Moisture in wood

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

6pot

Member
Joined
11 Feb 2007
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
And so I have now cut my green oak, but it needs to dry a bit/lot before I go any further.

How dry should the oak be before I finish it?
How do I measure the moisture content?
Does it make a difference if I am making stuff for indoors or out?

Cheers :)
 
Hi 6,

Without a means to check the moisture [meaning a moisture meter] the general idea is a year per inch of thickness. But that depends so much on where it is stored. If kept in a shed without controlling the air's moisture it will take much longer.

I mentioned a moisture meter. I use a Wagner MMC 220, which is but one of many variously priced moisture meters. I generally shoot for 8% moisture content or a bit less for indoor furniture. For outdoor furniture I don't care if it drops below 15% or a little less.

An important issue is also equilibrium. That is when the moisture content stops moving, that is when I can "trust" the wood is as ready as it is going to be.

Take care, Mike
 
Thanks Mike. Nice clear advice.

Just went on the web to find the price for that Wagner MMC220. :shock:

But then I've saved a fortune on my garage door project, so .... :twisted:
 
Hi agian, 6.

I suspect there will be other advice given for moisture meters. Perhaps especially ones available on your side of the pond versus mine which are more cost effective.

One of the key aspects for me in looking at a meter was one which was easily calibrated between species--and a wide range of species including hard exotics. I also wanted a pinless because I take it around with me when purchasing timber.

Depending on the timber you will generally use, my criteria may or may not be appropriate for you.

Take care, Mike
 
I've been contemplating a moisture meter myself, quite a usefull piece of equipment so worth spending i think. I was looking at wagner meters on this website

http://www.wmsconsulting.co.uk/mmc210.htm

works out about £260 for this model

however i was considering ordering the same meter from lee valley

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... at=1,43513

I assume it's exactly the same and could prove to be a nice saving on the uk price even with the accompanying tax's involved.

food for thought anyway

just noticed your site mike, very nice, like the logo
 
Hi 6pot,

Before electronic meters were available the standard method used was to weigh a sample before and after drying in an oven. The water content is then calculated as the percentage reduction in weight of the sample. (Sample used is written off afterwards.)

Recommended temperature was 105C and 24 hours was max time. The suggested method was to repeatedly weigh the sample until the weight stopped reducing. For some reason the book I have recommends cooling the sample in a dry atmosphere before weighing each time , but I can see no reason why that would be necessary except to protect your hands or the weighing scales.

I have done this using a set of digital kitchen scales and a domestic electric cooker to dry the sample. Not a good idea to substitute microwave oven as I have heard reports of fire and explosive splitting from these. In my case the 20mm thick sample stopped changing weight after about 4 hours.

I also own a moisture meter, because it is much more convenient (but was rather expensive).

Simon
 
SON":leek9fat said:
Not a good idea to substitute microwave oven as I have heard reports of fire and explosive splitting from these.
Simon

Simon, that's only the case if you don't follow some simple guidelines for oven drying samples in a micro-wave oven. I prefer using a microwave in some ways as you can get results much quicker than by using a conventional oven.

Here are simple rules to follow for anyone that's planning to do the oven-drying test with a micro-wave. Slainte.

Drying wood to oven dry in a microwave oven takes between 20 and 45 minutes. 30 minutes is about average. This is a significant advantage over the 24 hours or so required to do the job in a conventional oven. It does, however, require high accuracy and attention to details. Poor methodology and mistakes in the procedure tend to be punished.

Samples should be 25 mm (1”) long, and the full width and thickness of the board being tested.
The microwave oven must have a carousel (turntable) and, ideally, five or six power settings. A paper towel or towels is also essential.

The following procedure is a good method:

1. Weigh the sample.

2. Place the sample(s) on a paper towel on the outer edge of the rotating tray. The paper towel helps remove the condensed moisture that is drawn out from under wood.

3. If more than one sample is being dried ensure that none of the samples touch each other as touching parts concentrate the energy and could cause smoking or fire.

4. Set the microwave to a low or medium heat. A low setting means the test takes longer but there is much lower risk of spoiling the job due to fire. If the wood starts to smoke it is damaged and you will need to start again with a new sample.

5. If the sample is already partially dried, e.g., about 18% MC or below, cook the wood for between three to five minutes.

