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Morticer chuck help please....

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Karl

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In my quest to sort out the old morticer I bought, the final piece of the jigsaw is sourcing a suitable chuck.

Here's a picture of mine



And one of OPJ's (same machine - except his is photo'd upside down for some reason :lol: )



The metal receiver part in mine (rusted up) has an internal diameter of 1/2". However, it appears to be a lot longer than that on Olly's machine.

Any pointers on where to get a decent chuck from?

Cheers

Karl
 

Chrispy

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Hi Karl

I think that the normal way to hold the drill bit was as you have ie. a collet. my machine has a chuck fitted and is very fiddly to set up because as you tighten the chuck it pushes the drill bit down increasing the chisel/drill gap. so I wish mine had the collet as yours has.
 

Karl

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What do you do about different diameter drill shanks? Have a sleeve for each?

The i/d of the collet is 1/2".
 

9fingers

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Karl":ydoh5oj9 said:
What do you do about different diameter drill shanks? Have a sleeve for each?

The i/d of the collet is 1/2".
Exactly correct Karl
The additon of a chuck to that type of machine is a modification/bodge.

Sounds like you need a 1/2" parallel arbour 1/2" drill chuck.

Have a look at Chronos or RDG both have websites and there is always ebay where both companies tend to pop up.

You will almost certainly have to remove the motor to fit it.

If you can't find one with a parallel arbour, buy a female threaded chuck and have it sent to me and I'll make you an arbour to fit. PM for address if you want to go that route.

Bob
 

Chrispy

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Yes you need a sleeve for each sized auger . A lot of augers have a flat on the shank for the grub screw to tighten on to.
 

Karl

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Thanks Bob.

I've removed the motor already.

What is this? Had a look on the Chronos website, but couldn't seem to find anything.

9fingers":9hqilcgd said:
Sounds like you need a 1/2" parallel arbour 1/2" drill chuck.
The bit already fitted to the machine is 1/2" internal dia.

Chris - where did you get your sleeves from?

Sorry for all the Q's, but I haven't a clue #-o

Cheers

Karl
 

9fingers

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Sorry Karl, I'm up to my ears in wet glue and am supposed to be getting the dinner.

I'll be back on when sanity has been obtained.

Bob
 

Karl

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No rush Bob - any help you can give is appreciated.

Karl

(just been out gardening).
 

ProShop

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Is that a Multico,if it is it's a clone of the Sedgwick, the chuck version came later with a modified head to allow room for the chuck and easier access for the chuck key The photo of the motor with the chuck key looks like a mod to me, although I can't be sure as it doesn't show the mounting which is the giveaway.

The one you have uses various sized collets which would have come with the machine, you can still get these from Sedgwick as they still make that morticer. Or get someone to make you some.
 

Karl

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ProShop":3bd12qz0 said:
Is that a Multico,if it is it's a clone of the Sedgwick, the chuck version came later with a modified head to allow room for the chuck and easier access for the chuck key The photo of the motor with the chuck key looks like a mod to me, although I can't be sure as it doesn't show the mounting which is the giveaway.

The one you have uses various sized collets which would have come with the machine, you can still get these from Sedgwick as they still make that morticer. Or get someone to make you some.
Thanks for the input.

The machine, I believe, is a "Smiths". Having said that, it does have a lot of similairities to the Sedgwick machine (dovetailed headstock, depth stop etc).

The point re: reducing collets makes sense, and would seem to be the best/easiest way out of the problem. If I could easily find some.

Cheers

Karl
 

9fingers

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If you want to go down the chuck route then it seems that parallel shank ones are rare/expensive from the vendors I looked at

I suggest you search on ebay with this string (copy and paste) The spaces are important.
1/2" 13mm drill chuck unf -sds -keyless -adapter

These chuck will need an arbour making for them as per my earlier offer.

Bob
 

kirkpoore1

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For those playing along at home, here's a little background on the chuck-vs-collet issue:

The advantage of a collet is that they hold better. More steel-on-steel contact, and sometimes they have set screws, so your bit is much less likely to spin in the collet. You can also adjust the height of the collet to ensure your bit does not move vertically under the pressure of the wood, thus you maintain the proper clearance between the bit and the chisel.

The advantage of a drill chuck is versatility. You only need one, instead of several collets. Since there is only one, you never take it off, and you'll never lose it.

My big mortiser had been retrofitted with a chuck. Because of this, I broke at two chisels when the bit jammed. As the chisel was pressed into the wood, the clogged up chips forced the outer edges wider, eventually splitting the chisel down the side. Ugly, and somewhat expensive. Since I couldn't retro fit my mortiser, I had 3 flats machined into the shanks of my larger bits. These let the drill chuck grip them properly, and the spot where the flats end acts as a vertical stop to keep the bit from getting shoved further up into the chisel. I haven't done this with my smaller bits (1/4" and 3/8") because those are pretty cheap to replace should it happen again.

Kirk
 

Karl

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I'm really not sure which is the best way to go.

As I understand it, I could either

1) get a chuck similair to that which you linked (i'd already been looking at those, but wasn't sure of suitability). But this would involve the removal of the part currently attached to the motor shaft? This might be a problem - it looks pretty much welded on (having removed the grub screw, it doesn't budge at all). I guess some pulley pullers would do it.

2) get matching collets for each drill shank as and when I get new bits. This sounds like the better option to me, but i'm not sure of their availability, and it may prove expensive if I have to get a new collet machined up each time I get a new drill.

:-k
 

Karl

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Well, as my grandad used to say, the plot thickens......

If the lump of rust is left in-situ, there is only 35/40mm below it before we meet the bottom of the casting where the chisel fits. I'm not sure there's enough room in there to allow a chuck and, even if there is, access for getting a key in there to tighten it up might be restricted.
 

9fingers

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Well in that case it will have to come off and be shortened or start again with a nice shiny bit of steel.

Get some plus gas in there and apply puller or just send the whole thing here if you want?

Bob
 

Wildman

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get yourself a small metal lathe and make the collets as you need them. Job sorted. Plus you can make other accessories as needed.
 

Karl

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As attractive as it sounds, I have no experience of turning wood, let alone metal.
 

dickm

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It's not clear from the description, but Tilgear's current sale (ending 31 March) has some chuck arbors that sound as if they have parallel shanks. Might be worth a look on their website.
 
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