Makita guide rails - now with review
- Thread starter Karl
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petermillard
Established Member
The Makita has a lip along one edge that stops their saw tipping over when in 'bevel mode', and this can sometimes get in the way with some of the Festool accessories e.g. parallel guides; but aside from that, apparently, the profile's virtually identical. Fair warning: I've never actually put a Festool saw on a Makita rail, but my local dealers tell me they're compatible, with the minor caveat above.
Why - have you found a cheap deal on the 3 metre Makita rail somewhere?
Pete
Why - have you found a cheap deal on the 3 metre Makita rail somewhere?
Pete
Thanks Pete
I didn't know that Makita did a 3m track?
I've bought the Makita from Axminster - the saw in systainer, two 1400 rails and a bag for £320. I've been giving it a good amount of use over the last couple of days, and i'm pretty impressed. Much better than the DW model which I bought (and sent back) last year.
Makita don't seem to do as many accessories (hardly any, actually), so I was wondering whether things like the Festool T-square, clamps etc. would fit the Makita rails.
Might have a trip down to a Festool dealer to check it out.
Cheers
Karl
I didn't know that Makita did a 3m track?
I've bought the Makita from Axminster - the saw in systainer, two 1400 rails and a bag for £320. I've been giving it a good amount of use over the last couple of days, and i'm pretty impressed. Much better than the DW model which I bought (and sent back) last year.
Makita don't seem to do as many accessories (hardly any, actually), so I was wondering whether things like the Festool T-square, clamps etc. would fit the Makita rails.
Might have a trip down to a Festool dealer to check it out.
Cheers
Karl
petermillard
Established Member
Karl":1ykr2zbv said:
Ah, I see. I'm pretty sure Makita do rail clamps, but only in one size and style, I think. I use the DeWalt T-square with the Festool rails and it works pretty well; as I said earlier, I think the (Mak and Fes) profiles are virtually identical apart from the little lip on the Makita for the anti-tipping thing, so just watch out for anything that needs to bear agains the edge of that side of the rail.
Cheers, Pete
rileytoolworks
Established Member
Karl, how are you finding the saw? Been thinking of getting one for a while now. Any chance of a mini review?
Cheers,
Adam.
Cheers,
Adam.
rileytoolworks
Established Member
Nice one Dude.
OPJ
Established Member
Looking forward to the review, Karl. I've also got my eye on the Makita saw, particularly with the current special offers! :wink:
What didn't you like about the DeWalt?
If I remember rightly, it has two features that the others don't - one for anti-kickback and a profile that allows you to trim the bottoms of doors while they're in-situ... 8)
For what it's worth, I've been told that the DeWalt saw fits perfectly on the Festool rails. Not sure about Makita, though.
What didn't you like about the DeWalt?
If I remember rightly, it has two features that the others don't - one for anti-kickback and a profile that allows you to trim the bottoms of doors while they're in-situ... 8)
For what it's worth, I've been told that the DeWalt saw fits perfectly on the Festool rails. Not sure about Makita, though.
Sorry for the delay in getting this sorted, but i've been busy with work.
Anyway onto my "review"
Makita plunge saw on special offer at Axminster. I'm sure other stores are doing the same deal.
Tech spec - lifted from the Axminster website
Model: SP6000K1
Max Depth of Cut @ 45deg: 39mm
Max Depth of Cut @ 90deg: 55mm
Nett Weight: 4.2kg
Power: 1,300W
Rating: Industrial
Speed: 2,000 - 5,200rpm
Spindle Lock: Yes
Blade Dia/Bore: 165mm/20mm
It comes with a nice 48t blade fitted.
Look ma, no riving knife!
I will be acquiring a rip blade from Cutting Solutions at some point soon (assuming he does the required size).
So what do you get for your money? The saw in a Makita branded Systainer box (which I believe are compatible with the systainers from Festool et al). Two 1.4 metre guide rails, a carry bag and a pair of rail connectors. A lot of gear for the cash, methinks. I see that Axminster are also doing a deal on the Festool TS55 with two guide rails and the connecting bar (but no bag) for £455. £135 extra plus the cost of a bag.
First off, let me qualify anything I put in here by saying that I HAVE NEVER USED THE FESTOOL TS55, so I can't make any direct comparisons. I have, however, used the DW plunge saw. I am reluctant to compare the two as 1) I didn't really get on with the plunge mechanism of the DW and 2) my model was faulty and returned to supplier.
On first firing the saw up, it sounds a little rough - like a cheapo saw from China. I believe that is the electronics controlling the motor - certainly the DW I had sounded the same, and I believe the Festool versions are the same too.
The first nifty feature of this saw is a small stop they have fitted to limit the plunge depth of the saw to a few mm. Why, I hear you ask. Let me show you.
