Mock ye not !!

[David C]

Corneel,

As it happens my (used to be £5) Ecliipse guide, does a cracking job on the Stanley or L-N, scrub plane blade camber.

Obviously there are several freehand methods of doing the job, one of which benefits from that develish new invention, The Felt Tip Permanent Marker.

I often wonder why the freehand cultists abuse the guide users? I am not aware of abusing them.

Perhaps this is a relic of the heirarchical superiority of the skilled man over the apprentice? "I can do it but it will be some time before you can."

Guides allow my students, who may be beginners, to work with tools as sharp as mine on day two.

David Charlesworth

 

[dm65]

I too use a guide, to good effect and am not embarrassed to say so

I could spend some time learning to do it freehand but I can spend the time saved by justifying new/prospective purchase's to swmbo instead, thanks ! (I think you get the point - I could do other 'things' with the time)

Now gonna spend some of that time looking to see what this post to Corneel is related too

 

[Jacob]

Corneel,

As it happens my (used to be £5) Ecliipse guide, does a cracking job on the Stanley or L-N, scrub plane blade camber.

Obviously there are several freehand methods of doing the job, one of which benefits from that develish new invention, The Felt Tip Permanent Marker.

I often wonder why the freehand cultists abuse the guide users? I am not aware of abusing them.

You should read your own posts Dave post793405.html#p793405 "misleading drivel". This isn't an isolated incident - you indulge in quite a bit of sarcasm and abuse, not to mention misleading drivel. :lol: :lol: Clearly you aren't aware of it.
It lowers the tone and turns harmless discussions about different methods into bad tempered exchanges. Calling us "cultists" is another example.

....
Guides allow my students, who may be beginners, to work with tools as sharp as mine on day two.

David Charlesworth

Day 2? Thats a bit slow Dave. It takes 10 minutes or so to get the hang of freehand sharpening.

 

[ColeyS1]

Here we go again :lol:

Sent from my GT-I9300

 

[Dangermouse]

Sharpening debates should be BANNED on this forum !!!! :-# [-( [-X #-o ](*,) :evil:

 

[dm65]

Sharpening debates should be BANNED on this forum !!!! :-# [-( [-X #-o ](*,) :evil:

No way - most become highly entertaining, might start one myself ......

 

[j123j]

Corneel,

As it happens my (used to be £5) Ecliipse guide, does a cracking job on the Stanley or L-N, scrub plane blade camber.

Obviously there are several freehand methods of doing the job, one of which benefits from that develish new invention, The Felt Tip Permanent Marker.

I often wonder why the freehand cultists abuse the guide users? I am not aware of abusing them.

You should read your own posts Dave post793405.html#p793405 "misleading drivel". This isn't an isolated incident - you indulge in quite a bit of sarcasm and abuse, not to mention misleading drivel. :lol: :lol: Clearly you aren't aware of it.
It lowers the tone and turns harmless discussions about different methods into bad tempered exchanges. Calling us "cultists" is another example.

....
Guides allow my students, who may be beginners, to work with tools as sharp as mine on day two.

David Charlesworth

Day 2? Thats a bit slow Dave. It takes 10 minutes or so to get the hang of freehand sharpening.

Jacob, man... you need to seek help, really.

 

[Corneel]

Well, lucky you David. My German scrub plane blade isn't so cooperative, which is a pitty because the plane only cost me 1 euro.



Which brings me to my point. A jig limits you in the tools you can use. A well rounded woodworker has plenty of edge tools that can't be sharpened with a jig, so freehand sharpening is an essential skill. We learned in the other thread that the best way to learn this skill is to start with the simple stuff, like chisels and planeblades, practice a lot and get good at it. Then you move on to the more esoteric stuff.

