My first proper tools

[orval]

Hi,

I am renovating a house and I am going to install oak skirting throughout, as well as some door frames and architraves.

I have always fancied buying some proper woodworking tools with a view to making some furniture at some point. I'm trying to pursuade my wife that the cost of all the rough sawn timber plus the tools wouldn't be much more than buying ready-made skirting etc.

I'm thinking I'll need the following:
Planer/Thickenesser
Table Saw
Spindle Moulder

So far I'm looking at a Woodstar PT85 and a Draper 09536. I haven't looked at table saws yet.

So what do you reckon? Am I way off the mark? Is there some kind of combination machine that would do the job? Am I missing anything?

As you can tell, I'm pretty new to all this!

Any advice would be welcome.

Thanks,
Orval

P.S. What's the difference between a router table and a spindle moulder?

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

P.S. What's the difference between a router table and a spindle moulder?

About a grand (hammer)

Router tables are smaller (generally), less power, you require more passes and maybe more then one cutter to get the profile shape you require.

Spindle molder cutters cost quite abit more and tend to require a bigger foot print plus a more permanent place.

You can do more with a router table though.

For starting to make furniture go for a router table.

Table saw many recommend the Axminster T200. I have one of the larger axi TS and its quite good but can't comment directly on the T200.

Planer Thicknesser I have the Axi AW106 and its very good although sometimes I could do with more table surface on longer heavier lengths but its not that often.

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

Just noticed your looking at bench top models.

I wouldn't say there are suitable for oak skirting at all. A spindle molder that costs that little will be useless, plus its a drapper.

For furniture making there pretty much way off mark IMO.

Planer thicknesser will do for smaller furniture.

 

[RogerS]

....

P.S. What's the difference between a router table and a spindle moulder?

A router table will take a finger off. A spindle moulder will remove the entire hand. Seriously think long and very very hard before getting a spindle moulder.

I was in a similar position to you many many years ago and thinking exactly the same.

I bought an Axminster CT1602 (IIRC) planer, a Delta thicknesser, a Ryobi table saw and a Ryobi router and router table. They did me proud while I was doing up the house and while I was learning. Out of these, the only one I have left is the Delta thicknesser ...everything else has changed....and costs a lot more.

 

[woodbloke]

....

P.S. What's the difference between a router table and a spindle moulder?

A router table will take a finger off. A spindle moulder will remove the entire hand. Seriously think long and very very hard before getting a spindle moulder.

Both machines work in a similar way, but the spindle uses much bigger cutters held in a rotating block and as a consequence has the capability to remove a lot more timber in one pass. I'd strongly recommend that you obtain some professional guidance or training before buying one and if that's not possible, then at least spend some time and money on a decent training DVD, of which there are several. If it's of help, modern regulations regarding spindles make them a lot safer than previously, but I've still seen a cutter depart the block, miss someone's head by six inches and then embed itself in the wall :shock: - Rob

 

[orval]

Ok people, I'm convinced! I'll be getting a router table I think.

I have a Powerbase router already. I've found the Ryobi ART3HG, the Trend CRT/MK3, and the Axminster Cast Iron Router Table. Anyone know which is best, or have an alternative suggestion?

 

[pswallace]

Hi Orval, avoid the Ryobi ,the trend CRT/mk3 is getting some good reviews however I would look at the KREG bench-top model or if your budget stretches go for the floor standing model. I've heard that the Axminster cast iron table isn't great,there is several models the same as the Axi' but with different branding record power being one,they're made in china and one problem seems to be the fence not being straight and the sliding carriage is not flush with the rest of the table!.....check the clearance sections on some sites you might find something nice. I got A good bench-dog table reduced from £369 to £169 about A year ago of the Axi' site I think. Anyway good luck and happy shopping . Phil.

 

[Stoday]

The Woodstar PT85 P/T is one badge of a number of almost identical machines with different badges. They all suffer from the same defect; the fence is useless.

Trouble is, you have to pay three times as much to get something like Hudson suggests. I never found anything in between.

If you only want to smooth and thickness, then it's fine, but if you want to plane up rough timber and get it all square, you won't be able to unless you do something about the fence. I built a new fence for my Fox badged version of the P/T; I intend to take some photos and upload them to this forum when I get a round tuit.

 

[pswallace]

Hi Orval, some cheaper end of the market router tables with the router built in are sometimes sold as spindle moulders.....these machines are def' not proper spindle moulders ,even A basic (real) spindle moulder will set you back £500-£600. Phil.

 

[orval]

The Woodstar PT85 P/T is one badge of a number of almost identical machines with different badges. They all suffer from the same defect; the fence is useless.

Trouble is, you have to pay three times as much to get something like Hudson suggests. I never found anything in between.