First off, push the button in :roll:
Then, set the saw at the far ned of the workpiece - in this case, a crosscut on some oak veneered MDF.
Switch the saw on, and drag it back along the track. Yes, you are going against the normal direction of cut. But you are only taking a small cut - climb cutting as it is known. Here's the result
Now, pre-set the depth of cut using the nice little depth stop (a simple locking knob)
Remember to retract the depth limiting knob, and plunge a normal saw cut, running forward as usual this time. The result - a beautiful finish both sides of the board
No breakout on either side of the cut. This is great for when both sides of a cut board are going to be seen. If the climb cut technique isn't used, I have noticed that there can be some VERY minimal chipout on the uppermost face of a board, particularly on fragile stuff like MFC. So if both sides of the board are going to be seen, the little depth limiter makes it simple to climb cut.
The pivoting action of this saw is similair to the Festool in that it pivots from one point. The DW rolls forward as it pivots - it feels a bit clumsy/awkward. The Makita is much nicer to use.
Dust extraction is excellent (subject to the caveat below on the extraction mounting). It's hard to put a percentage on the level of dust extracted, so I won't try. I will say that, unless you are just kissing the edge of a board with the blade (in which case I beleive all saws will struggle with extraction), it removes pretty much everything (I used mine with a Fein QA35 extractor).
I haven't tried joining the two rails together. To be honest, from my experience with the DW rails, it isn't a very succesful way of working. Instead, i'm planning on chopping down one of the 1400 rails into two smaller sizes, and buying a 3m rail. I've found a supplier who can do a 3m rail for £106.
Another feature which the saw has is a method of "locking" the saw onto the rail
I'm not really sure how useful this feature is - I think it is more for doing bevel cuts, of which i've not tried.
The rails are much more "sticky" than the DW rails I used.
I haven't had to clamp the rail to anything i've been working on - a good job, seeing as I haven't even bought the clamps yet (which you can get from £17/pr online).
A couple of negatives.
The build isn't upto the DW. It feels a little more plasticky, but is still perfectly acceptable. I haven't handled a Festool, so couldn't compare.
I can see the Systainer box getting easily damaged - the walls of it are pretty thin.
The dust extractor port swivels on its fixing point. This is good in the sense that it should enable the DX hose to automatically move out of the way as it encounters an obstruction (workpiece, rail, table etc). But in practice it doesn't work very well. I would have preferred it to be a tighter fit on it's mount, meaning that you could position the extraction
port at whatever angle you wanted.
I have only had the saw for just under a week now, so I haven't had chance to use of extended use. I haven't tried bevel cutting, but will be doing so tomorrow. All in all, i'm very impressed by what i've seen, and have used it to cut MFC, 40mm laminated worktops, 40mm oak worktops and veneered MDF. For the money, it's highly recommended. 9/10.
If there's anything i've not covered (which i'm sure there is) please shout.
Cheers
Karl
Anyway onto my "review"
Makita plunge saw on special offer at Axminster. I'm sure other stores are doing the same deal.
Tech spec - lifted from the Axminster website
Model: SP6000K1
Max Depth of Cut @ 45deg: 39mm
Max Depth of Cut @ 90deg: 55mm
Nett Weight: 4.2kg
Power: 1,300W
Rating: Industrial
Speed: 2,000 - 5,200rpm
Spindle Lock: Yes
Blade Dia/Bore: 165mm/20mm
It comes with a nice 48t blade fitted.
Look ma, no riving knife!
I will be acquiring a rip blade from Cutting Solutions at some point soon (assuming he does the required size).
So what do you get for your money? The saw in a Makita branded Systainer box (which I believe are compatible with the systainers from Festool et al). Two 1.4 metre guide rails, a carry bag and a pair of rail connectors. A lot of gear for the cash, methinks. I see that Axminster are also doing a deal on the Festool TS55 with two guide rails and the connecting bar (but no bag) for £455. £135 extra plus the cost of a bag.
First off, let me qualify anything I put in here by saying that I HAVE NEVER USED THE FESTOOL TS55, so I can't make any direct comparisons. I have, however, used the DW plunge saw. I am reluctant to compare the two as 1) I didn't really get on with the plunge mechanism of the DW and 2) my model was faulty and returned to supplier.
On first firing the saw up, it sounds a little rough - like a cheapo saw from China. I believe that is the electronics controlling the motor - certainly the DW I had sounded the same, and I believe the Festool versions are the same too.
The first nifty feature of this saw is a small stop they have fitted to limit the plunge depth of the saw to a few mm. Why, I hear you ask. Let me show you.
First off, push the button in :roll:
Then, set the saw at the far ned of the workpiece - in this case, a crosscut on some oak veneered MDF.
