Melamine lacquer finish

[ian_in_the_midlands]

I keep reading that melamine lacquer is an easy finish.
I have a bottle that have tried many times to finish small turnings without success.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a good tutorial on how to use the stuff?

Thanks.

 

[CHJ]

I keep reading that melamine lacquer is an easy finish..

Forgive me while I mop up me drink.

I'm no expert on it's use but have managed to get to grips with it when needed.

It's a very good and robust finish but I would not consider it's easy to use without a certain amount of practise.
It's quick to skin, so avoid going back over any applied area.
For starters try thinning it down for larger areas and quickly swab the area and then leave well alone until hardened.

Speed of application, and leave alone, did I already say that!!
For small items on the lathe I now use the spray can versions, easier to use as long as you are conversant with the usual problems of runs and/or misting with their use, leave well alone until dried!!
Multiple thin coats are better than thick, but leave to dry thoroughly between coats.

If wishing to burnish surface best to leave for a few days to ensure full depth cure to avoid breaking though hardened skin.

 

[ian_in_the_midlands]

An instructional video on Youtube shows a chap putting on coats in very quick succession. I was going by this.
Maybe I need to leave longer between coats? It does appear to dry very quickly. How long to you leave it?
Although I am putting on loads of thin coats (10), a light sanding and I am through to wood.
I suspect I may be melting off the earlier coats and only really ending up with one?

I only leaving an hour or so before burnishing. I will try a few days.

I have found the spray works well, but I want to avoid the mess of overspray.

I am applying with the lathe off, using white kitchen towel. Is this correct?

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

Are you talking about Rustins plastic coating?

 

[RogerP]

I use Chestnut Melamine for many items.

Apply quickly with a soft brush, don't mess about, aim to get complete coverage in one go.

Don''t fiddle with a missed area - leave overnight and then re-coat.

Often I decant from the original tin into a wide neck jar and then, with small items, I dip them.
Works a dream.

 

[Terry Smart]

I keep reading that melamine lacquer is an easy finish..

Forgive me while I mop up me drink.

Careful Chas, I know how much you like your drink...

Good advice given above apart from the initial stuff obviously given elsewhere that it's an easy finish. It is once you get used to it, but that does take a bit of doing. I always describe it at demos as a finnicky product to get on with.

I hope that doesn't put anyone off, it does give a great finish as others have said, but it takes a bit of getting used to. Keep persevering!

 

[CHJ]

.....I have found the spray works well, but I want to avoid the mess of overspray.

I am applying with the lathe off, using white kitchen towel. Is this correct?

For small items such as Pen sections, light pulls etc. I spray on the lathe with it rotating at slow 50-100 RPM, just watching until it looks an even 'wet'.
Overspray not significant as mist goes straight up the extractor hose. Leave rotating for a few minutes until dry enough to handle.

Otherwise going with the rapid soft brush applied cover as detailed by RogerP is just about the best description I've seen.

If very large area try a 10% thinning to slow the skinning rate.

I would avoid using paper for large areas, any hint of it drying on paper or work piece before you have completed coating is going to end up with torn build-up mess.

As he says Don't fiddle.


Thanks Terry, you waited a long time to pay me back for all the agro I gave you about Melamine finishing when I first started.

 

[Green]

On larger things I spray it on using a little touch up gun then use wet and dry then autosol. Comes up like glass.

 

[ian_in_the_midlands]

I am using the Chestnut Melamine.
Trying now brushing it on.
The application is much thicker than I have done before.
I will let you know how I get on.

 

[CHJ]

The application is much thicker than I have done before.
I will let you know how I get on.

Just as long as you don't get too thick a coat that you produce runs or flow lines you should be fine. Just need a little patience to leave alone until hardened.


Fingers crossed for you here, a useful product in the armoury once you get the hang of it.

 

[ian_in_the_midlands]

I have runs

mrpercysnodgrass mentions Rustins plastic coating.

Is this an alternative that would allow me to get a hard wearing glass finish any easier??

 

[CHJ]

I have runs

Let it cure and cut back with fine wet and dry if severe, if slight you may be able to blend in with burnishing cream or Tripoli.

May well be less obvious when hardened and solvents have dispersed.

Try similar area again with a little thinners added to reduce coating thickness.

 

[ian_in_the_midlands]

At least the coat looks thick enough now to be able to cut it back.
I think I am making progress.

 

[ian_in_the_midlands]

I think I have cracked it.
Not easy to photograph though.
Secret seems to be apply thinned and allow to dry between coats.
Thanks to all who offered help.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I have runs

mrpercysnodgrass mentions Rustins plastic coating.

Is this an alternative that would allow me to get a hard wearing glass finish any easier??

Plastic is quite easy to use, but a word of warning if you try it - no matter how dry it seems, don't put more than three coats on in a day. If you do it tends to go blotchy, as the solvent still in the first layers can't escape and they affect the final finish. I saw a bar counter at the weekend that I did 26 yrs ago - it's worn through at the edges, but the rest is still OK. You can finish it how you like, from flat to high gloss. Give it a go!

 

[CHJ]

I think I have cracked it.
....

Just need to do likewise with a 300mm platter now :twisted:
Took me several months to get to where it stopped spitting its dummy out, even now I can offend it with ease.