My First (Jewellery) Box - Complete

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OPJ

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This is a project I started in college a few weeks ago before we got stuck in to practicing Dovetails for an upcoming Cabinet in the New Year. My apologies for not having any WIP photo's for the box up until this point but the corners were accurately mitred on an Axminster Mitre Trimmer with a 5mm thick top and base, each set in to a groove, 5mm up or down fromthe edge. It's made from sycamore with a lovely rosewood top veneer but I can't remember what the timber is on the base and I think I may have two shades of walnut on the inside - I still need to cut it open, you see.

These first couple of photo's should help to demonstrate the MDF jig I made for routing the dovetails in the corners, which will take dovetailed splines (not keys!). A slot in the top of jig is routed to the same diameter as my guide bush and centralised.

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With the first couple of cuts, I used only two clamps (one either side of the jig) and, er, well... you can see the results of that just below! It's safe to say the box moved a little bit even when feeding the router slowly! :oops:

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I was so annoyed with myself for letting this happen - and also for working to the wrong line, which you can see in the next picture :roll: - that I managed to knock the box on to the solid concrete garage floor. It didn't just fall and land once, it took several knocks off the bench and then rolled for a bit! :evil: Unfortunately, some of the corners show irreparable damage. And I did so well to protect it on the way back from college. :cry:

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You can even see the line where I should have routed it! :roll:

So, on to the next job - and it's time to cut the dovetailed splines to fit in these damned slots and add a decorative touch as well as strengthening the mitre joints. I clamped a scrap of hardboard in place because my Bosch RT 60 router table is anything but level with the large and awkward mounting plate. The same cutter was used again and the timber is American Black Walnut.

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It wasn't until after I'd cut 400mm of a length of this timber that I suddenly remember I had a perfect offcut sitting in my Offcuts bin! :roll: Always the way! :wink:

Just like the tenons I cut at work, these dovetailed splines were machined until a VERY tight fit had been achieved. Took a good amount of persuasion to get them in with a small rubber mallet, though I'm happy with the result so far - bearing in mind you can also see where I've attempted to join two of them, end-to-end, where I screwed up.

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That "warm glow" you can see is from the cheap, little Halogen heater I own which does little other than try to burn me if I get too close - don't worry, it has nothing to do with my growing rage or anger...! :)


So, this one-time "quick and easy" project is still going relatively well considering. I don't have the patience (or scrap sycamore) right now to try and disguise my obvious faults with the router, so it's going to remain the way it is - besides, it's only for my mum! :wink: :D

I'd appreciate some advice on how to finish this, if you'd be so kind?

Hopefully, I'll be back tomorrow and Friday having cut the top open and fitted the internal Cherry lining - although, without a mitre trimmer of my own, I may have to build a Donkey's Ear Shooting Board somehow...

Thank you.
 
Hi Olly, unfotunately I,m not able to view any pics, am I doing something wrong?
Rich.
 
You're right. It might be me, it might be Flickr.

I'll try and double-check those URL's a minute. Hold on...
 
I made a little bit of progress on the box yesterday but have spent most of today working on something completely different (bandsaw cabinet stand, which you'll see more of soon!) while I wait for the glue to dry on the Donkey's Ear Shooting Board I knocked up earlier on.

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18mm shuttering ply (one good face) was all I had in my 'shop, but the SIP 12" bandsaw cut the 45 degree bevels surprisingly well, with a 6tpi blade. Didn't even need to consider the smoothing plane! :) The short length of oak, fixed at precisely 90 degrees to the beveled-edge, allows me to work from faces, depending on where my reference marks are on the timber. Should work nicely with my linings once I've cleaned the glue off.

What you cannot see is the strip of oak (approx. 32mmx19mm) fixed to the underside of the base board which simply allows me to clamp it in the vice. I would have photographed it in situ but... my 12" SCMS is sat on my bench at the moment and doesn't like being moved around too much! :wink:

Back to the box, then...

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Here is my (initial) setup for cutting the lid off the box. Using a 5/32" ( approx. 4mm) Tornado Slot Cutter raised to such a height, I had to run the router on half-speed for safety. I couldn't use the hardboard-trick this time because I was struggling to get 25mm below the cutter without losing another 4mm.

The eagle-eyed viewers among you may notice I do not have a reducing ring in place around the shank of the cutter. I took it out because, quite simply, is as much a PITA in the sense that the actual mounting plate will not sit level with the rest of the table! With the plastic ring in place, I somehow ended up with a 1mm deep scollop on one of the corners - that'll take a bit of work to plane out! :roll: :x

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After all that, it became apparent that, with the bearing in place, the cutter can only give a maximum projection of about 15mm - and my box has 16mm thick sides! :roll: So, I split the difference with my bandsaw and planed the rest flush with my No.4 plane.


So, to tomorrow, then. I intend to get the linings cut and fitted but not before I've cleaned those cut edges on the box - that was why I decided to rout it in the first place (wish I'd just bandsawn it now! ) :wink:

How far do you normally have the lining projecting through from inside the box - I was thinking 5mm or 6mm?

And I'd still appreciate a little advice on finishing. I intend to give it two coats of sanding sealer - perhaps some wax after that, applied with fine wire wool?

Thanks for looking. :)
 
Managed to get the lining (3mm thick Cherry) cut, fitted and glued in place today - and not without learning a few harsh lessons on this process. :wink:

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The shooting board I showed you in my previous post did a nice job of cutting the mitres - very accurate too. Although, I found my Stanley No.4-1/2 easier to use than the No.4? Maybe it's just sharper! :)

First time I came to fit them all in place, I actually made it far too tight. The two sides and two ends went in quite well but it was a very tight squeeze trying to get the last end in place! Because this was the dry run, I still needed to take it out again so I could clean it up before gluing. And, guess what? Yep! I couldn't get the pipper out again! (Not without splitting it towards the bottom, anyway... ) :? :oops:

A little bit of cyanacrylate later and it was an almost invisible repair. My second fit was so much more "accessible", although I did notice a slight (but noticable) gap at one joint - so I split the difference; fifty-fifty.

Hopefully, all it will take now is a quick clean up in the morning with a couple of coats of sanding sealer and some black bison wax to go on later - and this'll find a home nicely under the tree, just in time for Christmas Day ! :D
 
Job done! :D And just in time to say Merry Christmas in the morning! :wink:

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I finished the entire box with some clear black bison paste wax after two coats of spirit-based sanding sealer (don't have any cellulose-type). I then gave a second coat to the outside and the veneered panels after buffing with a clean cloth. I had to apply the wax with a cloth also, since I only have coarse grades of steel wool. But the temperature inside my 'shop today was okay and I didn't have to bring it all indoors.

Merry Christmas everyone. I'm already thinking about my next box - perhaps something quite large to store all my oilstones in...

:D
 
So it's not just me that keeps making mistakes whilst making something??

I feel quite relieved now...

Aidan
 

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