A woodworking course is the ultimate location to learn such an essential skill. No feeble, human natured, excuses (I have no time, I can't do it, it's too difficult, I want to buy nice shiny toys). No, the strong dominant teacher forces you to learn and the student is happy afterwards. And it is not rocket science, half a day should be plenty to get the basics of the skill down. Perfection it is a lifetime endeavour of course, but after half a day you should be able to reliably sharpen a straight edge freehand.

That's why I wrote that a woodworking teacher does a disservice to his students when he learns sharpening with a jig. That's not condesending, that's plain logic.

And like I said also, whatever one does in his freetime is his own business.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Well, lucky you David. My German scrub plane blade isn't so cooperative, which is a pitty because the plane only cost me 1 euro.

Not sure what projection you are using there - I don't recall the knob of the guide touching the stone when I hone my Veritas scrub plane blade.

In any case, it matters not because when using a scrub you don't use the whole width of the blade, only the central portion, so you only need hone part of the curve.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Jacob]

......
In any case, it matters not because when using a scrub you don't use the whole width of the blade, only the central portion, so you only need hone part of the curve.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

Hmm not really. Yes the middle does more work, as with all cambered blades, but you might well use the whole edge on parts of a rough surface. It all needs sharpening.
A cambered scrub is very easy to sharpen freehand, I can't imagine why anyone would want to use a jig here.

 

[Corneel]

The German scrub plane blade is very narrow, it only fits in the chisel position. Projection is for 30 degrees. And I don't use all the width, but I do use more then this. And this is just one example.

 

[MIGNAL]

I think I can safely bring the whole sharpening thing to a definitive conclusion.
If you are highly skilled, don't use a honing guide. However if you are unskilled, a bit of an amateur, then feel free to use as many guides as you wish.

 

[dm65]

I think I can safely bring the whole sharpening thing to a definitive conclusion.
If you are highly skilled, don't use a honing guide. However if you are unskilled, a bit of an amateur, then feel free to use as many guides as you wish.

+1 (but don't spoil the argument)

Just to fan the flames a bit, a guide can be useful to get the original blade angle back as well as just for honing and I'm sure even the pro's like some sort of guide when doing this initial work

 

[ColeyS1]

Wonder if they were onto something with the replaceable tip chisels and disposable plane cutters. Save a heck of a lot of arguing which sharpening method was best

Sent from my GT-I9300

 

[dm65]

Wonder if they were onto something with the replaceable tip chisels and disposable plane cutters. Save a heck of a lot of arguing which sharpening method was best

Sent from my GT-I9300

Hahahahaha - I have a Stanley rb5 from bee and queue - that the sort of thing you mean ?

 

[ColeyS1]

Thats the boy. Check out these little beauties aswell
http://www.m-powertools.com/products/mercpro/mercpro.htm

Sent from my GT-I9300

 

[dm65]

Thats the boy. Check out these little beauties aswell
http://www.m-powertools.com/products/mercpro/mercpro.htm

Sent from my GT-I9300

Sweet - never come across anything like that before !

I wonder if you can resharpen those tips to get your moneys worth :wink:

 

[Paul Chapman]

......
In any case, it matters not because when using a scrub you don't use the whole width of the blade, only the central portion, so you only need hone part of the curve.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

Hmm not really. Yes the middle does more work, as with all cambered blades, but you might well use the whole edge on parts of a rough surface. It all needs sharpening.

Blimey, Jacob, if you can plane with a scrub plane with the whole of the bevel exposed, you must have muscles like Popeye :shock:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Bigdanny]

I hope David C and all who use them realise that Permanent Marker pens have chemicals in them that deteriorate sharpening stones. (hammer)

 

[Scouse]

I'm curious as to how this problem is overcome with an Eclipse type guide; I turned to freehand sharpening a few years ago after I had the same problem with a 2 3/8 inch Stanley blade from a 5 1/2 with a 9 inch camber at 25 degrees, not an extreme blade or camber by any means. I've still got the guide with the wear marks from the stone.

The Veritas mk2 solved the problem, but it was a faff to use and in the end it was easier to learn to sharpen freehand than learn to use that.