Modifying my current bench top!

[Dissolve]

I'm just setting up my first home workshop for guitar making and repair purposes and I'm after some advice on modifying my current bench to suit my needs.

I have this Dakota bench from Rutlands;
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/hand-tools/wo ... -workbench

..which is adequate but I need a larger bench area and the top of the bench is warped due to damp/poor storage.. So I need to put a new top on the current one.

My plan is to pull the bench away from the wall and fix it down. then Use the new top to bridge the gap between the bench legs and the wall.

I was wondering what is a recommended material for the new top? I know beech worktop is easily accessible but to get the required depth it will be very costly! so I wanted to know what other people use for the tops of their benches?

Also how would people recommend attaching it to the current top? Anyone recommend gluing over counter sinking bolts or vice versa?

Thanks

 

[MIGNAL]

I have a double layer of 18 mm Birch ply. Just countersunk and screwed down. The idea being that it will give me 4 surfaces and that it would be easy to turn over to a fresh one. That should give me years of service. In fact 5 years later and I've yet to flip one of the boards. I suspect it will outlast me by a long time.

 

[marcros]

i would suggest MDF also. or a solid core fire door. Or both. i would, if possible fix the top to the wall, and to the bench.

if you wanted, you could flatten the warped top, and fix the new top to it- depends on how suitable the height is, but now is a good time to adjust it if it is not ideal as it is.

personally, if using mdf, i would pay the extra and go for moisture resistant stuff. you pays your money, youtakes your choice but it machines better in my limited experience and gives you a bit of protection against damp, should something happen.

 

[Dissolve]

Thanks for the input! I was thinking of using solid hardwood for the longevity/flatness but as money is an issue I'm thinking a Ply/MDF top may be my first option even for the short term..

I'll be fitting one, possibly two record vices to it so I did want/plan to have hardwood jaws that are level with the bench top but I guess that isn't really an issue even if I go with a MDF/Ply top.

You guys reckon Bolt it does as opposed to gluing? I'll be fixing it to the wall definitely anyways and I'll flatten the original top first!

 

[undergroundhunter]

I would personally just laminate 2x4 PSE softwood Paul Sellers style. Its cheap and readily available from any of the sheds (you will have for rummage through and find the decent ones) and it will give plenty of scope for resurfacing further down the line.

Just my opinion.

Matt

 

[MIGNAL]

I would just go with one layer of Ply/MDF, screwed down. Guitar making/repair doesn't normally involve bashing things with a hammer or Mallet. No real need for a thick heavy duty top. I don't really see the need to glue it down either, that will prevent you from flipping the top if you ever need to.

 

[Dissolve]

That's great! thanks. Going with a ply top if only for the moment. Thinking two layers of 18mm will be strong enough to cope with anything I'm likely to throw at it!

Probably just plane the current top flat then countersink wood screws or possible bolts.

Cheers!

 

[vally bar]

Why not just go with one sheet of say 30 mm MDF?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Why not just go with one sheet of say 30 mm MDF?

Ever tried carrying one?

 

[Dissolve]

Why not just go with one sheet of say 30 mm MDF?

Ever tried carrying one?

haha this is very true!

After pricing up MDF/Ply I'm going to go with a beech worktop surface!
Does anyone think a 27mm thick beech worktop will be too thin? Or should I go with the 38mm?

 

[Dissolve]

Why not just go with one sheet of say 30 mm MDF?

Ever tried carrying one?

haha this is very true!

After pricing up MDF/Ply I'm going to go with a beech worktop surface!
Does anyone think a 27mm thick beech worktop will be too thin? Or should I go with the 38mm?

Whilst looking, does anyone feel oak may be stronger/less prone to warping or moving than beech? I've found oadk and beech worktops of the same thicknesses to be roughly the same price.

Thanks

 

[Mister Griffiths]

I have to say I would err on the side of caution and go for the more substantial surface if you can stretch to it...that way if you ever do need to do some more punishing work on it, the option is there.

 

[Gary Morris]

Hi
Would you need to address any damp issues as you mention,
"the top of the bench is warped due to damp/poor storage.. "
It would be a shame to get your new top and have it damaged by damp.


Gary

 

[Dissolve]

Hi
Would you need to address any damp issues as you mention,
"the top of the bench is warped due to damp/poor storage.. "
It would be a shame to get your new top and have it damaged by damp.


Gary

Hi,

This was in the old shed, I have a new fully insulated workshop now o damp will not be an issue! I've gone with a 40mm thick beech top. So I should be fine!