Metabo HC260M thicknesser alignment issue

[flanajb]

I have a Metabo HC260M thicknesser and it has been a real work horse. I was just reading an article on the inter web on checking alignment of the planer tables and the thicknesser and thought that I would check the machine as I recently noticed the stock was not totally square.

So I set the thickness to 20mm and ran two small pieces through one each side to check the lower table. Seems that there is ~ 0.5mm difference between the 2 sides and I cannot see how you can correct this ?

I have been wanting to upgrade the machine, but I can't afford to do so at the moment.

I am also about to replace the rubber feed roller as that has worn and causes the timber to not feed. If the machine is beyond repair then I may just have to bring the inevitable purchase forward.

Thanks

 

[Harbo]

Are the blades set evenly?

Rod

 

[SurreyHills]

One way to compensate for the difference is to make a sled that fits over the thicknesser bed and make it slope from one side to the other by the 0.5mm.

 

[flanajb]

I will check the blades to make sure they are aligned correctly, but I am pretty conscienous about blade setting. Rather than making a sled, is it no possible to correct the alignment of the lower table ?

 

[flanajb]

I thought I would post just in case any other forumite is also having issues with alignment. I spoke with a techinal chap at Metabo and he explained how to correct the alignment.

The lower bed is lowered and raised on 4 threaded rods. The master rod is turned by the handle, which in turn drives the cog and chain assembly (mounted underneath the table)

He said if you have one side lower than the other, you need to take the chain off the cogs and then rotate both the cogs on the low side one tooth to raise that side of the bed. Once you have done that you can then put the chain back on.

I have not corrected mine yet, but I reckon it will be a fiddly job as all the teeth on the cogs will have to align to the chain, otherwise, the chain will not fit.

If anyone is interested as to whether I do sort the alignment issue out and how I ended up achieving it, then let me know and I will post a full update.

 

[Krysstel]

Yes please, I would definately be interested in seeing how you get on. I have an identical job looming with my Moretens PT.
The manual I have explains the process in a similar manner but is very vague on the subject.

Mark

 

[Digit]

Bin there etc. What bloody annoys me is that I reckon the manufacturer should do it!

Roy.

 

[No skills]

Hopefully when you take the machine apart there will be somewhere to make a reference mark for the tooth placement/alignment so all you have to do is adjust and make sure the new tooth is pointing at your marks before winding the chain back around.

Hopefully...

 

[Digit]

On the Metabo thicknesser the 'master' sprocket is grub screwed to a flat on the shaft, whilst the follower is attached with two screws onto the diameter of the shaft, so that you only need to release the follower then turn the master till the cut is straight then tighten the follower.
This gives infinite adjustment rather than 'level, plus or minus one tooth.'

Roy.

 

[Krysstel]

Just out of interest. How would one go about doing a similar job on a thickness table supported by a single central pillar, like a Jet 260 or 310 for instance ?

Mark

 

[Digit]

Gawd knows! 8)

Roy.

 

[3acre]

Thanks for this i have just set up a workshop at home after a move and my 260 thicknesser is out by about 1mm this has been helpful trying to find an answer was proving fruitless off to the sheds to swear a bit now thanks again =D>

 

[Hemsby]

I have a Metabo HC260M thicknesser and it has been a real work horse. I was just reading an article on the inter web on checking alignment of the planer tables and the thicknesser and thought that I would check the machine as I recently noticed the stock was not totally square.

So I set the thickness to 20mm and ran two small pieces through one each side to check the lower table. Seems that there is ~ 0.5mm difference between the 2 sides and I cannot see how you can correct this ?

I have been wanting to upgrade the machine, but I can't afford to do so at the moment.

I am also about to replace the rubber feed roller as that has worn and causes the timber to not feed. If the machine is beyond repair then I may just have to bring the inevitable purchase forward.

Thanks

Hi had same problem with my Elekra Beckum 260k. Nearly went down the road of fiddling with the screw thread adjustment. Cured my problem quite easily this was my post with solution. uneven-thicknessing-t77492.html

hope it may help you

regards

Keith

 

[Hemsby]

I am sure that your machine is basically the same as mine.

Have re written my process of adjustment, hopefully a bit clearer than my post back in February #-o .

The possibility of the thicknesses table being adrift is not impossible but unlikely

First it is important to check that the blade block is parallel to the thicknesses table preferably accurately with a dti clock, this can be a bit tricky but is possible, if you don’t have one use a piece of planed timber and place it under one end of the cutter block adjust the table up until it just touches the block, then move it across to the other end of the block and carefully slide it under it should just touch the same as the other side, to get a better “feel” you could use a feeler gauge between the wood & blade block. This ensures that the blade block is parallel to the thicknesses table.

Then check that the fixed planer table is parallel to the blade block at each end, again preferably with a dti clock or use a straight edge & feelers if it is not parallel you will need to shim the table to correct this.
Once this is done you can be sure that the fixed planer table & thicknesses table are parallel to each other

Then check that the adjustable planer table is parallel across its width with the fixed table or blade block and shim if necessary.

Finally use straight edge to check the surface of the fixed & adjustable tables along their length to ensure they are not at an angle to each other. (cant think of a better way to describe this op but hope you get the idea :?: )

Now all table surfaces are parallel to each other and in turn also to the blade block.

You can then set the blades correctly to the fixed table and all should be well =D> .

Written down this seems more involved than it really is.

regards
Keith