Metabo Planer/Thicknesser Switch Replacement

[BobmanDad]

Hi folks

I bought a used HC260c and have only gotten around to setting it up. I've watched the videos and was raring to go. I had some difficulty getting it started in both planer and thicknesser mode, so I stripped it down and operated each of the safety switches manually. I was able to get it working. However, the chip extraction cover that triggers the third hidden switch is broken and will never trigger the switch. So I decided to do away with the switches altogether.

Okay, that might not be the best thing in the world to do, but it's my choice. The second silly thing I did was disconnect all the wires in the switch box so that I could fit a basic On/Off NVR switch - the silly part was I didn't photograph how all the wires were initially connected as I didn't expect to need to reconnect it.

So now I have one of these http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-li ... nvr-switch

It came with no wiring instructions so I'm a bit lost. I expect I could use the original switch, but bypass the selector barrel.

Would anyone be able to assist me in wiring either of the 2 boxes as a basic NVR Switch?

 

[BobmanDad]

Just to bump this up; would anyone be able to explain how to wire a single phase induction motor to a switch?

There are 5 wires coming from the motor to the switch, one is earth, the other 4 are Brown, Blue, Black and Gray.

 

[blackrodd]

I'm sorry, I can;t help but there are a couple of knowledgeable members on here, hopefully will come along soon for you.
Regards Rodders

 

[BobmanDad]

Update : At this stage I would be happy to even rewire the original switch box if anyone could help?

The NVR is a Kedu JD2 connected to a Kedu ZH-B barrel type selector.

 

[BobmanDad]

Just to bump this up again:

I have attached a photo showing the current wiring setup at the motor side of my Metabo Planer/Thicknesser.

There is no details plate on the motor, but I know it is a 2.2kw Single Phase Induction Motor. It has just one capacitor, which I think is a start capacitor, and it can be seen in the photo.

There are 5 wires coming direct from the motor, Red, White, Blue and 2 x black. The brown and blue wires from the capacitor are connected to the white and blue from the motor respectively.

I'm looking to do away with the wires on the left of the terminal block that go to the switch and wire in a simple on/off NVR switch.

So any help regarding the wiring would be appreciated.

 

[cedarwood]

there is a pic in this posting
planer-thicknesser-won-t-start-assistance-required-t49631.html
that may help but not very clear to see, if I get a chance I will take my switch apart and try and draw a diagram for you

 

[jolly1]

Hi
It would appear 5 connections are start winding
run winding
and thermal overload most probably two blacks, if they go separate terminals.

This maybe the connection diagram, unfortunately it is not that clear.

unfortunately I cannot post links so I have broken it up

www metabo-service com
/manuals/1152732674_xx_2408_Sx_Ax_da_de_el_en_es_fi_fr_hu_it_nl_no_pl_pt_sv_ru_HC%20260%20C,%20Technische%20Produktverbesserung.pdf

 

[BobmanDad]

Many thanks jolly1, but unfortunately there was nothing in those manuals to help.

Also, big thanks to you cedarwood. Alas, I had a good look at that picture before to no avail. If you did get a chance to check your switch it would be much appreciated. And just to make more work for you, it would probably only be of benefit if I could see the wires at the motor side as well.

If it helps any, here is a pic of the type of switch on the planer I have. It seems to be the older type that can't be bought anymore.

 

[jolly1]

Hi in the manual on the left hand side the is an electrical schematic, though pretty blurred and I cannot make out the colour code for the wiring.

Looking at you picture it does not quite gel with how I would connect it.

but here goes

brown (live when switched on) incoming to red would be a common supply to the run and start winding (unusal configuration)
white connects to blue incoming cable return for run winding (neutral connection) loops of to capacitor and connects to blue start winding.

the remaining two are in all probability the thermal over load.

do have access to a an ohm meter ?

 

[BobmanDad]

Thanks jolly1.

I have a multimeter which has an ohm setting.

 

[cedarwood]

Well went out to the shed and as you can see from the pic mine is the newer switch box, anyway hoping the wiring was the same
I removed the four screws (red arrow) and took the box off which then splits apart at the join (yellow arrow) but is riveted together
with tubular rivets that the four screws go through, as there is nothing wrong with my switch I am loath to attempt to remove these
rivets to get inside so not much help I am afraid.

 

[jolly1]

Ok the first test with the machine unplugged

the two black wires with ohmmeter set to ohms test these and report reading

red to white report reading

red to blue on the capacitor

Please ensure the ends of the cable which are not connected are not touching each other or the metal work


I take it the other end of the cable where the switch was nothing is connected.

The unit you bought from axminister could be used but would require some modification wiring.

I take it before you removed the control the unit did work and the motor ran ?

 

[jolly1]

Axminister unit is a wee bit on the small size at 750 / 1500 watt

 

[BobmanDad]

Cedarwood, thanks for trying - def don't want you to mess with a working system.

Jolly1 - thanks for sticking with this. I'm at work now so will perform the tests tonight. There is nothing connected at the switch end at the minute. The original switch seems to work ok, so it can be used again. The initial problem was with one of the sensors so I was looking to bypass the sensors altogether. But I have no issue with using just the switch part if we can get it working.

I'll post the readings later.

 

[jolly1]

No problem if ran before then no problem getting it to run, the problem will be hook up the safety devices.

 

[BobmanDad]

Jolly1

I took a few photos - please see below:

This first one is of the multimetre and shows what I set it to:

I took readings with it set to 200, 2000 & 20k. I don't know if this is the right setting, but this is what I got:

Black to black - 1.2, 001 & 0.00 respectively
Red to white - 2.4, 003 & 0.00 respectively
Red to blue - 5.6, 006 & 0.00 respectively

This photo shows the inside cover of the motor power box:

The following 2 pics show the back of the switch:

I'm looking to bypass the safety devices anyhow, just need on/off.

I hope that helps.

 

[jolly1]

Not quite sure what you mean by Black to black - 1.2, 001 & 0.00 why three readings by from one test ?

looks like the black and black are a thermal cutout, ie if the temp goes to high it would drop out the motor relay.

Here what I would propose for test purposes only

can you wire up a 3 core flex into a 13 amp plug
disconnect the incoming cable
connect the brown to the red where the brown was
connect the blue to the white where the blue was
connect the green and yellow to the earth ie metal work this the conductor that will save your life
insulate all other bare connection with tape

plug in the motor should run. PLEASE NOTE THERE IS NO Thermal protection or over load OR SAFETY devices

the connection on the lid reflection is preventing me fro clearly seeing them

if you like pm me (I think that's the right term with you phone number and I will call you) or I will pm you with mine

 

[jolly1]

I pm'd you with me phone number

 

[BobmanDad]

I can close this now. Thanks to the brilliant Jolly1 I'm up and running.