Multi point lock

[stuartpaul]

My main access door to the workshop is FLB timber door. The current lock is knackered and needs replacing.

I have wanted to upgrade security for some time and I'm wondering if it's possible to retrofit a multipoint lock to such a door?

Are there any especially for timber or will any one do?

If a multipoint won't fit any other methods of increasing door security with the benefit of a single lock/key approach?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi SP
I'm not familiar with the TLA FLB.
But I have successfully fitted a modern multipoint lock to a timber door. You just have to get the right hardware. I can't remember the name of the place I used, although I could take you there, on a trading estate just off the ringroad near West Bridgford.
You just need to be able to rout a long groove and a few deep mortices. It worked very well indeed and plan to repeat the exercise when I change my plastic front door for a proper one.
S

 

[WibbleWobble]

From what I can ascertain/remember FLB stands for Framed, Ledged & Braced. I may be wrong but my interpretation of that is side by side vertical planking (possibly T&G) a frame round the outside with a cross bar in the centre and diagonal stringers for strength?

Pete

 

[Steve Maskery]

Ah! Yes, that makes sense.
Well putting a multipoint lock on such a door would be unconventional, although possible if it is really FLB as opposed to just LB.
Don't you just love TLAs?
S

 

[stuartpaul]

Tis indeed framed, ledged and braced!

Whilst it migt be unconventional it is a reasonably beefy door and I think would take such a lock. I cant think of any other method of increasing security without a door change and I can't afford that at present.

Thanks as always Steve.

 

[MMUK]

As long as the sash stiles are at least 75mm wide then you can fit a multi-point lock no problem. I've fitted loads on industrial units where uPVC isn't allowed. You'll need to rout a 16mm wide by 3mm deep rebate along the length and within this another rebate 12mm wide by 5mm deep to allow the mechanism to operate without fouling.

Whatever you do, don't forget the double rebate!

 

[xy mosian]

There used to be a surface mounting, inner surface, multi-point locking system which might be more suitable. One of the more well known makers if my memory is working correctly.
xy

 

[MMUK]

There used to be a surface mounting, inner surface, multi-point locking system which might be more suitable. One of the more well known makers if my memory is working correctly.
xy

Mila used to do one with a one piece surface mount keep as well (although you still need to mortice out for the claws and deadbolts). I don't think it's made any more though.

 

[stuartpaul]

Cheers gents.

No problem with the routing. Just need to find a suitable lock mechanism.

 

[MMUK]

http://www.lockshopdirect.co.uk/yale-do ... tAodLhwAHA

For £75, it's fully adjustable and comes complete with keeps. Then allow £25 for barrel and handle set and you're good to go. Plus the Yale DoorMaster locks are all Police approved.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Be sure to purchase any lock to BS EN 1303 or BS 3621 (enhanced security) the Euro profile should also be Grade 5 security and grade 0 attack resistance, including attack by drill to grade 2.

These should be considered as minimum standards for locking mechanisms.

In addition to minimising the risk of compromise, your insurance company will be chuffed to bits.

Another point, you can have the best locks on the planet but it is the doors are usually what gives in an attack. I have often found the lock in pristine nick while the door is smashed beyond repair. Also, pay attention to your hinge side by using hinge bolts. The keep side too can be reinforced by fixing a metal strip (known as a London bar) doen the keep side of the jamb to reinforce the frame where a mortice has been cut to allow insert of the keeps.

Out ard opening doors are also more secure than inward opening ones, (the hinges are always then on the inside) and the rebate around the frame will also enhace resistance.

I would also beef up the inside face of the door by attaching a sheet of ply (min thickness 9mm to the back of the door.

Good luck, don't give the theives the opportunity.

David

Good luck

David

 

[MMUK]

And if all else fails, keep a rabid hamster and a tube of superglue in the letterbox :lol:

 

[stuartpaul]

http://www.lockshopdirect.co.uk/yale-doormaster-adjustable-repair-multipoint-lock-3-hooks-and-2-rollers?source=googlebase&is_vat=1&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=feedmanager&gclid=CK6bl5_CuLwCFafKtAodLhwAHA

For £75, it's fully adjustable and comes complete with keeps. Then allow £25 for barrel and handle set and you're good to go. Plus the Yale DoorMaster locks are all Police approved.