6. If the wood is green (about 28% MC) heat it for between 10 and 15 minutes.

7. Weigh the sample(s) again.

8. Dry the wood once more for a minute or less.

9. Re-weigh.

Continue the last two steps until there is no significant weight change, i.e., less than 0.1 of a gramme, assuming your scales are accurate enough. The less accurate your scales, the less accurate will be your results.

The following cautions should observed:

Do not use high power settings. The internal heat built up in the wood needs to dissipate and high settings can cause rapid heat build up, smoke and even fire.

The more wood being tested in one go, the more time will be required to complete the job.

Kiln dried wood samples will perform differently in the oven than green or air dried samples. It’s easier not to mix samples of very different moisture contents during the test, but this can be done if you proceed with care.

Being sure that the wood sample(s) is, or are, truly dry (i.e., at a constant lowest measurable weight after several cycles) requires patience and careful weighing using accurate scales. It’s better, and safer, to use several short cycles in the oven at low settings than it is to try and rush the job by using a higher setting for an extended time. The latter strategy can all too easily result in the wood smoking, charring and possibly a fire.

If you are working with a sample that weighed approximately 100- 125 grammes at the beginning of the process, oven dry means that there is less than 0.1 gramme change in weight between weighings.

These last warnings probably seem obvious, but they’re worth repeating. Removing cooked wood from the oven requires care. It can be hot and will burn. Use an oven glove or gloves. Also be aware that unbeknownst to you, the wood may be charred on the inside. It can smoulder and burn, and could set fire to rubbish in bins, etc.. Disposal needs to be done carefully-- dousing the sample(s) with water before disposal is not a bad idea.
 
Hi Richard--got a question.

Just how does oven drying a sample help one to determine how long to airdry their boards? I was going to ask this of SON...and so if either of you know, I would appreciate it.

Now, that asked, I do microwave dry small blanks, something used at the size of the oven. But I do not know a way to extrapolate that info to a board or a stack of boards like the OP has.

Thank you, Mike
 
It doesn't help at all Mike. It only tells you how wet the wood is/was at a particular time.

Air drying is helped or hindered by various factors. An enclosed shed with no air movement will hinder drying-- in fact this may hinder drying so much that the wood doesn't dry fast enough and can develop mould, particularly one of the dry rots which can get going most easily.

A shed open at either end so that natural air can pass through speeds drying. There are also systems for forced air drying. Basically a shed with fans set up to ensure air is always moving across the wood. Some can go as far as including dehumidifiers and fans that reverse every hour, or perhaps every 4 or 12 hours.

There are people that set up stacks of wood in the open air with no protection for the sides and ends of the stack and no protection for the top. They accept the fact that the top boards will suffer sun and surcace checking and there will be more end splitting. But they do save by not having to have a shed to protect their wood.

The only thing that's likely to be the case is that freshly felled and planked up wood is normally something above FSP which is about 28%, and the MC of the heartwood is likely to be between ~35% to about 60%.

So the only thing you can do with air drying is sticker up the wood in whatever conditions you've got and monitor the pile. Some driers will go to breaking down the pile and restickering in a different order to encourage even drying. Some don't bother.

Monitoring of air drying could include a sacrificial board somewhere accessible in the middle of the pile that you can remove, cut a 25mm (1") length out of and oven dry to test for MC. An alternative is a hand held moisture meter. These tend to be a bit iffy over about 20%MC. Commercial driers drive metal spikes into sample planks that they attach electrodes to to get an MC reading of the moisture gradient within the wood.

The old rule of thumb of course is one year drying per 25 mm (1") of thickness. Most planks of wood at 1" thick will dry quicker than this-- probably about 6 months. Here in the UK you'll seldom get wood air dried below 18- 20% MC, which is borderline OK for external furniture. Another 10% or 12% MC needs to be removed before the stuff can be used for internal furniture in modern houses, and that usually means a kilning cycle, or about 2- 3 months of stickering up inside a dry house or workshop, and longer again is required for thicker stuff, sometimes much longer.

I'm not even going to get into all the drying faults that can occur, even with air dried stuff, so that'll just have to do you for now, ha, ha-- ha, ha, ha. It's beer o'clock here, so that's the end of me waffling in forums. Slainte.
 
Back
Top