If you only want to smooth and thickness, then it's fine, but if you want to plane up rough timber and get it all square, you won't be able to unless you do something about the fence. I built a new fence for my Fox badged version of the P/T; I intend to take some photos and upload them to this forum when I get a round tuit.

Yes, I do want to get it all square, so I need a good fence. I have been looking at the Axminster MB9020 but it looks very similar to the PT85. I think I'll have to bite the bullet and go with the AWEPT106.

 

[MrA]

Ok people, I'm convinced! I'll be getting a router table I think.

I have a Powerbase router already. I've found the Ryobi ART3HG, the Trend CRT/MK3, and the Axminster Cast Iron Router Table. Anyone know which is best, or have an alternative suggestion?

As a newbie I bought the Triton router table and mid range Triton 1400w router, it,s dead easy to use, reasonably priced, easy to store away and has easy adjustments. You can pick them up for a song on ebay too.

 

[cornishcarpenter]

Ok first thing dont buy a spindle moulder!! like everyone says they will take your hand off!! you think you can learn by watching a dvd no way! leave it to pros with proper workshops and proper training. Also a router too is dangerous if not used in the correct manner, especially if used in a router table. Get proper training before buying these tools. I spent 3 years at college learning how to use machine tools in the correct way.

Be safe my friend

 

[Sawyer]

Hi,

I'm trying to pursuade my wife that the cost of all the rough sawn timber plus the tools wouldn't be much more than buying ready-made skirting etc.

Hmm, not so sure about that, but a clever argument just the same. :lol:

If you get rumbled, point out that the skirting is only the beginning: there will be DIY, bespoke furniture &c to look forward to as well. But only if you have the kit... Go for it!

All machines, not just spindle moulders, need to be treated with the utmost respect and be sure to learn how to use them properly and safely. Machines themselves aren't dangerous - but bad working practices are.
Spindle moulders have a reputation which, with modern tooling, they don't really deserve. Even so, if you are a beginner, they are probably best avoided. With more experience though, it is an excellent machine. Far better than a router table, in my view and much more versatile.

 

[kalvt22]

I think if your looking to do all the skirting, architrave and door lining in your house you need to make sure you've got the basic it first like drills/drivers, levels (6ft needed for door linings), SDS drill, mitre saw (hand or powered) plus a good selection of quality hand tools (chisels, saws, planes, etc) before getting the big stuff.
As for molding skirtings I've done a few houses for people where I've just chamfered the skirting using a router with a ball bearing bit, stopping a set distance from the ends. This looks quite neat and gives clean lines.
If your really keen to same money you can buy oak floor boards and rip off the top tonge with a plane or circular saw and use these - normally a lot cheaper than you can buy the oak for and its planed ready for you to use.
Keep your tools sharp and dont do anything your not confident of without seeking advice.
Good luck and have fun

 

[orval]

Thanks for all the replies.

Thought I'd update. For starters I wasn't really clear in my OP. By "proper" tools I meant workshop machines really. I have a load of power and hand tools already, just no woodworking machines.

In the end, I went for the Axminster AWEPT106 Planer Thicknesser, a Kreg PRS2000 Router Table and an Hitachi M12V E Router.

Overall I'm really pleased with everything. The router table was missing a part (a knob assembly which I bodged temporarily with a nut and bolt) but Axminster sorted it out very quickly. Although I was initially quite bemused by their email saying a "KNOB ASS" was on it's way

As has been mentioned elsewhere, the fence on the AWEPT106 is a bit dicey, but nothing that can't be rectified fairly easily.

My first project was three internal window casings, internal measurements were designed to be 240x700mm and I came out within 0.5mm. So I'm pretty chuffed with that! My wife can't understand why I get so gleefully excited about 6 pieces of wood being exactly the same thickness

So now all I have to do is convince my missus that I need a band saw, a table saw, a pillar drill, a dust extraction system, a belt sander..... *trails off*

 

[bugbear]

Thanks for all the replies.

Thought I'd update. For starters I wasn't really clear in my OP. By "proper" tools I meant workshop machines really. I have a load of power and hand tools already, just no woodworking machines.

For future reference, they're often called "Stationary Tools".

BugBear

 

[orval]

For future reference, they're often called "Stationary Tools".

Aha! Thanks, I couldn't think how best to describe them :?

 

[Eric The Viking]

So now all I have to do is convince my missus that I need a band saw, a table saw, a pillar drill, a dust extraction system, a belt sander..... *trails off*

Sounds like you'll fit right in here!

Seriously, well done (and yes, it is a good feeling!).

E.

 

[Von Ryan]

You can never have too many tools!

 

[Sawyer]

My wife can't understand why I get so gleefully excited about 6 pieces of wood being exactly the same thickness

Try explaining how it's done with jack plane, marking guage & try square: then lend her the said tools to prepare a piece of stock. Within the hour, you should get the green light to go tool shopping again