Site says the lock is only suitable for PVC doors.

You reckon this is OK for a timber door?

 

[MMUK]

http://www.lockshopdirect.co.uk/yale-doormaster-adjustable-repair-multipoint-lock-3-hooks-and-2-rollers?source=googlebase&is_vat=1&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=feedmanager&gclid=CK6bl5_CuLwCFafKtAodLhwAHA

For £75, it's fully adjustable and comes complete with keeps. Then allow £25 for barrel and handle set and you're good to go. Plus the Yale DoorMaster locks are all Police approved.

Site says the lock is only suitable for PVC doors.

You reckon this is OK for a timber door?

Yep it'll be fine. The only thing you may have to do is rout out on the jamb for the keeps.

 

[Setch]

Given the choice, I'd favour 3 mortise deadlocks keyed alike. The multilpoint lock puts all your eggs in one basket, and whilst it had multiple locking points, you only have to compromise one cylinder to unlock then all. They're also bloody awkward to use if the door is prone to movement, which is highly likely in a LAB door.

(Fwiw, I'm a fulltime locksmith )

 

[stuartpaul]

Given the choice, I'd favour 3 mortise deadlocks keyed alike. The multilpoint lock puts all your eggs in one basket, and whilst it had multiple locking points, you only have to compromise one cylinder to unlock then all. They're also bloody awkward to use if the door is prone to movement, which is highly likely in a LAB door.

(Fwiw, I'm a fulltime locksmith )

You may have a point Setch, a closer examination today shows a minor degree of movement and whilst 3 locks would be something of a PITA that would be little compared to a multipoint becoming unusable because of movement.

 

[MMUK]

Given the choice, I'd favour 3 mortise deadlocks keyed alike. The multilpoint lock puts all your eggs in one basket, and whilst it had multiple locking points, you only have to compromise one cylinder to unlock then all. They're also bloody awkward to use if the door is prone to movement, which is highly likely in a LAB door.

(Fwiw, I'm a fulltime locksmith )

You may have a point Setch, a closer examination today shows a minor degree of movement and whilst 3 locks would be something of a PITA that would be little compared to a multipoint becoming unusable because of movement.

I've NEVER had any call backs on any of the timber doors I've fitted multi-point locking systems to. Just bear in mind that 99% of the issues experienced are down to poor installation in the first place.

 

[RobinBHM]

I would recommend a deadbolt espagnolette lock rather than a hook type bolt.

The deadbolt part of the lock, which is tapered, helps to align the lock as it engages in the strike plate. Hook bolts are known to cause problems in timber doors as they wont lock if the door shrinks too much.

Multipoint locks can actually tolerate quite a lot of movement and have the advantage that the bolts are tapered which will pull the door in as the handle is thrown up in the locked position, so fully pressurizing the weather seal.

Eespag locks with a 45mm backset are usually best for timber.

questhardware.co uk part no AIU 483B is a good example of a lock for timber. Carlisle brass do decent 92mm centre handles to suit.

 

[Setch]

In my experience, using a mpl to pull a warped or dropped door into alignment prematurely wears the gearbox - most mpls use pretty small parts to transfer the action of lifting the handle into throwing the bolt work, and they're usually pretty punky pot metal castings. Those bits fail if they have to endure extra force for any length of time, and then you're faced with buying a while new mechanism or gearbox.

it is with pointing out that my sample is skewed, as I'm only likely to get called in when something has gone wrong!

 

[DeanN]

I was a locksmith for 10 years before giving it up to concentrate on woodwork. The number of failed, incorrectly fitted, and damaged mpt's I saw during that time was vast compared to mortice locks. I also had a smile on my face when I came across a door that needed opening and it was fitted with a mpt - need I say more!