Switch the saw on, and drag it back along the track. Yes, you are going against the normal direction of cut. But you are only taking a small cut - climb cutting as it is known. Here's the result
Now, pre-set the depth of cut using the nice little depth stop (a simple locking knob)
Remember to retract the depth limiting knob, and plunge a normal saw cut, running forward as usual this time. The result - a beautiful finish both sides of the board
No breakout on either side of the cut. This is great for when both sides of a cut board are going to be seen. If the climb cut technique isn't used, I have noticed that there can be some VERY minimal chipout on the uppermost face of a board, particularly on fragile stuff like MFC. So if both sides of the board are going to be seen, the little depth limiter makes it simple to climb cut.
The pivoting action of this saw is similair to the Festool in that it pivots from one point. The DW rolls forward as it pivots - it feels a bit clumsy/awkward. The Makita is much nicer to use.
Dust extraction is excellent (subject to the caveat below on the extraction mounting). It's hard to put a percentage on the level of dust extracted, so I won't try. I will say that, unless you are just kissing the edge of a board with the blade (in which case I beleive all saws will struggle with extraction), it removes pretty much everything (I used mine with a Fein QA35 extractor).
I haven't tried joining the two rails together. To be honest, from my experience with the DW rails, it isn't a very succesful way of working. Instead, i'm planning on chopping down one of the 1400 rails into two smaller sizes, and buying a 3m rail. I've found a supplier who can do a 3m rail for £106.
Another feature which the saw has is a method of "locking" the saw onto the rail
I'm not really sure how useful this feature is - I think it is more for doing bevel cuts, of which i've not tried.
The rails are much more "sticky" than the DW rails I used.
I haven't had to clamp the rail to anything i've been working on - a good job, seeing as I haven't even bought the clamps yet (which you can get from £17/pr online).
A couple of negatives.
The build isn't upto the DW. It feels a little more plasticky, but is still perfectly acceptable. I haven't handled a Festool, so couldn't compare.
I can see the Systainer box getting easily damaged - the walls of it are pretty thin.
The dust extractor port swivels on its fixing point. This is good in the sense that it should enable the DX hose to automatically move out of the way as it encounters an obstruction (workpiece, rail, table etc). But in practice it doesn't work very well. I would have preferred it to be a tighter fit on it's mount, meaning that you could position the extraction
port at whatever angle you wanted.
I have only had the saw for just under a week now, so I haven't had chance to use of extended use. I haven't tried bevel cutting, but will be doing so tomorrow. All in all, i'm very impressed by what i've seen, and have used it to cut MFC, 40mm laminated worktops, 40mm oak worktops and veneered MDF. For the money, it's highly recommended. 9/10.
If there's anything i've not covered (which i'm sure there is) please shout.
Cheers
Karl
clewlowm
Established Member
should have bought the festool, makita does look ok. just a bit toy like?
i have abused my festool for 2 years now!
will be interested to see how it perfoms in the long term.
i have abused my festool for 2 years now!
will be interested to see how it perfoms in the long term.
Having not seen the Festool Mike, I can't really compare. But I imagine the Festool to be of better finish quality.
Having said that, i'm very impressed by the performance of the Makita.
Time will tell.
Cheers
Karl
Having said that, i'm very impressed by the performance of the Makita.
Time will tell.
Cheers
Karl
OPJ
Established Member
Thanks for the review, Karl. I think you may have said enough to sway me!
Make no mistake though; Makita stuff is built to last. It may not be "Festool" but we're not talking B&Q's own brand here, either. They've been a trade favourite for years and I see no reason why your saw (among any other Makita tools you may own) shouldn't last you a lifetime.
Make no mistake though; Makita stuff is built to last. It may not be "Festool" but we're not talking B&Q's own brand here, either. They've been a trade favourite for years and I see no reason why your saw (among any other Makita tools you may own) shouldn't last you a lifetime.
peter99
Established Member
I bought the Mafell equivalent. More expensive but a superb bit of kit, better than the festool I would say.
Makita seem to have copied the Mafell pre cut idea by drawing the saw backwards.
The makita looks a good deal at that price. But as the saw will probably last me 15 years I'd rather pay the extra and get the Festool or Mafell. The quality of the mafell is superb and the cuts identical to a table saw. You just know it's going to last and last and that is the only concern I would have with the Makita.
Let us know how you go on. And you'll wonder how you ever managed without it once you use it regularly.
Makita seem to have copied the Mafell pre cut idea by drawing the saw backwards.
The makita looks a good deal at that price. But as the saw will probably last me 15 years I'd rather pay the extra and get the Festool or Mafell. The quality of the mafell is superb and the cuts identical to a table saw. You just know it's going to last and last and that is the only concern I would have with the Makita.
Let us know how you go on. And you'll wonder how you ever managed without it once you use it regularly.
awkwood
Established Member
BE EXTRA CAREFUL IN HARDWOOD
I recently had a serious kick back using a mafell mat55cc for straight line edging waney edge ash. The lack of a riving knife is a big problem in hardwoods when the tension is released. It cut a big bite from my 3 metre guide track but i was ok.
