Millers Fall No1 Spokeshave

[Alan Smith]

Has anyone got/use a spokeshave like this? I inherited this from my Grandfather sadly the blade and cap were missing. I'd like to make replacements but would like an idea of what the originals looked like. I've scoured the web for info and although there are a good number of images none show clearly what the blade and cap look like. If anyone has one of these I wonder if I might request some photos or even some rough measured sketches. Thanks in advance for any help.

Alan

 

[Philly]

Think Waterhead is the man for this.
Philly

 

[jonbikebod]

Alan,
The blade is like part of a cylinder that passes around the outside and has a bevel on the round edges that the two screws secure it with. The straight edge of this part cylinder is bevelled, this both sharpens the spokeshave and forms part of the ‘sole’. There are a couple of people making reproductions in America, the reproduction blades may well fit. Try highland hardware, they were selling one of the reproductions.
I can take some pics and post them but I am stuck here at work this evening.
It is well worth restoring this ‘shave as the can get in where other shaves are too bulky as well cutting the tightest radius which can also be useful for things like plane and saw handles.
Jon.

 

[Chris Knight]

Alan,
As Philly says, I can help.

See here for photos.

The blade is not easy to sharpen but I found that with the small knife jig, I could present it to my Tormek at the right angle. It is also not the easiest shave in the world to use and you have to develop a feel for it. I found the whole process ultimately worthwhile and I like this shave for its ability to cut quite tight radii. There are other more modern shaes on the market that will do this however and if that's what you want to do, have a look at Woodjoy tools. They are beautifully made and work very well.

To make a curved blade like this will be quite a challenge I feel - ask Newt for advice!

 

[Alan Smith]

Thank you all very much. It's actually much simpler in design than I had imagined. At least all I have to make is a cutter, looks like I'll be firing up the forge at the weekend then!

 

[Alan Smith]

I've done a model of what I think I'm seeing in your photographs, I've assumed (dangerous) a blade material thickness of 1.5mm, would this be about right??

Current thinking is to make up a couple of simple dies and press the part cylinder under the hydraulic press, grind the bevels, harden,temper then final grind and polish.

 

[Racers]

Hi, Alan

I have just checked my Millars Falls No1 and the blade is 2.4mm or 1/10 of an inch thick. How about boring out the centre of a piece of silver steel of the right diameter and then cutting it, I recon you could get 3 blades out of each one. Any one need a spare handle? mine came with a odd ones, so I made two new ones slightly fatter than the originals, so I have one original handle spare.


Pete

 

[Alan Smith]

Poo, 2.4mm is going to take a lot more force to bend. To bore out silver steel I need to start with 20mm dia and bore 17mm for 55mm depth, that's probably more than my current lathe can handle. looks like I may need to compromise here.

 

[bugbear]

I've done a model of what I think I'm seeing in your photographs, I've assumed (dangerous) a blade material thickness of 1.5mm, would this be about right??

Current thinking is to make up a couple of simple dies and press the part cylinder under the hydraulic press, grind the bevels, harden,temper then final grind and polish.

Got more metalworking facilties than most of, do I perceive

BugBear (quite jealous)

 

[Alan Smith]

Bugbear, all my metal working tools/skills came from a need to repair or build woodworking or forestry tools/equipment. Two skills a woodworker can't do without, forging iron and welding steel

 

[jonbikebod]

Alan,
I will see if I can source some 22mm silver steel. I am reasonably confident I can bore it out to 17mm on my lathe but not to a superfine finish. This is important because that inside curve forms one part of the cutting edge. This will need to be done after it has been split and probably by hand.
So If I bore a section of 22mm stock and chamfer the ends, how would you feel about splitting it in two lengthwise, hardening and tempering to make two blades (I can’t easily heat treat at the moment). You could post one half back to me and finish the other yourself?
In making the initial ‘tube’ I have the advantage of an original to use as a pattern of course.
Like Chris, I found the best tool for forming the cutting bevel is a Tormek. The big problem is holding the thing.
Any use?
Jon.

 

[bugbear]

Alan,
I will see if I can source some 22mm silver steel. I am reasonably confident I can bore it out to 17mm on my lathe but not to a superfine finish.

Perhaps you could look up how the model engineering boys polish the inside of their cylinders to get an air-tight piston fit?

BugBear

 

[David C]

Lapping, with an expandable rotating lap of soft metal such as copper. Maybe hardwood, ally or perspex would also do.

I wonder if a replacement blade from the USA maker of the repro, would not be a simpler solution?

David

 

[Racers]

Hi, David

I wonder if a replacement blade from the USA maker of the repro, would not be a simpler solution?

Simpler but not as much fun :wink:

Pete

 

[Alan Smith]

Sorry been away from computer all weekend, roped into gardening, however I did manage to get some workshop time as you will see below.

Jon, kind offer but can you hold fire till I see how my idea works out.

David ( just finished your "Guide to hand tools and methods" thoroughly enjoyed it thanks) as far as I can determine the new reproductions are enlarged versions of the originals, whether this is just the handles or the whole tool is not clear.


I made a start on building the dies and have actually made a blade albeit of mild steel, just to prove the process whilst I wait for the tool steel to arrive from J+L.

This is the mild steel coupon, prebevelled sides to engage screws on shave. This is 4mm steel I think, thicker than will be used for the real thing.

Set up in the dies on the press.

Out the dies and looking good.

Rough bevel ground and fitted to shave. I did have to lap this to fit but I'm not anticipating this problem with the tool steel which will be thinner, plus I'm going to experiment with shims to get a perfect inner diameter.

Next challenge will be heat treating this without distorting the whole shooting match.

 

[bugbear]

Lapping, with an expandable rotating lap of soft metal such as copper. Maybe hardwood, ally or perspex would also do.

You got some experience other than woodworking tucked away, Mr C?

BugBear

 

[jonbikebod]

I am very impressed with that Alan.
You must have a pretty serious press to form that cold.

BB some of us have found more bottomless holes to fill with tools… :twisted:
I can stop buying them anytime of course. :roll:
Jon.

 

[David C]

Alan,

So glad you enjoyed my third book. That cold bending is most impressive!

Bugbear,

Just a little with model engineering, a couple of Stuart Turner steam engine models, and a centre flue marine boiler.

Best wishes,
David

 

[Alan Smith]

Short update for anyone following this thread. The ground flat stock has arrived from J+L so ready to go on that front, stupidly however, whilst visiting family in Scotland at the weekend I slipped and fell on a steep staircase and have fractured my scapula (shoulderblade). So that's me out of action for 4 weeks. Particularly bad as I'm self-employed. Luckily I can still use a mouse and type slowly!

 

[jonbikebod]

Sorry to hear that Alan.
Hope the shoulder blade mends soon, sounds painful.
Jon.