My First Table Saw...A TS-200

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PeteG

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As planed I went to Axminster in Warrington yesterday to pick up a TS-200. I bought the basic saw, the side extention table, and decided whilst I was there to buy the little benchtop router table, which is still in it's box. I can't tell you how chuffed I am with the saw, I know I have nothing to compare it with as it's my first table saw, but it's a little cracker. Setting up took no time at all, and I probably spent more time attaching the extention table. There was one little niggle which I'll mention later!

Here's a piccy of my first cut on some 3/4" ply using the standard blade as supplied. I used an engineers square to check the blade first, and I measured the width of the plywood afterwards, everything was spot on. The thing which was really noticable was the noise! I've read many comments regarding the merits of an induction motor, but having never heard one before, I could only hope it was going to be quieter than my Bosch mitre saw...In music terms, the Bosch is belting out "Firestarter" by the Prodigy, whilst the TS-200, is Carol Carpenter sat on your knee singing "Close to You"...



For my second test cut I wanted to try the mitre gauge, and as has been reported many times, there was a little play but it didn't protrude above the table. Besides the engineers square I also bought a digital angel rule, which I set to 45 degrees. I placed one side flush against the blade and the brought the mitre gauge to the opposing side. I kept a little side ways pressure on the gauge as I pushed it through and then checked the angle of cut using the angle rule. Again everything was spot on for a one off cut.



I am a baffled with the tape measure on the support rail! Is this just down to some one in the factory sticking it any where or I have missed something :?:



The one little niggle I had was with the fence that came with the extention table. It's looks as though someone has given something a damn good wacking with it, then wrapped it up and put it in the box.
There's several little dents along the length, hopefully customer service will be happy to swop this for one less abused!



All in all, I'm a very happy man :D
 
Glad you are pleased.
The measure along the front is used with the rip fence. There are two scales for use depending which way round you have the L-shape attached. High fence or low fence. The cursor on the fence is probably adjustable so you can calibrate it:
Set the fence to some arbitrary size on the scale - say 10mm.
Make a rip cut.
Measure what it actually cut to.
If it really is 100mm great, If it is only 99mm, then slacken of the screws holding the cursor, slide it over so that it reads 99 (or whatever the real width was) and tighten up again. All the while the fence saddle remains locked in place.

Pity about the dings, but you should have a nice saw. I get the impression that most owners are happy with their lot.
S
 
+1 regarding the scale being designed for measuring the cut from either the higher or lower side of the fence, you will see there is a little icon designed to illustrate which scale is designed for which side on the left side of the scale

There are loads of threads on fettling the TS 200, I have it and as a very amateur woodworker, I like it very much apart from the fence, which I have now replaced with the Axminster bandsaw upgrade fence, which I like a lot.

If you do nothing else, I would recommend making a zero insert plate.

But it works pretty well out of the box and for the price is still good value for money if buying new.

Enjoy.
 
Now that makes sense :) Thanks for the help Steve and Tim...I've just run a test piece through with the fence at 100 mm, using a 500 mm length of chip board, may be not the best material to try it on, but didn't have anything else to hand. The leading edge came out at 99.30 mm and the back edge at 99.01 mm.

 
Well chipboard is going to give you that degree of error just by its very composition really. MRMDF would be much better. But you should adjust your cursor anyway as it is cutting undersize at the mo.
Why is it not parallel?
S
 
I couldn't say Steve, or should I say I don't know. It's all very new to me! There isn't anything to adjust on the rip fence that I can see, other than a bolt underneath for joining the two parts.

 
Oh, I see. It just uses the edge of the casting. And you have to screw it up. Hmm.
If it were me I'd make a new saddle. It's easy to do with some angle iron and a toggle clamp and will be as good as a Beismeyer. You can still use the ali extrusion for the main fence if you really want to.
S
 
A first check, I would do is to clamp the near edge of the fence to one side of a mitre slot, so it is exactly flush. Then look what it is like on the far end. Does it change as you tighten it up? Also check that the profiled piece that the fence clamps to is perfectly parallel to the table- if it is slightly angled, then it could throw the far end of the (perpendicular) fence out. You would need to do this for any fence system. I would also check that the slots are parallel to the blade- they have been known not to be.

I don't believe that there is any adjustment in the fence. Is there anywhere you could shim it on one side. Steve is correct about the upgrade if you have the time to do it.
 
Steve Maskery":25uie7x6 said:
Oh, I see. It just uses the edge of the casting. And you have to screw it up. Hmm.
If it were me I'd make a new saddle. It's easy to do with some angle iron and a toggle clamp and will be as good as a Beismeyer. You can still use the ali extrusion for the main fence if you really want to.
S

Thanks again for all your help Steve. You wouldn't happen to have a good link for a step by step for the above :?: :)

marcros":25uie7x6 said:
A first check, I would do is to clamp the near edge of the fence to one side of a mitre slot, so it is exactly flush. Then look what it is like on the far end. Does it change as you tighten it up? Also check that the profiled piece that the fence clamps to is perfectly parallel to the table- if it is slightly angled, then it could throw the far end of the (perpendicular) fence out. You would need to do this for any fence system. I would also check that the slots are parallel to the blade- they have been known not to be.

I don't believe that there is any adjustment in the fence. Is there anywhere you could shim it on one side. Steve is correct about the upgrade if you have the time to do it.

Hello Marcros...Took your advice on checking the fence against the mitre slot, the fence is flush at both ends but not in the middle, meaning it's a little banana shaped!
I called Axminster today and they'll have a new one ready for me to pick up on Saturday. I'll carry out the same checks once that's fitted. Appreciate the help mate.

Pete.
 
Steve Maskery":1tuikwie said:
PeteG":1tuikwie said:
You wouldn't happen to have a good link for a step by step for the above :?: :)

Er, yes :)
Steve


I like you're style Steve :lol: If you're ever in the area and want to drop one off, you can have a BIG slice of Baileys Chocolate Cheese Cake :D
 
Don't you think I'm fat enough already? I made a a Nigella choc cake at the weekend. Quite delicious but had a month's-worth of calories in it.

Really, though. The fence is easy to make. Just hacksaw and file, drill and tap. No welding. It's self-aligning (because it's on a 3-point contact saddle), adjustable in all three planes and is very robust. Streets ahead of what you have there, honest.
S
 
I did actually make that one a couple of Christmases ago. I found it a bit sickly sweet to be honest. I don't have much of a sweet tooth, I'm more likely to be found raiding the fridge for cheese.
It does look wonderful, I must say, as does the cheesecake.
S
 
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