I recently had a serious kick back using a mafell mat55cc for straight line edging waney edge ash. The lack of a riving knife is a big problem in hardwoods when the tension is released. It cut a big bite from my 3 metre guide track but i was ok.
chippy1970
Established Member
awkwood":576jwsay said:
This is one big reason to get the Festool it has a sprung loaded riving knife.
jimmy rivers
Established Member
Great review Karl
How do you find laying it up for a full 1220 cross cut? Bit of a squeeze to get across? (A little more run on with the Festool).
We've been using the Makita pretty much daily for the last couple of months.- very happy so far. Fits the Festool rail fine however it'll cut the chip limiting rubber in a slightly different place. Festool clamps work and it'll clip to the Festool cases as they're identical.
Indeed be extra careful cutting hardwood as awkwood says. The sprung riving knife is a nice feature of the Festool (must be a patent here). This is often mentioned in comparisons however its a panel saw after all. Score cut feature is a winner (nice demo) the rail lock is really handy when you need to let go of the saw mid angle cut / on set up for example. Have yet to use the negative cut. Lighter than the TS55. Blade change not quite as nice as the Festool.
A thumbs up for me. We've plenty of old Makita tools kicking about, so don't expect it to give up any day soon.
We got ours from tooledup on a voucher code via topcash Lawsons do the 3m rail for £90+VAT
How do you find laying it up for a full 1220 cross cut? Bit of a squeeze to get across? (A little more run on with the Festool).
We've been using the Makita pretty much daily for the last couple of months.- very happy so far. Fits the Festool rail fine however it'll cut the chip limiting rubber in a slightly different place. Festool clamps work and it'll clip to the Festool cases as they're identical.
Indeed be extra careful cutting hardwood as awkwood says. The sprung riving knife is a nice feature of the Festool (must be a patent here). This is often mentioned in comparisons however its a panel saw after all. Score cut feature is a winner (nice demo) the rail lock is really handy when you need to let go of the saw mid angle cut / on set up for example. Have yet to use the negative cut. Lighter than the TS55. Blade change not quite as nice as the Festool.
A thumbs up for me. We've plenty of old Makita tools kicking about, so don't expect it to give up any day soon.
We got ours from tooledup on a voucher code via topcash
Lawsons do the 3m rail for £90+VATjimmy rivers":2okemeq6 said:Great review Karl
How do you find laying it up for a full 1220 cross cut? Bit of a squeeze to get across? (A little more run on with the Festool).
We've been using the Makita pretty much daily for the last couple of months.- very happy so far. Fits the Festool rail fine however it'll cut the chip limiting rubber in a slightly different place. Festool clamps work and it'll clip to the Festool cases as they're identical.
Indeed be extra careful cutting hardwood as awkwood says. The sprung riving knife is a nice feature of the Festool (must be a patent here). This is often mentioned in comparisons however its a panel saw after all. Score cut feature is a winner (nice demo) the rail lock is really handy when you need to let go of the saw mid angle cut / on set up for example. Have yet to use the negative cut. Lighter than the TS55. Blade change not quite as nice as the Festool.
A thumbs up for me. We've plenty of old Makita tools kicking about, so don't expect it to give up any day soon.
We got ours from tooledup on a voucher code via topcash
Cheers Jimmy
Glad to hear you're getting on ok with the saw.
Not tried a 4' panel yet. I imagine it's tight - the rails are the same size as the DW versions. I hadn't appreciated that the Festool rails are 1.5m.
Do you know if the Festool router attachment will work on the Makita rails? I've got a job in December which will involve having to create fake tongue and groove panelling. If the router attachment works with the rails (Makita don't make their own), then that'd help out a lot.
I had seen the Lawsons site for the 3m rail - that's where I quoted my price from. They do the clamps as well for £18/pr.
Agreed about the lack of riving knife. But, as you say, in essence, a panel saw. I'll get a rip blade for ripping down the length of solid wood worktops - unlikely to get kickback there.
Cheers
Karl
jimmy rivers
Established Member
Karl":39fdldp5 said:
Not sure on this one I'm afraid, we don't have a Festool router attachment so I'm able to assist.
The Festool rails are 1.4 or at least our ones are. The rail tensioners are further apart on the Makita. So they plop off the end of the rail sooner...(if that makes sense?) :?
It was a pain at first. I've put a little line up reference mark in the rail and all is well now.
Cheers,
Jim
ramp34
Established Member
I have just been given the makita as a gift so havent had a chance to really put it to the test yet, but i am really impressed so far with it. I was going to buy the festool in the future but no need to now. The rep said that the makita rails are compatible with festool.
