My first (and hopefuly) cheap bench

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bexupnorth

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Made a start on my first proper woodwork project. I've been dabbling for a while, but wanted to start doing things "properly".

The plan
I have loads of old timber left over following some building work and want to use this up partly to free up space and partly because I'm a tight Yorkshireman :)
I have a decent vice for the front of the bench bought of eBay (can't remember the make)
I want to try and use some sash cramps to provide a wide tail vice on one end, hopefully this will be creative and very clever, alternatively, it could be a huge mistake.
It will be free standing with some drawers (I already have these, they're cheap and nasty but will save me some time) some shelves, bench dogs in the top and one leg, but no tool tray.
I used to be a draughtsman so think I can hold a design in my head and don't need to draw anything down. I'm hoping to beat this out of myself, but have my doubts. However, it will be a combination of proper joints (for the legs) tension rods and a compression back and bottom shelf. I can guarantee that it will evolve as I learn and progress (homer)

The main reason for doing this is to learn, plain and simple. I also need this to be done asap so I can crack on with a bundle of other projects. I know I can build a better, stronger bench if I stick with one thing and take my time, but I really do want to experiment to see how things turn out, so bear this in mind when telling me I've been an silly person...

So far I've built one end using some old bed bolts and glue to hold the legs together and the other end using mortice and tenon joints. Right now I can't tell any difference in strength between the two, but the simple one was far quicker and the wood lines up better than the more "traditional end". Of course, when dry fitted the bed bolts end simply fell apart whereas the "traditional" end was solid.

Any advicve will be greatly appreciated, I've already got so many ideas from this forum I'm really looking forward to getting stuck in.

Photo's to follow.

Ade.
 
When making my bench I used 1/2in. screwed rod (studding) vertically, set into routed grooves with biscuit joints in the legs to hold them in position. Top rails went over the legs and feet were also across the legs. When cranked up it is unbelievably tight and you can give the nuts a further turn as it settles down for temperature and moisture in the future. I used square washers otherwise I could probably have cranked a flat washer into the wood. Used similar rod system horizontally along the front and back rails and it is super tight...... not a shiver and it can also be dismantled if you need to move it. I got the idea from a book I think so not mine. It was largely due as when working on your own trying to hold big sizes of wood with 2 hands and you need 6 or more. Set it up and crank up the spanners whilst checking for square.... only do it once. Hope this helps. Good luck.

I should have added that you kind of need a bench to make a bench so this way without joinery joints avoided a lot of that.
 
I should have added that you kind of need a bench to make a bench....

Thanks Twothumbs, I totally agree with you on this. I've got a couple of workmates, but even so I've really missed a "proper" bench.

I'm using some 10mm steel bar (that used to be a rose arch) for the tie rods. Personally I think these will provide the most strength to the "design" I'm using. My top and bottom rails are between the legs, the top one flush and the bottom one 3" from the floor so I can get my feet under.
 
I am also building a bench, nothing fancy but decent size and solid. Using M&T joints throughout and two points I would make are :
1
Make sure the legs are dead level and not in twist. Especially if you are winding it up with threaded nod, bolts with buried nuts etc.
2
Fit decent deep aprons to the front and rear of the top to prevent racking.

I dry built mine last week and couldn't get it to rack, but still fitted a 9" x1" apron to the front, rear apron will not be as deep .
 
Thanks Streepips,

Back Apron will be full height when I get it right. I measured twice and still cut the chuffing thing 100mm short last night. :oops:

I wasn't going to fit a front Apron, but will revise this part of my design on your recommendation, many thanks.

Ade.
 
All you need to make a bench, is a matched pair of sawhorses. Use a piece of MDF across them to use as a 'bench'.
Once the top is finished, lose the MDF and stretch your new top across the horses. Work from it to finish the rest of your bench. If you need a vice from the outset, then a 'Workmate' should see you through for a while. Usually found on eBay if you don't already have the Workmate.

Best of luck with the build.

John :)
 
Just had to make my first 'Proper' work bench.
My Mickey mouse Lathe broke so I have ordered a new one... but it's twice the weight... wouldn't work on the flimsy plastic shelves I had...

I only bought the wood for the legs, the bracing I used a palet from work, and I got a huge length of oak finish worktop from free cycle... not pretty but it's secure, sturdy (holds my weight!) and functional. And it only cost me about a tenner!!
I have added a shelf underneath for my finishes, put clips on the front for my turning tools, and my tool boxes sit under the shelf. sorted!
 
I have been trying free-cycle for a few months now. The stuff I offered to give away wasn't taken up, despite three persons advertising for exactly what I was offering.
The stuff I seek just never comes up!
All I am seeking is old furniture to recycle. :( And not really posh stuff either. Just a source for the pine laminated boards! Ideal for my workshop furniture, but darned expensive retail!
:(

John

PS When I said all that was needed to make a bench I meant that you didn't need to have a workbench, to make one. Two sawhorses are sufficient to work off.
But i have a bench so I think I will just add a new top!

John :D
 
All I am seeking is old furniture to recycle.

Hi John, shame about your experiences with Freecycle, personally I've been very lucky. I don't know what they are like near you, but we have an auction house that does a lot of house clearances and there is often a lot of furniture skipped at the end of the day that is available free if you just ask.

hope this helps,

Ade.
 
bexupnorth":61t5ph1o said:
All I am seeking is old furniture to recycle.

Hi John, shame about your experiences with Freecycle, personally I've been very lucky. I don't know what they are like near you, but we have an auction house that does a lot of house clearances and there is often a lot of furniture skipped at the end of the day that is available free if you just ask.

hope this helps,

Ade.

It's an idea.. But Biddle and Webb, in Ladywood, seem to try and sell even the rubbish for restoration; so I was told!
It's a bear in mind suggestion though, so thanks Bex.

John :)
 
Hi Guys,

Finally got round to uploading some pictures. As I said before it's very rough and ready and a work in progress. Mainly because it's so much better than anything I've had before that I'm too busy using it to finish it. :D

First picture shows the end where I'll eventually be using two old vice screws off a workmate to create a full length end vice.

For the bench dogs I started with inch diameter dowel and cut a flat on them. Then added a bit of PVC plumbing pipe to stop them falling through. That worked, but I then realised I had several plastic dogs left over from the workmate so I'm going to drill smaller holes and use these instead.

I need to edge the worktop and add a hardboard top. I'll also be adding doors and ends in an effort to keep down the dust and probably a few shelves. Like I say, rough and ready, but solid and functional, what do you think?
 

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Bex,

The old saying... If it ain't broke don't fix it. So, if it works for you then you have a good bench.
The flatter and more level it is though, the better you will find it to work off.

Best of luck.

John (hammer) :ho2
 
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