the same at the top as the bottom it only took a couple of setups on the bandsaw to cut them:


Then glued and clamped the frame up (I used titebond 3). While it was in the clamps I finished applying the feather boards with my air nailer:


Here it is with the clamps off:


And here it is with the weed stop lining (dead cheap from toolstation) and its mitred crown - also made from pallet wood:


I planned to paint it with the same brown creocote I bought for the fence but looking at it now I think it looks quite cool unfinished. I'll let the wife decide how she wants it but I will probably batch out some smaller ones for the girls next weekend.
 
Looks excellent Memzey, and better constructed than my own - having a bandsaw is something I'd like to have to make such things simple and repeatable.
 
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